cranks for a long time before it starts

[Dream On]

When starting the car now, it takes about 3-4 seconds to start up, but it starts every time...so far. I just installed a bunch of mods (FMIC, 2g mas, 255, AFPR), but I'm pretty sure the reason that this is happening is b/c of the Walbro 255hp pump. When the fitting came loose, we broke the hard line that goes to the pump. So we replaced part of the line with hard line and flared it and what not, but on the other end that connects to the pump, there is high pressure fuel line with SS clamps to the pump. I'm guessing that I'm losing fuel pressure when I shut the car off, but I'm not really sure what to do about it. Here's a sweet MSPaint pic to help visualize.

 

[Dream On]

Another thing I just thought of is that we had to try and seal that plate around where the line comes through. The stock one was tack welded on, but I didn't want to weld on something that was probably covered in fuel. I just used RTV on the top of the plate, but I suppose JB weld would have been better.

 

[Auto RS T]

With the pump assembly out of the car you could solder the line to the plate for a more permanent fix. I had to do this on my car and it is still holding great. I used a small propane torch to do the soldering with. Make sure to get all of the rtv cleaned out beforehand.

Also double check the clamps for tightness and make sure the plate seals well to the top of the tank.

 

[Dream On]

Would normal soldering work? I was afraid that whatever I would put on wouldn't seal, and then fall down into the tank so I put the RTV on the outside (rusted) part. Does keeping the tank sealed off help keep pressure in the lines also or is it just so there are no fuel/fuel vapors escaping?

 

[SpawnedX]

I had a similar problem with my Civic and it seems to take even longer in the cold or when low on fuel. In the end, the pump was just giving out, I replaced the entire pump assembly and never experienced it again.

 

[Dream On]

The pump was brand new though...And in the vfaq it says something about the o-ring leaking (which I didn't use since I couldn't) which would cause the car to take longer to start up. I'm thinking my problem is similar but I'm not sure.

 

[SpawnedX]

All manufacturers make leeway and admit to mechanical malfunction off the assembly line, rule nothing out. I am just speaking from a similar experience of what fixed it from me, it's just something to bare in mind.

 

[Auto RS T]

Adam, I don't think regular soldering would work in this case, but you could always try and see what happens.

It is important for the plate to seal to the tank because of raw fuel and vapor leakage.

This problem sounds like some kind of small leak somewhere in the system. I would chack all AFPR connections and o-rings, teflon your AFPR adjusting screw, and make sure the fuel pump sock is on correctly and that it isn't clogged (I know its brand new).

Keep in mind that you will want to re-wire the pump also.

 

[Dream On]

Pump has been rewired. I didn't teflon the adjusting screw but I will next time I work on the car. All the other ports have been tefloned and nothing appeared to be leaking, but that should help at least. When the car is off, should the fuel pressure gauge be reading pressure? I would imagine so, but mine does not. After driving it, I shut it off and immediately checked the gauge. It was already at 0 when I got out to look at it.

 

[wibblersnatch]

Hey man, I found these for you. Pretty cheap. It would at least get rid of our ghetto engineering.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-Talon-Eclipse-dsm-awd-1g-OEM-fuel-sending-unit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33556QQitemZ130091510199QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eclipse-Talon-Laser-AWD-Fuel-Pump-Assembly-Sending-Unit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQitemZ320094929509QQrdZ1

 

[Dream On]

Hmm, maybe I should just get one of those. I think I still have the o-ring and everything needed for the walbro around somewhere. The first one looks pretty damn dirty though... And notice how the guy didn't put a pic up of the top of the second one. It's probably rusty also.

 

[wibblersnatch]

Well, I took the liberty of calling the dealer. I can get you one for the small price of your 1st born child . Seriously my wholesale price was over 400. Reatil over 500. Freakin crazy. And those were the only 2 on ebay I found.

 

[Mitsu725]

this thread is Awesome, I'm glad im not the only one having this problem, mine started after I installed a -8an Pushlok fuel line setup and used a Golan large billet fuel filter to a stainless -8 line to the fuel rail, but since I have a GST i dont have alot of room in my tank to add a hose, I simply drilled out the stock welded fitting and put in a bulkhead fitting with the bottom cutoff and stepped the inside so the walbro would go inside nicely but I have to admit my fuel cap doesnt seat quite right with that setup I think i need to step the fitting a little farther so the fuel pump doesn't hit the bottom of the tank.

 

[Dream On]

Just to update, I fixed the problem. When I had to replace my broken fuel line at the pump assembly, we put in a new line and used a rubber fuel line to connect to the pump. My dad suggesting flaring the hard line and putting the rubber line over it. We tried but then couldn't get the rubber over it, so I ground it off and we clamped it. I guess I didn't grind away all of the sharp edges and it made a nice gash in the rubber line. Basically, this just let out some of the pressure in the line and sprayed fuel back into the tank and out of the line. I should have never flared the line in the first place...Oh well. It starts like it used to now.

 

[wibblersnatch]

Hooray! Now come down here and fix mine.

 

[shift2drift38]

I'm glad I looked around, and this is not what I wanted to hear. The difference for me is, it was sitting for about 3 weeks. Friend that bought it off me months ago kept snapping wheel studs, and breaking stuff, so he gave it back...no questions asked, of course I was more than willing to take it back free but anyways, I had to jump the battery no problem....it fired right up in about 2 turnovers. The battery died the next day like I knew it would ### it had been drained from the hazards and we recently had a hard freeze . So, I put the new battery in, replace my rear struts, all four tires, replace the fuel filter and change my oil. It had been sitting on 1/4 tank of gas for those 3 weeks and I take the liberty to go dump some lucas fuel injection cleaner (the tiny bottle that treats up to 25 gallons) in it and fill her up with some 91. Ever since this "Tune up" it takes it a good few seconds to start, but DOES start everytime.....Is there a chance that there's too much of that injection cleaner in my gas causing it to take awhile to fire? I plan on burning down to a 1/4 tank again and just filling it back up with no cleaner ever again (cept maybe half that bottle every 10k miles now ...) I know this is a long one and my first post at that but I'm on here every night reading about the needs for turbo and what not ### i'm planning to boost once I snag another motor (Blown or Running, gettin built no matter what and So I have my stock motor to go back to in case I blow my first build ...) Any other possiblites on my start issue would be appreciated. Thanks.

It does turn over very strong, and all of the ignition has been replaced at the same time (Wires, Plugs, Coil Pack 7months ago)