Clutch Release Cylinder Help!!!!!!!!!!!!

[bmob01]

Ok so I just got my new clutch in, everything all bolted back up except the starter and the clutch release cylinder. It seems the release cylinder and the fork are too close together (by about an inch and a half) and wont bolt back onto the tranny! Here are the attached pics, PLEASE HELP THIS IS MY DD AND ITS BEEN OFF THE ROAD FOR A WEEK NOW WITH THIS PROJECT!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

In the second photo that is as far back as the fork will go... I forgot if that is as far as it is supposed to go, please help

**EDIT** Its not the release cylinder, its the Slave cylinder, I made a mistake, but still need help ** *

 

[habitatguy187]

It's a good possibility that the clutch fork is jammed and won't move to the position that it needs to (the left I'm guessing)

I don't have a n/t but I know on my car the fork is supposed to sit near the middle of the "window", yours looks to the right quite a bit. I would pry on it a little to see if it will come un-stuck and if it won't then I'd open the bleeder screw on the slave, compress the slave and make it fit, then close the bleeder screw and push the clutch in. If it is jammed that would probably be the easiest way to unjam it, or you might have to pull the trans again, or it might work just fine once you get it to fit. Good luck whatever happens.

 

[bmob01]

is there a special way to compress the rod? Do I need a special tool to do this and will I need to drain the clutch fluid? Just wondering

 

[habitatguy187]

is there a special way to compress the rod? Do I need a special tool to do this and will I need to drain the clutch fluid? Just wondering

Just open the bleeder valve (nut) on the slave cylinder, you should then be able to compress it by hand. When you do clutch fluid will shoot out of the bleeder valve. Once you get it in where you want it close the bleeder valve and see what happens when you push the pedal in. If you don't have enough travel you might have to bleed the clutch just a few times from letting air in, but if you do it right there shouldn't be much air at all getting into the system.

 

[95'RS-T]

is there a special way to compress the rod? Do I need a special tool to do this and will I need to drain the clutch fluid? Just wondering

You should be able to push it back by hand without opening the bleeder valve, at least I know i can on my car.
Try this, take the slave and rod off the fork and see if you can push the fork left and right by hand. Now see if the tranny bolts back up without the slave on. If it still does not check to make sure you aligned the clutch correctly.

 

[bmob01]

I bolted the tranny up before I tried to bolt the slave on (which it won't go on now because of the gap and position of the fork/rod in the slave). Should have I bolted the slave on before bolting the tranny up? the axles are still out so dropping the tranny (for the 3rd time ) won't be too much of a pain.

 

[95'RS-T]

No you should be able to bolt the slave on after the trans is in. Can you move the fork at all without the slave cylinder? Also this may sound like stupid question but do you have the linkage hooked up yet?

 

[bmob01]

ok this is what I have done since I last posted. Removed the trans, tried pushing the rod in with bleeder open and shot clutch fluid in my face . I tried the bleeder when the tranny was still on the car. I felt as if the clutch and fork weren't the way they were supposed to be. The way I imagine it is that the fork would rest in the middle of the rectangular hole (while you are driving) and when you push the clutch pedal in, the rod pushes the fork all the way to the one side, which applies pressure from the throwout bearing to the pressure plate fingers and disengages the clutch from the transmission spline. For some reason for the life of my I could not get the fork to go to the one side to push the T.O.B. into the pressure plate fingers far enough (though I do realize this require some force, I put all my muscle and body into it and it didn't budge). I know hydraulics can push ridiculous amounts of weight, but does that little rod really push the fork that far? If anyone has complete insight as to how everything works, it would make my trouble shooting very simple. Also I saw on a diagram that there is a retaining clip for the T.O.B., is that true? I did not see one when I took mine off the first time. Plus is the lock washer mod good for the fork at this point? I lubed up the knob the fork rests on but was wondering if the washer would be a good idea. Sorry for the long post and I appreciate all the insightful responses.

*95-RST* I did NOT have the linkage hooked up (I hope you mean shifting linkage). I was in neutral before I began this whole process, if it was a simple movement of that I will slap myself pretty hard in the face *

ALSO, Can anyone with a N/T post a picture of their manual transmission fork and rod from the slave cylinder so I can see where it is when you are pressing your clutch and when you are in gear?

a Picture/video/ distance the fork is from the left/right when the clutch is engaged/disengaged would be enough info for me to fix my problem

 

[95'RS-T]

*95-RST* I did NOT have the linkage hooked up (I hope you mean shifting linkage). I was in neutral before I began this whole process, if it was a simple movement of that I will slap myself pretty hard in the face *

HaHa yeah I meant the shift linkage. Well hey shit happens