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crankwalk question..

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bmx77802

10+ Year Contributor
106
0
Sep 11, 2009
Mukwonago, Wisconsin
what are some signs of crankwalk i can look for without tearing my engine apart? my crankshaft pulley keeps coming loose, and now it apears as if the center bolt that tightens it down it off centered as well as the entire pulley which is casuing a ticking sound. 2 days after this started my trans took a S%^ on me, im still in the process of taking it out. would there be anything i should look for that would tell me that it has something to do with CW?
 
Grab the flywheel pull and push if the whole crank moves back and forth , check flywheel side and pully side if they move back and forth you have crankwalk
 
Grab the flywheel pull and push if the whole crank moves back and forth , check flywheel side and pully side if they move back and forth you have crankwalk

how common is crankwalk on a 6 bolt tho? the guy i bought this car from rebuilt the motor, did a .20 overbore on the motor. could an improper rebuild cause the motor to crankwalk with only 5000 miles on it?
 
it also can be your crank pulley is bad. check to see if there is any cracks or you can see its bent. i would bet its that or the guy had know idea what he was doing

i was planning on pulling it off tomorow, to see if it is warped, bent in any way. and the guy was pretty convincing cause he at least said he was a certified technician at toyota, but as i go deeper and deeper into the engine bay, i'm finding more and more things that are just thrown together good enough to get it running. ahh the joys of owning a dsm :)
 
how common is crankwalk on a 6 bolt tho? the guy i bought this car from rebuilt the motor, did a .20 overbore on the motor. could an improper rebuild cause the motor to crankwalk with only 5000 miles on it?

Dont be surprised, crankwalk happens to all cars, and obviously if YOU REALLY HAVE crankwalk then the engine was not rebuilt right. The only real way to know if you have it is to measure the crank endplay with a dial caliper.
 
Dont be surprised, crankwalk happens to all cars, and obviously if YOU REALLY HAVE crankwalk then the engine was not rebuilt right. The only real way to know if you have it is to measure the crank endplay with a dial caliper.

yes i know that but i read that the 6 bolt motors were practically bulletproof. how do you measure that do you go from the back side of the crank pulley to the engine block? and what should the measurement be if it didnt crank walk?
 
A dial indicator would be better to check it, but you might get a decent reading with a set of calipers. Pry the crank forward or backward and take a measurement between the harmonic balancer and the front cover. Push the crank the other way and take another measurement in the same spot. Do it a few times until you get a repeatable reading. Should be about .009" or less from what I have read about them.
 
A dial indicator would be better to check it, but you might get a decent reading with a set of calipers. Pry the crank forward or backward and take a measurement between the harmonic balancer and the front cover. Push the crank the other way and take another measurement in the same spot. Do it a few times until you get a repeatable reading. Should be about .009" or less from what I have read about them.

alright i guess ill have to "borrow" a dial caliper from my school on monday and test it next week. would the trans. blowing up have anything to do with crankwalk by chance?


UPDATE

took off the crank pulley and heres some pics of whats going on. maybe any ideas on how to see if its warped? should i use a dial caliper on this as well?

front of pulley
<a href="http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/?action=view&current=102_0459.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/102_0459.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

back (notice the wear marks on the outer rim)
<a href="http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/?action=view&current=102_0460.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/102_0460.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

pictures of where pulley sits on motor
<a href="http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/?action=view&current=102_0461.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/102_0461.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<a href="http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/?action=view&current=102_0462.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x157/loveyalongtime13/102_0462.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
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i put the center bolt back in without the pulley on (one that goes into crankshaft) and pushed and pulled on that bolt. i could actually feel the crankshaft move in and out. now correct me if im wrong but you shouldnt be able to feel endplay thats .005 to .009 correct? that much endplay should be in the thousandths or so im guessing.
 
Get a leash, because that crank is walking.

yeah thats what i feared. ill be rebuilding this whole motor and ill be sure to take detailed pics of before, during the build and afterwards to show what went all wrong. as far as i know 6 bolt 4g63's crank walking is almost unheard of.
 
Well, now that I think about it, you might be feeling the bolt in the crank moving ever so slightly. Your rubbing on the timing cover could be from the aftermarket pulley that you are using.

Do you have a Harbor Freight in your area? A cheap dial indicator with magnetic base can be found there. Best and only for sure way to tell if you do have that much movement or not.
 
Well, now that I think about it, you might be feeling the bolt in the crank moving ever so slightly. Your rubbing on the timing cover could be from the aftermarket pulley that you are using.

Do you have a Harbor Freight in your area? A cheap dial indicator with magnetic base can be found there. Best and only for sure way to tell if you do have that much movement or not.

i tightened down the bolt all the way with an impact, and when i push on the bolt, i can hear it knock on the opposite side by the transmission. and when i rest my hand on the harmonic balancer, i can feel it move back and forth.
 
dont mind me im just a noob but you dont have the real harmonic damper pulley on the engine. Isnt that one of those all metal POS pulleys? You can search and you will see those pulleys are bad for the crank.
 
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but you dont have the real harmonic damper on the engine
...what I first noticed-flipping solid pulley for racing "Orthodox Racing Pulley"...not made for street driving..-which will tear up a crank and bearings after awhile due to the insane vibrations that is being made and nothing to help absorb all of those vibrations.

Pulley was rubbing on your timing cover - danged plastic things get warped all the time when they get too hot and will tweak out of shape.

Bet, you're gonna get a short block or a major block teardown, ain't yas?

Sorry on this ... good luck in your find. - DSM
 
...what I first noticed-flipping solid pulley for racing "Orthodox Racing Pulley"...not made for street driving..-which will tear up a crank and bearings after awhile due to the insane vibrations that is being made and nothing to help absorb all of those vibrations.

Pulley was rubbing on your timing cover - danged plastic things get warped all the time when they get too hot and will tweak out of shape.

Bet, you're gonna get a short block or a major block teardown, ain't yas?

Sorry on this ... good luck in your find. - DSM

so should i find a pulley that is a damper as well? and where could i find one of them. the retard that had this car before me put that pos on there. never really thought it could take out the crankshaft and bearings.

...Bet, you're gonna get a short block or a major block teardown, ain't yas?


yes i have plans of running pulling the motor out, doing new pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft. ill be running a 9:1 compression. and i will be oversizing the valves 1 mm. with titanium vavles, springs, etc.
 
so should i find a pulley that is a damper as well?
The stock pulley that comes on 4G63's will do fine since it was manufactured as a harmonic balancer pulley.

I'm sure that others will chime in on other recommendations on aftermarket harmonic balancerpulleys..I just prefer stock since it works just as good and is cheaper. Head to a Mitsu dealer to get you a new one, or to this link below...

http://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Harmonic-Balancers/Eagle/Talon/-/AM-24937672/?utm_source=google_base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=new_google_base_feed


..or similar auto parts store (but not "Autocrapzone")....

-Good luck DSM
 
alright thanks for the help guys. the endplay is .024 so it obviously crank walked. pulling the motor this weekend and it will be a whole new car when its done. planning on doing the 9:1 compression ratio with eagle conn. rods
 
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