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Coolant pressure problem...

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jjgrizz73

15+ Year Contributor
816
1
Feb 17, 2007
Carbondale, Pennsylvania
Hey guys, need some opinions on this. Last year I had some overheating problems so during the winter I changed the thermostat(gates), hoses, Rad, fans, and cap. The problem I'm having is that when I fill the coolant up properly and fill the tank to the fill line and take it out it pours the coolant on the ground. The more I beat on it the more it pours out. After the level is down instead of draining back into the tank it just blows it all the way out of the tank too onto the ground. I dont get it, no coolant in oil and no white smoke out the back. Any ideas? :confused:

Edit: did install cometic head gasket with ARP's months before all this started happening
 
it sounds like a head gasket, when you changed your HD dead you surface the head and you made sure its clean and machined ??? did you use a spray to seal it properly ?????

it looks like you are pushing coolant , do a compression test ot leak down test to make sure.
 
Hey guys, need some opinions on this. Last year I had some overheating problems so during the winter I changed the thermostat(gates), hoses, Rad, fans, and cap. The problem I'm having is that when I fill the coolant up properly and fill the tank to the fill line and take it out it pours the coolant on the ground. The more I beat on it the more it pours out. After the level is down instead of draining back into the tank it just blows it all the way out of the tank too onto the ground. I dont get it, no coolant in oil and no white smoke out the back. Any ideas? :confused:

Edit: did install cometic head gasket with ARP's months before all this started happening

I would check the plugs, do a compression test to make sure you don't have a headgasket problem. Would also check radiator cap and do a leak down test. Radiator could also be stopped up. You could pull it out and get it cleaned for about 40 bucks at a radiator shop. Just trying to give you some ideas.
 
Compression test was done when the motor was installed (after the HG install) and had low compression on cyl. 1 (JDM engine) compression was 180-180-180-140 so I just took it as a bad ring/valve, etc. It didnt act up when I drove it for that amount of time after the install. The radiator is new I gues it could be cleaned out but dont see that being the problem. Like I said I dont see any being burned and def. nothing in the oil, would the HG push it out the coolant tank/cause high pressure and still not burn any out the back?
 
Compression test was done when the motor was installed (after the HG install) and had low compression on cyl. 1 (JDM engine) compression was 180-180-180-140 so I just took it as a bad ring/valve, etc. It didnt act up when I drove it for that amount of time after the install. The radiator is new I gues it could be cleaned out but dont see that being the problem. Like I said I dont see any being burned and def. nothing in the oil, would the HG push it out the coolant tank/cause high pressure and still not burn any out the back?

Yes sometimes that is all it will do. It would push the cylinder pressure into the coolant system. Hows you radiator cap? I coolant leak down will be able to tell also.
 
I replaced the cap trying to solve the problem and it did nothing. Just got one from Advance Auto, it was the advertsied pressure I think 0.9 bar so that shouldn't be the problem...I dont think I bought a different pressure, I'll look tonight maybe I picked out the 15 or 16psi one which should be close to 1.1 or so bar would that cause this big of a ruckus?
 
I drive a 97 talon esi and have had the same problem for a few months now, when the motor gets hot or i drive aggressively it likes to just push it all out and start to overheat. When it started i went through all the same steps you did, including installing a full gasket kit. The head looked to be in good shape and the only thing i havnt checked is compression which i will probably do tomorrow when i get home.
 
Go to your local auto parts store and pick up what they call a 'Block Tester'. You fire up you car with the ball & fluid in place of your rad cap and it tests your cooling system for hydrocarbons; i.e. exhaust getting into your cooling tract. Last time I checked it was under $20. FYI, I had a headgasket go out that never mixed coolant and oil, compression was all perfect; only symptom was bubbling coolant out of the overflow and the occational overheating.

Worth a shot. For what it's worth, I'm a fan of running ARPs with the OEM/Felpro composite gasket just to eliminate the pushing coolant problem. Never had that problem with the composite gasket...it's either blown or it works 100%. I ran a Mitsu MLS for awhile and as a DD it was fine, but at the track around 30psi it would push coolant. I had both the deck & head surfaces machined perfectly flat by the same machinist that I trust completely, and still had issues. Thats why I swear by the composite gaskets.
 
I'll have to try that tester and see if thats whats happening. I really dont feel like doing a head gasket job but if it has to be done I'll have to do it. From that overheating I had once or twice = head warpage?
 
I had a similar problem at the beginning of the year. I overheated (long story) and after it lost coolant and would overheat if I didn't watch the level. It turns out after tearing it down that the head was warped enough to push a miminal amount of coolant. I'd try the 'block tester' but it does sound like a HG issue.
 
I had the same issue you've described and it ended up being the head gasket. One thing we had noticed before is we used a anti freeze bleeder bowl and after we knew it was full there were constant tiny air bubbles coming up. My head did not warp. I only overheated it really bad one time. Once it started to overheat I would pull over and refill.
 
Go to your local auto parts store and pick up what they call a 'Block Tester'. You fire up you car with the ball & fluid in place of your rad cap and it tests your cooling system for hydrocarbons; i.e. exhaust getting into your cooling tract. Last time I checked it was under $20. FYI, I had a headgasket go out that never mixed coolant and oil, compression was all perfect; only symptom was bubbling coolant out of the overflow and the occational overheating.

Worth a shot. For what it's worth, I'm a fan of running ARPs with the OEM/Felpro composite gasket just to eliminate the pushing coolant problem. Never had that problem with the composite gasket...it's either blown or it works 100%. I ran a Mitsu MLS for awhile and as a DD it was fine, but at the track around 30psi it would push coolant. I had both the deck & head surfaces machined perfectly flat by the same machinist that I trust completely, and still had issues. Thats why I swear by the composite gaskets.

I have tried that stuff several times. It is a blue liquid and is supposed to turn green to yellow if there is a problem. I could never get it to work right, now matter what I tested it on it always changed colors even when I tested a car that ran fine.
 
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