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Clutch problems for a 99 Eclipse

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10+ Year Contributor
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Sep 5, 2010
Brewster, New York
So yesterday I found that my clutch wasn't doing anything, and then found that I had no clutch fluid. I added fluid and it was working, but I had to pump the clutch before shifting (Atleast into first) to get it to have enough pressure for some reason. Today I was trying to take off from a hill, and I just rolled back. After a while I just started ####ing around with it, and found that I could shift without using the clutch (Not moving, still stuck on the ####ing hill) and I could stay in gear, let off the clutch, not move, and not stall out. I finally got myself moving somehow, but when I drive the biting point is very low, as in I have to let off almost all the way off before it catches. Then when I drive it shifts badly, and if I accelerate more, my RPM quickly go up but my speed either stays the same or increases very slowly, and I smell something burning.. I've only been driving a manual for a few days, and I admit I ride the clutch a little when taking off, but I've never done it to keep myself still on an incline or anything, and don't think I could've done this much damage in just a few days. Is my friction plate worn down, or is there something else wrong?

How much would it cost to have the friction plate replaced? Should I just get a new clutch all together?
 
I doubt that you've personally messed it up in those few days. My guess is its probly a stock clutch and in need of a new clutch/flywheel. If your into doing things like this yourself here is a step by step guide for you here. Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

Now I think before you go and replace the clutch, it wouldnt hurt just to bleed it first just to see if that will help or fix your problem. That can be seen here >> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/213503-how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html

Now if your goin to replace everything, I called mitsubishi a couple months ago for a new flywheel and clutch assembly and they told me aprox 300 dollars. If you dont get a new flywheel I would recommend getting it resurfaced.
 
With what you've described you need a new clutch but since your RPM's are going up quickly and your speed doesn't change much, first try adjusting the clutch. For me, it turned out I needed a new clutch then adjusted it after I got it changed but here's the link from Jack's Transmissions (jackstransmissions.com) Tech Articles to properly adjust it.

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

Also, as he points out in the video, these clutches are "self-adjusting". So if it's not adjusted correctly and you do adjust it, the next day or two it might be off again as the fluid moves through the system so you will have to adjust it two or three times over the span of a couple weeks of driving before it will stay correct.

If that doesn't work, then you most likely need a new clutch kit which comes with a pressure plate, disc, and TOB (throw out bearing). And DEFINITELY get your flywheel resurfaced (unless you want to pay for a new one and surface it). You want to do this anytime you install a new clutch.
 
I don't have the resources or knowledge to do anything myself really, bleeding the clutch is a stretch. If I wanted to have a mechanic look at it, would they have to remove the engine and transmission to get to the clutch? What would it cost if they did/didn't?
 
For a clutch replacement, It's usually around 600-700 or so at a clutch shop. I would call around to find the best price if i was you.

Or you can bite the bullet, Buy a clutch, A FSM, Jack and jackstands and some hand tools from autozone and just do it yourself. This way you can save a ton of money and gain knowledge that will be extremely helpful in the future.
 
Yes to have a shop do it will be a lot more money. But you also want to get it installed correctly so you don't have to replace your clutch... or worse your transmission... soon down the road again due to incorrect installation. I don't know about non-turbos (assumed due to "N/A" next to car owned) but looking at the tutorials and information, you have to align the transmission just right or you're going to have problems.

I had a local friend of a friend who has done it before on DSM's do it and when he pulled the tranny, almost half of all those little pins that go around the inside of the clutch pressure plate fell out everywhere. He said it was due to an improperly installed TOB which was also shot. Disc was pretty much perfect.

I am one of those guys who wants to know everything there is about his car and do all his own work to save money and the experience, but with something like this, without the knowledge or help with someone who knows what they're doing, I left it to a professional.

Your call though.

The above adjustment is easy though and any novice can do it. Since you've bled the clutch you know where the slave cylinder is already under the car.
 
go with the adjusting first.... couple questions...... does it feel really stiff at the top? does it have a really hard "spot" in the swing of the clutch?(half way down or so) does the clutch let out right at the top? those can help us help u better.
 
go with the adjusting first.... couple questions...... does it feel really stiff at the top? does it have a really hard "spot" in the swing of the clutch?(half way down or so) does the clutch let out right at the top? those can help us help u better.

Just found this post, after I already started my own.
My clutch engages near the top of the pedal. Is that a definite sign my clutch needs to be changed? I just bought the car, and don't know too much about clutches.
 
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