Clutch and other part feedback

[Volition]

Hey Everyone,

I am posting to ask for feedback on the following parts. I am looking to do everything I can while I have the tranny and other parts tore apart and just wanted to ask if anyone can fill in the gaps for me? I have read up on this and still have a few questions...So here we go...

I just bought a 1999 GSX and it is at 150k miles. The clutch is gone (pedal falls to the floor and needs to be pumped to try to engage any gear...more on that later) and I need to do all of the maint/belt/fluid items also. PO couldn't even tell me when the timing belt was last replaced, so I don't think it ever was. So, I am not gonna be driving it until a lot of work is done. I have not tore the car apart yet, so I am unsure how it looks, but as a warm fuzzy I wanted to replace all of the following parts for a piece of mind/future proof as best I can. One last thing, the car is sitting just above stock HP/TQ and I eventually want to get it to the 500-600 AWHP range.

I choose the following parts for the clutch work:

Clutch Disk and Pressure Plate: South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ/B-Series Kevlar/Ceramic Clutch Assembly from TMZ

Clutch Fork: Competition Clutch Forged Steel Clutch Fork from TMZ Performance

Flywheel: Competition Clutch Street Chromoly Steel Flywheel from TMZ

I plan on using an OEM TOB, TOB Clip, OEM Fork Boot, OEM Slave Cyl, OEM Master Cyl, OEM Pivot Ball, and Steel Braided Clutch Line. I also wanted to install the Shift Kit from Mach V during this time. I emailed ShepTrans about a rebuilt Clutch Pedal to hopefully take care of it and reinforce it (couldn't find any info on how to reinforce it other than some vendors sell parts). Also wanted to replace the transmission mounts with a ploy kit at this time if able.

For the Timing Belt I am going to use Extreme PSI's kit and all OEM parts. I am planning on replacing the water pump and all required seals. Just wanted to ask how hard this really is if you keep the engine in the car like I am going to have to do...also, I thought I read that you need to loosen the motor mounts, so would this be a good time to replace the motor mounts with a poly kit? I also need to read up on the BSE, I have read that it is possible to accomplish with the engine in the car but I am unsure on that.

I have a lot of work ahead of me and I am so glad my buddy showed me this site, thanks for any/all input..also, the story on how I got the car is pretty funny (not for me) and I will write it up later so you can all laugh at my pain. Thanks again!

 

[Rock2610d]

Are you sure the clutch is gone? Clutch ped falling to the floor could just be the clutch hydraulic system.

If you had a 95 or 96 model I would also suggest crank walk, because mine did that after 150 thousand miles. It walked pretty good and clutch peddle is 1st sign.

I would recommend pulling engine with transmission, it's easier! Take it from someone who has tried it both ways.

Plus doing all the maintenance is 1000 times easier with motor out.

 

[Volition]

I am pretty sure it is the clutch, you can feel it slipping in all of the gears and especially anything higher than 2nd gear. For what it is worth, I took it to Midas and they confirmed that the clutch needed replacement. I have not yet checked to see if it has crankwalk yet (havn't had any time to work on it since I got it). I have read a lot on what crankwalk is and the theory behind it, but not what it actually sounds like or feels like...I know turning left and feeling the pedal drop is a sign of it, but would the engine run smooth if it did have crankwalk?

 

[Kirkamus]

just an fyi not only 95-96 crankwalk easily. My 97 7bolt thrust bearing walked away from me after 22k miles >.<. Just a heads up if your going for long term 500hp gates timing belt is the way to go.

 

[Rock2610d]

Yours is not a single thrust bearing so its probably not but mine ran from 150K to over 200K with crank walk.

Ran smooth as the first day I bought it. When I tore the engine down because wife overheated motor the thrust surfaces on the crank were gone....and needed a new crank.

 

[WES_393]

I just bought a 1999 GSX and it is at 150k miles. The clutch is gone (pedal falls to the floor and needs to be pumped to try to engage any gear...more on that later)

That's a hydraulic issue, not a clutch issue. Probably a leak in the line going to the slave. If the clutch is slipping then it would still be wise to install a good clutch, but it's not going to fix your issue. The clutch pedal doesn't need to be reinforced either.

As for the timing belt, the stock belt would be just fine. The only time you really need a reinforced Kevlar belt is when using a very heavy valve train (think 280 cams, dual springs, etc) and revving very high. And even then, the stock Kevlar belt for the Evo is much cheaper than an aftermarket colored belt, and every bit as strong.

 

[Rock2610d]

^^^^^Wish I could have said it this well....

Didn't know about the EVO stock Kevlar belt, good info thanks

 

[TX D22A]

I would just go ahead and pull the engine/trans out of the car, especially if you intend to do a balance shaft elimination. Everything you're going to do will be a hundred times easier this way. I say this because I've done almost all of that with the engine still in the car, and I'll never do it that way again. If you have any concerns about crankwalk, while the engine is on a stand is the easiest time to check your thrust clearances.