Clutch Problem....help!!!!! (asap)

[TurboBlue]

i just put a new clutch in my car because the old one wasnt releasing causing the gears to grind thus being very difficult to drive. I figured the pressure plate was worn and yeah...so after the new clutch and pressure plate it still isnt releasing. When i push the pedal, the fork moves to the end of its travel, but gears still grind. But....if someone just pry's on the end of the fork with a pry bar, it falls into gear effortlessly...so im thinking maybe the master is old, and the fluid is just pushing past the seals. The slave is new, everything is bled, the master rod in the back of the pedal is all the way out and i even put in a 1/4" longer slave rod. Im stuck, and did i mention i need to drive the car 500 miles to CT on saturday to move back home from school. I need help fast...sorry for the long post

 

[OnABudget]

make sure you bleed the new slave by unscrewing the cap or whatever you call that thing when you bleed, then simply move the rod in and out with your hands, that surprisingly gets a lot of air out.
otherwise, the master cylinder can be adjusted where the pedals are above the throttle pedal, i believe, where you can unscrew a nut and then screw the rod so that it is further out--check vfaq.
sorry for how unclear this all may seem,
goodluck

 

[TurboBlue]

yeah the rod by the pedals is all the way out, and the new slave was put in last fall, car has been fine since then, the problem just progressivly showed up

 

[IMMORTALSPYDER]

Try putting some washers in between the slave cylinder and the tranny. It should "shim" it closer to the fork and push it farther out.

If it doesn't work at least it's a quick, easy, cheap try at it.

 

[diambo4life]

Try putting some washers in between the slave cylinder and the tranny. It should "shim" it closer to the fork and push it farther out.

If it doesn't work at least it's a quick, easy, cheap try at it.

That will do the opposite since shimming the SC will move the SC rod away inherently making the problem worse. That's a good method if the clutch was not engaging all the way but his problem is a disengagement problem.

When i push the pedal, the fork moves to the end of its travel, but gears still grind. But....if someone just pry's on the end of the fork with a pry bar, it falls into gear effortlessly

Shim the clutch fork pivot ball to increase the throw of the fork. This is assuming you have the system well bled and you have ZERO leaks at the SC and MC.

 

[TurboBlue]

my problem with shimming it is that the tranny is all bolted back up and i deffinately dont have time right now to take it back down. I have to drive the car 500 miles on sat to go home from school. I tihnk i might have come to the conclusion that my clutch fork might be bent, but i just dont know anymore, it sucks really really bad.

And what you were saying about shmming the slave rod. I did like TSS suggested and made a 1/4" longer slave cylinder rod, you think that maybe it should be longer and the stock length one would help?

 

[Mark S.]

Find a small old unused socket, one small enough that will fit inside the slave cylindar. Pull the slave cyl off, pull the rubber boot and the rod out of the cylindar, stick said socket into the slave cyl, stick the rod into the socket, bolt it back up. You will have to do some adjustment actually using the bolts that hold the slave cyl to the tranny, back the bolts out for less throw (if clutch is slipping because its too tight). Thats the clutch system on the 9th fastest 16g dsm in the world.