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clutch drag and no gears after transmission swap

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bowens1414

Proven Member
123
2
Oct 30, 2012
Bradenton, Florida
well i put my new transmission in last night and all day ive been tinkering/adjusting with the clutch. i cant get the car into gear from nuetral while the car is on. lines bled clutch adjusted etc. i think the shift fork hits the bell housing when the clutch is fully depressed. any idea what might be going on. i wanna make sure i skim over the stupid stuff before i drop the tranny again.
 
Had this happen to a friend of mine. He didn't have a transmission jack and was trying to install it by hand. Long story short, he let the transmission hang in the clutch while he tried to juggle it around to slide the rest of the way in. Bent the clutch hub. What we did was let the clutch slip and heat up so it would align with the flywheel again.

Don't know if that was your problem or not, just throwing it out there as a possibility if you're sure everything else is ok.
 
positive it in the right way. did some more checking. my fork isnt really close to making contact with the bell housing. i took that rubber guard off down there to look inside. the TOB makes contact with the pp but then from there it doesnt seem to do much more. i bought a cheap, longer master cylinder because the round bell looking piece on the end of the master rod was bending upon disengagement of the clutch causing the rod to enter the firewall(master cylinder) crooked.
 
How is your clutch fork tension? By that I mean, does it have resistance when the slave is off? Or can you freely move it back and forth from the depressed to non-depressed position freely with no resistance?
 
Okay a few things. Can you put it into gear with the car off? If yes can you start the car in either 1st or reverse? If both of these are yes then did you clean the disk off the ceramic coating before install? I installed a clutch into a 3kgt before and it did the same thing. What happened was the ceramic heated up and would make a bond to the PP which wouldn't allow it to depress. Now the thing is when you drop the tranny the disk can come away from the PP with easy but when its in and heated it wont. A quick trick we did put the car down a long straight road and put it into first and drove straight till red line and pushed the clutch in. That didn't work so we stopped and reversed as fast as it would go and did the same after about 5 times doing this the disk broke free from the PP and could shift all gears normally. If you can try those then I suggest doing so and Ill do my best to follow up on this but Im in afghan right now so my time is limited along with internet.
 
That
Okay a few things. Can you put it into gear with the car off? If yes can you start the car in either 1st or reverse? If both of these are yes then did you clean the disk off the ceramic coating before install? I installed a clutch into a 3kgt before and it did the same thing. What happened was the ceramic heated up and would make a bond to the PP which wouldn't allow it to depress. Now the thing is when you drop the tranny the disk can come away from the PP with easy but when its in and heated it wont. A quick trick we did put the car down a long straight road and put it into first and drove straight till red line and pushed the clutch in. That didn't work so we stopped and reversed as fast as it would go and did the same after about 5 times doing this the disk broke free from the PP and could shift all gears normally. If you can try those then I suggest doing so and Ill do my best to follow up on this but Im in afghan right now so my time is limited along with internet.
that's exactly how it is. Act street sprung disk with act 2600 plate I believe
 
Okay that's exactly what we installed in the 3kgt. If you can clean the street disk with some brake cleaner and wipe it down to take that coating off I hear that it takes care of the problem. If its installed and you don't want to take it apart again then try the forward and reverse technique we did and see how you fare. Its not a sure fire way and some of the mods and OG founders know some better ways as well. Ive seen a couple threads like this that have the answer in it from the guys Im talking about and usually Ill find them and post a link but I have to go for a day or two so sorry I cant help more. Let me know if they do work so I can not consider it a back alley fix and more of a good technique to recommend if necessary.
 
ok well i just got back from a little drive and it was bizarre. did your first and reverse technique and maybe like 2/10 times when i pushed the clutch in the rpms dropped the the car went into neutral. then a few times at a stop i was able to go from neutral straight to 1st. car drove fine otherwise i just rev matched shifting without the clutch to bop around. its driveable but i dont want it to be this difficult.
 
Yeah that's not how its supposed to be after it breaks free. Once it breaks free it like the 3kgt you should be able to shift all gears no problem with the car on and at a dead stop and same goes for driving. Is there anything hitting the shifter link cables on the trans side? Perhaps a line that can be down there getting pinched and not letting them go where they should. Also on the TOB did it still have the metal clip to keep it in place?
 
Damn that sucks. Check out this link and the answer kchazzz put up about how to tell if its bad or not. I had a feeling this may have been a problem but have been searching all routes before admitting defeat so you didn't have to pull it again.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/do-i-need-to-shim-the-pivot-ball-grind-fork.393806/

At the bottom of this page hubazoot seemed to figure it out. Bad valve in the master so I suggest reading his response and checking yours as well.

http://codsm.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-5896.html
 
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