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Cooling intake temps

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soldave

15+ Year Contributor
737
1
Feb 17, 2008
Okinawa, Japan, Asia
As you know, warm weather affects the power on our cars. Higher temperatures lead to more engine knock, and when the MAF detects overly high intake temperatures it tells the ECU to takes a degree or 2 of timing out, slowing you down (I am led to believe). And it doesn't get so much hotter or humid than in Okinawa. At the moment we've got temperatures of about 95F with about 80-90% humidity which is on the warm side! And I reckon it could be affecting my car's performance. Doing some logged testing on Saturday, I was starting the runs with an intake temperature of about 125F, dropping to around 109F at the end of the pass, as recorded by the MAF sensor. I have meth injection which will offer some cooling to the eventual air going into the engine, but that's going to be much higher after being compressed in the turbo.

So I'm looking to try and decrease my intake temps somehow. My engine bay looks like the following:

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Due to the nature of the pipework, I can't move the intake and it's not economically possible for me to get another intake at the moment. I have a very cridely made cold air feed going from the driver's side air grille at the front to the engine bay pas where the resonator box used to be. The only idea I currently have is to make a simple air box which will probably have to curl around my catch can (see below for a closer look). It won't be great though due to the positioning of the air filter.

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Wondered if anyone else had any other ideas for getting cold, or rather cooler, air to the air filter and getting my intake temps down a little. I also thought about the vent on the bonnet that is above the air filter, but not so sure how it can be used.
 
He's trying to get his intake air temps cooler... not his engine temp.

lowering engine temps lowers underhood temps which would lower his intake temps, thats what I was getting at. LOL
 
Not trying to be an ass, but how is an aluminum radiator and water wetter supposed to lower his "under the hood" temps??

Thank you for saying that. I was going to ask the same but assumed I was just overlooking something completely.
 
What I was thinking is that aluminum will disperse heat better, and water wetter is proven to drop coolant temps. When the engine is running at a lower temp, even slightly, it will expel less heat under the hood. For the future I would appreciate it if you would just ask me what my reasons are for posting, and not be an a$$ about it.:rolleyes:
 
What I was thinking is that aluminum will disperse heat better, and water wetter is proven to drop coolant temps. When the engine is running at a lower temp, even slightly, it will expel less heat under the hood. For the future I would appreciate it if you would just ask me what my reasons are for posting, and not be an a$$ about it.:rolleyes:

Not trying to be an ass, but how is an aluminum radiator and water wetter supposed to lower his "under the hood" temps??

Looks like he just asked you how a radiator and Water Wetter would lower engine bay temps. Nothing malicious in there.
 
Well with all things aside, have you noticed a reduction in intake temps? also hows the heatshield coming?
 
Think intake temps have gone down marginally with the cold air feed I'm running. It's not a huge amount but it's something. Haven't had time to get the craft knife and cardboard out yet to ghetto fabricate an air box but might do that tonight.
 
Here's a thought I would put forward. What would you guys think about getting a different intake pipe or modifying mine so that the air filter sits just behind the left hand front grille as you can see it on this picture below:

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My only worry would be a fear of the chance of hydrolocking the engine in heavy rain. I won't get any splash from the tyres and under the car but as I'm driving along in the rain it would but pushed onto the filter. And in Okinawa we do get the odd typhoon or 2 each year.

Any thoughts would be appreciated :)
 
Looking at your first set of pictures it looks like you could relocate your catch can and radiator overflow and just get a 4" forced performance intake and create piping from there to the grille just like some fmic 2g guys do. I wouldn't worry about hydrolocking unless you actually drive through lakes and then let the car sit in them... I think the fears of hydrolocking are extremely overrated.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...reduce-ait-log-info-inside-cai-installed.html

^has some information on fixing your problem in a 2g, I've never actually seen an early evo in real life but from your pictures it looks like you can cut sheet metal in about the same places and have it work just fine. If you really really worry about water issues then just keep a ratchet or screwdriver around so you can quickly move the filter from your side grille to inside again in the case of ongoing sever weather.

In the meantime if you want to use your current setup more efficiently pick up an intercooler cowl like the ones from 2g eclipses or anything that will fit around your grille and mount it backwards so that it tapers down to your cold air tube and forces air into your engine bay better. Secure it firmly with black duct tape or silicone.
 
I know you explained already why you cant (for now) relocate your air filter position, but thats one of the first things id do if i were in your case. Actually, i had the same problem with the VR4. Didnt want to relocate the battery (where your catch can sits) to the trunk but was forced to because even with my meth system installed, you are right, the cooling effect comes later than we would want it to be.

After that, i think your best bet is to change to a larger intercooler. there are a lot of ebay cores out there that can do a better job in cooling vs. your current intercooler. Besides, it looks like you have plenty of room in your front bumper to install a bigger intercooler.

lastly, do an airbox to isolate your filter from the engine bay heat. Check out what i did. A DIY thingy inspired by ideas from this board. put some insulation inside the airbox for a cleaner install. I also cut a hole under where the filter sits and have a hose duct, from front bumper to air filter, sucking in cooler air when cruising.

That did a lot of help for me. I live here in the Philippines so same humidity temps as you (even higher sometimes).

hope this helps.
 

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Thanks for the advice guys. I know I'm going to have to something with this intake in the future, as I'm making enough power to really need the cold air coming in now.

chrisb33 - the intercooler I have on there is a new Treadstone one rated at 700hp so am sure that's not going to be a big problem at the moment. The location of the air filter is though. An air box would be easy to make so I've just got to either get or fabricate some sort of new intake along with a cowl for the cold air tube.
 
An update or 2 on this one. On Saturday, I was lucky enough to acquire a Forced Performance intake and so was able to replace the HKS Racing Suction intake that was on my car. Have not done a full run but it has got to offer better airflow due to having less bends and a wider pipe (even though a big reducer was needed for the turbo inlet).

And then tonight I have redefined the term "ghetto fabulous" with a cold air isolation box that I have made from the filter. It cost me a total of $3 and it looks like it cost me about that too! Nothing says "class" like cheap black plastic and some duck tape! But I think it will do the job for now until I get some sheet metal. And I've got the cold air pipe from under the car going into that enclosed area so it should be getting a decent supply of cold air now while being kept relatively isolated from the engine bay. I know plastic doesn't repel heat so well, but it will do for now.

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It actually looks good! and since you used plastic, thats even better! now if you can seal that box even more that would be even better!

were you able to log your intake temps? any significant decrease?

chris b
 
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