Clutch not returning to top. Everything new.

[Silverspyder]

Hey all. New slave, master, SS clutch line and clutch pedal assembly rebuilt/welded by shep.

Before the clutch assembly rebuild, my clutch sprung back to the top when released no problem. Now since reinstalling the assembly, it comes up and stops about an inch from where i have it set (pics included). I can pull it the rest of the way up by hand. Any idea what would suddenly be causing this? Yes, I bled the clutch lines too.

The pics show where I have it set (just barely touching the rubber stopper) and where it stops when I depress it to the floor and release it (about an inch away from the stopper). Also included pics of the master cylinder pushrod before and after depressing clutch.

I'm at a loss.

-Ryan

 

[razrman8]

Hey Ryan. Alrighty, form my understanding, you have replaced this all, but have you PROPERLY bled your clutch system? If you could describe your process as to how you bled your clutch system it would be a great addition of information to this thread. It is very possible that there may still be air bubbles in your system. Also, what brand of master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc. did you buy/use?

 

[Sebba]

I agree with the bleeding being the possible culprit. What method did you use?

 

[thomcasey]

Loose clutch pivot bolt. Ge a deep 14MM socket and put it into the tube that the clutch pedal rotates on. Pull the pedal all the way up and crank on the nut until it is super tight.

This is a common issue in these cars. If it doesn't fix it, then you will need to remove it and have it welded, or will need to buy a new one that is already fixed from Shep racing.

 

[Silverspyder]

Loose clutch pivot bolt. Ge a deep 14MM socket and put it into the tube that the clutch pedal rotates on. Pull the pedal all the way up and crank on the nut until it is super tight.

This is a common issue in these cars. If it doesn't fix it, then you will need to remove it and have it welded, or will need to buy a new one that is already fixed from Shep racing.

This is a freshly rebuilt unit from Shep. It was welded, rebuilt and now has brass bushings.

To answer the other questions, the slave is OEM, the master is brand new from Autozone (installed right before the clutch pedal assy. and has ZERO miles on it.)

to bleed I have a speed bleeder in the slave. I take multiple approaches. I mostly bleed the system at the slave...I'll crack open the bleeder valve and keep pushing on the clutch fork until there's a steady stream of brake fluid coming out with each push (of course making sure the master is always full), THEN I'll close the valve...build up some pressure at the clutch pedal by pumping it a few times...then I'll crack the bleeder again and begin bleeding by using the clutch pedal several times pulling it up by hand, then forcing it down fairly rapidly...the speed bleeder makes this simple to do by myself as it allows now air to be sucked back into the system...I also have a hose going into a can of brake fluid just in case anyway.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Try bleeding without the speedbleeder. The threads almost always let in air for me when I'm tightening/loosening it.

That is, if the loose pivot bolt isn't your problem.

 

[Silverspyder]

Try bleeding without the speedbleeder. The threads almost always let in air for me when I'm tightening/loosening it.

That is, if the loose pivot bolt isn't your problem.

I was thinking I'd try that tonight. Also, can someone give me details on this "pivot bolt"? Like a diagram or something? Just thinking about where it could be, I'm thinking it's gonna be pretty darn impossible to get a deep socket in there somewhere.

 

[Mark4g63t]

Any update? I am having the same problem with my 2g. I am leaning towards air bubbles still in the line but would appreciate what you found out.
Thanks, Mark

 

[Sebba]

When you pump the slave like that, you're probably sucking air back in.

Let it gravity bleed. Crack it open, let it drip into a pan, and snug it up. That's almost fail proof, unless you have so much air it won't draw fluid out. In which case you need to try something else.

You could try my super speed bleed method. I take about 6 ft of acrylic tubing, whack off a vac line from the IM, stick one end on that and the other on the nipple. Start it up, crack it loose, and wait. When it gets 12" from the IM, snug the nipple and kill the engine. You can't #### that up.