Clutch help before the shootout!

[arcuri21]

Okay so here's the problem.
I did a full 6 bolt swap on my 2g, I went to a QM twin disk with gear drive upgrade with a 6 bolt flywheel obviously. Well anyways I can't seem to get the engagement right after adjusting it every way possible, it seems to be over engaging. I still have a 7 bolt transmission with a new slave and the clutch is properly bled. If anyone has any suggestions to try or anything to set it right before this weekend would be great. Also the master is from factory but the car only has 27k original miles on it.!

 

[koryto2012]

Have you tried adjusting your clutch pedal?

 

[arcuri21]

Yes I mentioned I tried almost every adjustment on the master rod that goes into the peddle

 

[JackM]

I would pull the clutch and look at the disks. I have seen them crack. Also, if someone accidentally let the trans weight hang on the disks before bolting it to the engine, the disks could have been damaged or bent that way too.

If you used the plastic alignment tool, it fits too loosely and doesn't align the 2 disks very well. If you then try to stab the trans and get it through the first disk, but the second disk splines are not in perfect alignment, and the trans is forced in, you just bent and damaged that second disk. I use a spare input shaft to slide in and out of the 2 disks to assure a clean and smooth fit.

I would also check to make sure the pressure plate and floater move freely on the basket and don't hang up. Same with the disks. Make sure they spline to the trans input shaft without issue and move freely.

Is the unit used? If so, I would check the floater and pressure plate for excessive warping.

Disks also have to go on one way, if they are not stacked correctly, you can have issues too.

I had all of these problems with my twin disk. I hate them and never use them anymore. It sucks to have to pull your clutch so often.

 

[arcuri21]

alright jackM lets see if i can stump you here. This is how i got the trans to work before the shootout....I took an OEM pivot ball Un-shimmed it by cutting the hex head under the pivot ball in a complete circle to shave off some of the height of the pivot ball... installed it and the fing thing didnt slip.... I don't get it so now we took it all apart put a billet fork and pivot ball and the clutch fork is NOT in the center in the boot but... does clear the clutch.. and after it was all installed slave and all the slave put about 1mm of pressure onto the PP and the clutch slips now under any load.? do you have any clue at all what this could be???

 

[JackM]

It sounds like something is not set up correctly in the basket. If you assemble the clutch on the bench, where do the fingers sit? If they sit too far out, the clutch can have the symptoms you describe. If they sit too low, they will usually drag or the fingers will hit the disks. I would be willing to bet there is too much clearance and the fingers are sitting way too far out.

When you did the upgrade, what else did you replace? The flywheel, floater or pressure plate could have too much wear and cause your symptoms.

 

[dexterholland04]

It sounds like something is not set up correctly in the basket. If you assemble the clutch on the bench, where do the fingers sit? If they sit too far out, the clutch can have the symptoms you describe. If they sit too low, they will usually drag or the fingers will hit the disks. I would be willing to bet there is too much clearance and the fingers are sitting way too far out.

When you did the upgrade, what else did you replace? The flywheel, floater or pressure plate could have too much wear and cause your symptoms.

Jack, I have seen first-hand the problems that he has been having. We have tried three different QM TC setups on his car, two different flywheels, four different clutch forks (both clearenced OEM and Comp Billet), and three or four different pivot balls (new OEM, modified OEM like Jason described, and billet).

Now, the one clutch setup that we got to work before the shootout was my QM clutch, his flywheel, and Comp billet fork and modified OEM pivot ball). My QM clutch worked fine in my car, using my flywheel, clearenced OEM fork, and new OEM pivot ball. We also have tried using another friend's QM setup in any of the combinations possible and could not get it to work. The clutch fork would almost never have any play in it and/or it would come into contact with the clutch cover. The clutch also slipped a lot like it was partially engaged.

Hopefully you can set us straight, but I am 99.999999% sure that we did everything by the book. Including adjusting the pedal assembly as per your video, and the car has a new OEM master and slave with a hard-line connecting them. The only semi-plausible explaination I can come up with is that somehow the crank flange is slightly out of tolerance (thicker) and is pushing the flywheel/clutch out into the bellhousing of the transmission too far. It would also explain why we could modify the pivot ball to thread further into the bellhousing to account for this difference. Definitely a band-aid fix, but we'd like to get to the bottom of this issue...it just shouldn't happen with all of the combinations we have tried!