2G Clutch pedal adjustment gone wrong?

[chrisman287]

FWD trans if it makes a difference. Busted the clutch line about two weeks ago. Replaced the clutch line, bled it as best I could and was able to move the car around the driveway.

Decided to adjust the clutch pedal by the cruise control switch (pedal was sitting high the switch was backed all the way out and loose) then by the master rod since I couldn’t push the slave in by hand. Watched the videos by jack’s transmisisons and jafro. I adjusted it just to the point where it was able to move slave after being stiff.

It looks like the slave isn’t pushing over enough. I started the car, tried to put it in reverse and it grinded I popped it back into neutral. I didn’t try any other gears.

I’m not sure if the master and slave are OEM or aftermarket. What did I do wrong? Or do I just have to bleed it more?

First picture is with pedal pushed all the way in. Last picture isn’t

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[curt-s]

I assume you pulled the boot on the slave and checked for fluid? Even a minor amount means air can enter the system. Your travel looks pretty good but a millimeter makes a difference and we are all under the assumption your clutch disc and pp is in good condition.

 

[chrisman287]

I assume you pulled the boot on the slave and checked for fluid? Even a minor amount means air can enter the system. Your travel looks pretty good but a millimeter makes a difference and we are all under the assumption your clutch disc and pp is in good condition.

I will check it for fluid I haven’t yet. Clutch and pp are in good condition.

I was thinking to try to bleed it again if the slave is dry behind the boot. Maybe I can push it in and use a pump bleeder to see if there’s more air in there. I also have the fitting off the old line that connects to the master. I cut it off the old line and was thinking to connect it and use the pump bleeder there too.

 

[chrisman287]

Based on these pictures, I believe I have an AWD slave on my FWD trans.

Could this be part of the problem?

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[We're on Boost]

Well, just to take a stab at it, I'm looking at the Exedy part numbers, slave cyl for a 1995 Talon Turbo (your car) which shows Exedy SC589, and a 1991 Talon Turbo (this should be like what your powertrain is?) which doesn't show an Exedy part number.
But Beck/Arnley shows part numbers for both years and the numbers are different.
Dorman also shows part numbers for both years and they are different.
Also, for the 1991 year, Dorman shows 2 choices, one with a 13/16" bore, and one with a 3/4" bore. They show the 13/16" as the one for the FWD.
The 3/4" bore should give you a longer throw on the clutch fork, but I don't know if it works or fits right on the FWD trans.

 

[chrisman287]

Bled the slave again and it looks like it’s pushing over a bit more. Hopefully this is good enough

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[chrisman287]

To update this, bleeding the slave more did help but it ended up not being able to get into gear again. I removed it today and saw it was shot. I found two small tears in the boot which led to a ton of corrosion on the piston. I’m not sure how long this thing was on the car but it didn’t move smoothly in and out at all.

Ended up buying an Aisin brand fwd slave. Installed it and bled it by..

Step 1: Remove the bleeder.
Step 2: Push the slave all the way in and hold it closed.
Step 3: Keep holding it closed and reinstall the bleeder and tighten it down. Step 4. Release the slave and repeat the process two more times. Make sure your reservoir is topped off before repeating.

Also bled the line with a helper the old fashioned way (about 9 times) then a few times with the slave closed with a c-clamp. Adjusted the rod one last time.

Car goes into gear without issue now. I removed the flow reducer from the slave.

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