cooling issues

[blkonblkawd]

before i left for deployment my talon was having cooling issues. it would constantly boil over from the over flow tank and over heat. i have replaced the thermostat, radiator cap and cant find any coolant leaks anywhere.i don't think its a blown head gasket as a tell tale sign of a blown head gasket is coolant in the oil, which it didn't have. i know when i get back i have to fix this issue and want a huge head start on it so i don't have to play guessing games when i get back. i know while i am still away i am gonna go ahead and get new radiator hoses, and possibly a new water pump. any help would greatly appreciated thanks.

scott

 

[SpawnedX]

Compression test, find out if it is or isn't an HG before deciding if it is or it isn't. Coolant in the oil and vice versa is a symptom, not a guarantee.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Compression test, find out if it is or isn't an HG before deciding if it is or it isn't. Coolant in the oil and vice versa is a symptom, not a guarantee.

That's exactly right ^^^

You don't want to replace hoses and water pump if that's not your problem. Find out if your head gasket is ok and go from there.

 

[blkonblkawd]

well i got a hold of one of my friends and got him to do a comp. check it was 145 across the board.

That's exactly right ^^^

You don't want to replace hoses and water pump if that's not your problem. Find out if your head gasket is ok and go from there.

^^^^ well the reason behind that is i really don't know how old the hoses and pump are so i wanted to be cautious anyways i have to many radiator hoses blow on me in the past on used cars.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

If it were mine I would do a cooling system pressure test before you take anything apart just to see if you can tell where the problem is. I think you are safe to get the hoses and water pump ahead of time though. Also, how long has it been since the timing belt was done? If you're going to do a water pump you should just plan on doing a timing belt too.

 

[cliffkemp]

I had a similar problem with my car as well. When it was at an idle, it would want to overheat. (had to shut it off at 225 if I was sitting at a drivethru) I found out it was a bad fan. I am not sure if your car has the same issue but, if it overheats when it is at low speed or idling, it could be. Just a guess as you have a similar problem.

I have a seperate gauge from the stock gauge that tells the temp. When the temp is around 200-210 is when the stock gauge is basically pointing vertical. when it hits around 230, it is still not at the stock H but getting close. Hope this helps in giving you an idea as to how hot your car is getting. It may be boiling due to it getting at the H on the stock gauge as that may be close to 260. Hope this helps. I had my fan replaced and stays cool now and I have a 160 thermostat in my car (came with a 160 when I bought it)

Cliff

 

[blkonblkawd]

If it were mine I would do a cooling system pressure test before you take anything apart just to see if you can tell where the problem is. I think you are safe to get the hoses and water pump ahead of time though. Also, how long has it been since the timing belt was done? If you're going to do a water pump you should just plan on doing a timing belt too.

^^^^^ good thinking i almost forgot about that. i don't know when the t-belt was changed and doing a preventative maintenance isn't a bad idea at all. before all that gets changed i will do a cooling system pressure test or see if my friend can do it for me. since you know i am not there . hopefully something comes up that wont be to much of a hassle.

 

[slow gst]

My car was doing the same thing, I'd drive it 3 miles and it would boil over right out of the overflow. I checked my oil and there wasn't any coolant in it so I refused to believe it was my head gasket. After being fed up with not being able to drive it I collected the parts I needed and ended up taking off the head doing the HG and dropping in a ton of other go fast nonsense. The car hasn't overheated since then.

 

[blkonblkawd]

well i am glad i have some friends that i can get to help me out. my friend didn't find any significant leaks but he found some pin hole leaks on the thermostat housing. i am guessing those happened from when i had to change the thermostat.

i honestly don't think the small pin holes would make that much difference. i am guessing theres something lying under neath that i haven't been able to find (or my friends find for that matter)any more ideas would be great

 

[oneslowevo]

is your fans working?

 

[blkonblkawd]

is your fans working?

yes they are, one is wired to be constantly on and the other is wired to come on automatically.

 

[cliffkemp]

I would replace the coolant and replace the thermostat as it may be sticking closed.

I believe you can get one now that, stays open if it fails instead of closed. If the pressure test yields good and your fans are working, the thermostat or water pump (if pressure is not adequate) are the only things left. If anyone can think of anything else....

if the radiator is clogged due to being an original on the car, it would be the last possibility. check the resevoir and see how dirty it is to give you an indication of the engine and radiator. IF it is very dirty, its possible that the radiator/engine will have buildup as well and need a good flush.

 

[blkonblkawd]

I would replace the coolant and replace the thermostat as it may be sticking closed.

I believe you can get one now that, stays open if it fails instead of closed. If the pressure test yields good and your fans are working, the thermostat or water pump (if pressure is not adequate) are the only things left. If anyone can think of anything else....

if the radiator is clogged due to being an original on the car, it would be the last possibility. check the resevoir and see how dirty it is to give you an indication of the engine and radiator. IF it is very dirty, its possible that the radiator/engine will have buildup as well and need a good flush.

^^^ well the radiator is not a original piece its after market, but it looks like the hoses werent replaced when the radiator was replaced. they look pretty old. as for the coolant it probably could use a flush of the whole system. i have been thinking about the the thermostat sticking closed even being new that could be a big possibility. i know when i used to let it sit and run for 45 min. it never would boil over and never saw any leaks.

 

[blkonblkawd]

well i contacted more of my friends and had my car gone over yet again since i am not there to do it. my buddy did and comp test and said cylinder 2 and 3 are the lowest at 125-130psi. so it sounds like my last buddy was just lazy . he also preformed a cooling system pressure test and only found the pinhole leaks on the t-stat housing, but he said the hoses definitely could be changed as one is cracking. the overflow bottle is filled with a bunch of crud. so my next question is would a oem head gasket do the job or should i go with a mls one like whats on there now? it has arp head studs and its only at 25lbs boost, i have heard the oem can take 40psi. could there also be a possibility that when the engine was assembled that the head wasn't torqued down right?

well i am thinking i am gonna purchase the felpro head gasket for my car. then go over the rest.

 

[cliffkemp]

I would go with the ml gasket and do a major flush of the coolant system. if you have a good bit of crud in the resivoir, odds are, you have something similar lingering in your cooling jackets as well. You may not be circulating enough water in the block itself and causing the water to boil when warmed up cause it cannot get out of the block fast enough before it reaches its boiling point. Probably would not hurt to put in a 180 thermostat or lower either and see if that helps any.

If you didnt replace the radiator, might be a chance that it is damaged or something as well. Check it over as well and make sure that most of the fins are in good shape.

 

[blkonblkawd]

i was gonna go with a mls but right now my funds are kinda tight. as i have to many things going on at once, but i was searching and saw that the felpro composite held 40psi with arp studs. i will just go that route as i might get fed up with everything and sell the car and move to an evo, but i want a good weekend car so i doubt that will happen . i am gonna flush everything to the extreme once it is all said and done. i just hate the fact that i got the car with a nice sized fp turbo and it came with a full 2.5" turbo back grrrrrr, dont people know thats like trying to put a marble through a straw. this is my first dsm for my self but i have been around them before and certainly not my first turbo car.

 

[dontfeedphils]

FYI, a 2.5" exhaust is a decent size exhaust for most cars.

 

[blkonblkawd]

FYI, a 2.5" exhaust is a decent size exhaust for most cars.

yeah "most" cars it is good, but not when you have a fp green under your hood. it has been proven that even on a stock turbo for a lot of cars a 3in gives you the best performance. i think the guy was trying to be somewhat not obvious if you will. the exhaust is quiet as can be.

well final thoughts have it i am gonna just go with the the felpro composite it will do what i need it to do until i change everything up thanks for all the help. if you have anymore advice for me please let me hear so i know what else to look forward when i return.