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Correct Vacuum Lines after changing Headgasket

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CheaCheaBoy

15+ Year Contributor
139
1
Nov 25, 2004
Boston, Massachusetts
I just changed my first headgasket.
Some problems I had was breaking 1 of the exhaust manifold studs.
I also snapped 2 bolts inside my turbo. (Any tips on extraction?)
And now are the vacuum lines.
I need to know which ones goes to the Throttle Body, FPR, Intake Manifold, etc.
I tried to color coded to make it easier.
Colors from top to bottom, green, red, yellow, purple, white, puke, aqua, & brown.
Thank You
 

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Why not delete all extra vac lines? Easy to do, less to fail.

Yea thats a real good idea. Makes the engine bay alot easier to work with too.


Why don't you guys answer his questions? Even if he blocked them he would still need to know where the FPR and BOV lines go.

Here is the Factory vacuum digram.

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The first several colors are hard to explain just by looking at your pictures and plus I have a 1g. However by following the diagram you should be able to figure it out.
Agua runs from the driver's side of the intake manifold to the fuel pressure solenoid on the firewall.
Brown runs from the fuel pressure solenoid on t he firewall to the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail.

If you do decide to block off your emissions system, check out this thread for more info.

To extract the broken turbo bolts you can try to drill them out and use an easy out to extract them. It works sometimes, especially for the ones in the head, but the turbo bolts in the turbine housing are very hard and usually very stuck. I've had to take a turbine housing to a machine shop for extraction before. It shouldn't cost more the $15-$30 to have them removed depending on the shop.

Hope this helps!
 
Thank You. 9!'clipseDOHC
I just finished wiring it all back together. I will look into taking some of the vacuum lines out, didn't know it was possible. Another question if you can help me complete my maintenance.

When taking off the head I easily slipped off my timing belt, thinking that I could put it back on with ease. The dowels weren't facing up so I don't know what position the pistons are in. So If I buy the special Miller tool, MD-998738. Will that allow me to loosen the tensioner, slip back the timing belt on, and retighten it? What other solutions do I have? My car is on jacks right now.
 
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