Clutch options? Best?

[Slightlystoopod]

Hello. I am in need of a new clutch. I have been searching and have looked at a few but a little unsure. I looked around the forums but haven't really found the answer I am looking for. So basically, what clutch are you running and would you recommend it? Or what clutch do you recommend? I am just trying to get some feed back on what to get so I don't make a bad decision.

Car:
1995 eclipse GSX AWD (turbo obviously)
Stock transmission

I am looking for clutch that is able to handle about 400 horsepower and around 350-400 ft/lb torque. Also must be under, let's say, $450.

I have looked at a Competition stage 4-5 clutch and ACT 2600 (have it in my car but was not properly installed by previous owner and burnt out. I got compensation money). Is anyone running either in their car and would recommend it? (I know people run the ACT). What are the best options?

Any feedback will help and please don't bash me, I'm asking a simple question.

Thanks alot to everyone who posts positive feedback

 

[Slightlystoopod]

Sorry for the extra post. Couldn't find the edit in this app, still getting used to it

 

[twicks69]

South bend clutch SS-series pressure plate with TZ-series full face kevlar disk. The pressure plate has a clamping capacity of 2200#, and is very soft pedal feel. The clutch disk is a full face sprung hub unit with kevlar linings on both friction surfaces. It is extremely forgiving and lasts a long time, while having no chatter and has very smooth engagement. It will also have minimal wear characteristics on your pressure plate and flywheel friction surfaces. Be sure you run a new or resurfaced flywheel with it. If you want the clutch to break in faster, media blast the flywheel friction surface and ask the vendor to have SBC media blast the pressure plate friction surface. The cost of this clutch is also within your budget. Be sure to purchase a new Mitsubishi OEM TOB, and inspect your clutch fork and pivot ball for wear so don't have disengagement issues after the clutch is in and the clutch hydraulics are bled and adjusted. The SBC TOB isn't bad by any means, but I prefer to use the OEM Mitsubishi one at all times for reliability.

 

[rommel rojasgsx]

thats a competition stage 3 or some clutch after 3k miles, im now using act 2900, very happy with it so far .

 

[jdxnc]

South bend clutch SS-series pressure plate with TZ-series full face kevlar disk. The pressure plate has a clamping capacity of 2200#, and is very soft pedal feel. The clutch disk is a full face sprung hub unit with kevlar linings on both friction surfaces. It is extremely forgiving and lasts a long time, while having no chatter and has very smooth engagement. It will also have minimal wear characteristics on your pressure plate and flywheel friction surfaces. Be sure you run a new or resurfaced flywheel with it. If you want the clutch to break in faster, media blast the flywheel friction surface and ask the vendor to have SBC media blast the pressure plate friction surface. The cost of this clutch is also within your budget. Be sure to purchase a new Mitsubishi OEM TOB, and inspect your clutch fork and pivot ball for wear so don't have disengagement issues after the clutch is in and the clutch hydraulics are bled and adjusted. The SBC TOB isn't bad by any means, but I prefer to use the OEM Mitsubishi one at all times for reliability.

+1.

I've used this clutch for the last year, 100+ launches on it and over 10k miles. Only issue I've had is slipping it too much off the line and getting it hot will cause it to slip, but you just have to do a little normal driving around using the clutch like normal and it comes right back to how it was before.

 

[TSIfreek]

Competition clutch or South bend

If you do get a kevlar clutch make sure you break it in easy for 600- 800 miles

 

[dexterholland04]

I have had two friends have hub springs come out of their ACT clutch disks. If you want to have an awesome clutch, I would go with South Bend like a few others have said before. Depending on what you want out of your car, it's all the clutch you will probably need! Be sure to buy a stainless clutch line, and also make sure that you check up on your master and slave cylinders. It's just good practice.

 

[Slightlystoopod]

Thanks for all the feedback. I have tried looking at southbend clutches but I couldn't find a dsm one. Is there a specific part name or does our clutch match the Audi 1.8 or VW Golf? Would those clutches fit or is there a specific dsm clutch that I am missing?

 

[agentorange313]

you gotta look harder, or better

Import cars at the top > scroll down to catalog > mitsubishi or eagle > model

oh and those a flywheels not clutches that you see that are for the VW and audi

You could always call them and take the trouble of finding the right one out of the equation.

 

[blizz99]

http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi SBC Clutch Parts Main.html

There you go

 

[TSITurbo95]

I am a fan of the XTD Stage 4 Unsprung clutches. Has over 20k miles, plenty of launches, and daily driving, still holding 430awhp fine. And for $160 shipped, you can't beat it.

 

[blizz99]

To the OP,

I would stay with SB TZ or XTD stage 4 UNSPRUNG. Both have been tested with minimal complaints. All you gotta do is figure if you want a full face disk or puck.