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clutch accumulator & slave cylinder restrictor mod

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almostquick

20+ Year Contributor
241
2
Feb 17, 2003
Moore, Oklahoma
I've read the write up for 2g's about removing the little restrictor behind the banjo bolt in the slave cylinder for quicker grab and release, is the same true with the 1g, I just put a new slave on and was wondering if it has the same effects as the 2g and weither or not its harmful. thanks in advance...
 
Defiant said:
Same, and yes you can harmlessly remove it.

Not true. There are reasons things like that are in the system.

Here's one: Pedal flyback. Happens when you side step the pedal (whether intentional or accidental.... wet shoe comes to mind) Given the clutch load, pedal ratio and clutch line diamter, the system will allow the pedal to return in designed rate. Removing the restrictor could cause the fluid flow to be too high, increasing interial loads at the pedal. The end result? The pedal damages the internal components of the master cylinder (m/c). Possibly ripping the pushrod out of the m/c piston retainer cup.

Speaking from industry experience with this, I would not advise anyone to do this. Especially with a higher clamp load clutch like a ACT 2100 or 2600.
 
I took a restrictor out of my slave on my 90 and I have realized a much more consistent engagement/disengagement point on my 2600. I was not aware of the dangers at the time I removed it.
 
Morphius said:
Not true. There are reasons things like that are in the system.

Here's one: Pedal flyback. Happens when you side step the pedal (whether intentional or accidental.... wet shoe comes to mind) Given the clutch load, pedal ratio and clutch line diamter, the system will allow the pedal to return in designed rate. Removing the restrictor could cause the fluid flow to be too high, increasing interial loads at the pedal. The end result? The pedal damages the internal components of the master cylinder (m/c). Possibly ripping the pushrod out of the m/c piston retainer cup.

Speaking from industry experience with this, I would not advise anyone to do this. Especially with a higher clamp load clutch like a ACT 2100 or 2600.
Odd that in the fifty-odd makes and models I've fiddled with, this is the only car I've encountered to have such a thing. Then again, I'm still befuddled by that accumulator thing, too.
I try to be careful to not let my foot slide off. I try to be careful not to slide into curbs, too. But accidents happen.
Your information is very interesting. It's the only time I've heard anyone explain the restrictor.

Now then. Tell me about that accumulator.
 
I'm not saying it will fail, but the restrictor is there for a reason. One of three things:
1. As I decribed above, for flow restriction to help with peddle flyback.
2. Reduction in pedal vibration transmitted through the clutch line to the pedal.
3. Reduction in pedal 'moan' or 'hum' when the pedal is acuated.

The accumulator? Is that how it's labeled? I'd venture to say it's an inline hydraulic damper to help with pedal vibration. Again, as stupid as it seems, it is there for a reason.
 
The reason it is there is the 2G was designed to take all the feel out of the DSM. Thats why it has a tiny turbo that builds boost right away to feel more like a V6 than a turbo 4, and the clutch pedal accumulator to take the roughness out. Some of us like roughness though. We are the ones with straight 3" exhaust, all stainless lines, no A/C, no cruise, no balance shafts, and poly motor mounts. We are the ones that kick your ass at the track :D

Seriously though, you can eliminate all restrictors and reservoirs in the clutch system. They are just there to make it feel better for 16 year old girls who are not used to driving a performance car.

later
Arnie
 
OWGTI said:
The reason it is there is the 2G was designed to take all the feel out of the DSM. Thats why it has a tiny turbo that builds boost right away to feel more like a V6 than a turbo 4, and the clutch pedal accumulator to take the roughness out. Some of us like roughness though. We are the ones with straight 3" exhaust, all stainless lines, no A/C, no cruise, no balance shafts, and poly motor mounts. We are the ones that kick your ass at the track :D

Seriously though, you can eliminate all restrictors and reservoirs in the clutch system. They are just there to make it feel better for 16 year old girls who are not used to driving a performance car.

later
Arnie

__________________________________________________________________________

I like what your saying so on the same note i think to really appreciate your DSM you should remove your turbo hose and one of the spark plug wires to really appreciate that full civic effect
 
To the people who have done these mods what's your impression?

Please give some feed back. :thumb:

I searched and only found tech articles on how to preform these mods.
 
only difference i felt is in between shifts it seems to grab faster and harder and the clutch pedal seems to come up a little faster.
 
I have new line and no accumlator on my 97 talon. I am just finishing up my engine install with new clutch.
I am wondering if should take out the slave restrictor now.
What are some opinions from guys that have removed it.I assume I can put it back if I dont like it. I plan on street use primarily for my car very occasional track use.
Will taking out the slave restrictor make it too touchy in normal bumper to bumper traffic?
 
I put it back after about ten minutes. Being able to dump the clutch is not something I want or need. Being able to let other people drive my car (without risking driveline parts) is a positive.

- Jtoby
 
leave it in.
i took mine out and was able to dump the clutch and now it is parked with a blown center diff.:cry: (but 5500) @ the track was cool
 
You are saying you can't dump the clutch with it in? Or does it affect how fast the car can be shifted? I popped it out but can put it back easy enough.I am maybe a bit worried about breaking my center diff and was just going to take it easy on the car this season and install 4 spider with tre or shep trans likely next year.
So this restrictor really makes it that much more likely to break things?
 
If you pull it out, when you dump the clutch, it will engage a lot quicker than with the restrictor in place. A broken center diff will be the least of your worries with the increased amount of shock going through the entire drivetrain when you make a launch.

FWIW, you really shouldn't be dumping when you take it to the track. Let it slip, then let it rip.
 
Please post if you have taken out the slave restrictor in the 2g slave. and if you have broken more parts and your power level ,etc.

Is this a good or bad mod. Want to hear from guys with actual experience not just theory or the factory put it in it must be great. The factory did lots of dumb stuff and makes lots of bad parts.
 
Ive been running mine with no restrictor for years. I cant say anything has broke that I have tracked down to that. I drive my car pretty hard and slip the clutch very fast and no problems yet.
 
I didn't bother taking out the restrictor, but I used the braided stainless line that went from the master to the slave, eliminating the resevoir. I haven't had any problems yet.
 
I have the stainless line with no accumlator. Now want to take out restrictor hate how it slows things down on engagement. I want it gone .I won't dump my clutch I know better than that . So cmon lets here from some big power guys that have removed it and not broken stuff.
 
I removed the restrictor from the slave cylinder on both of my 1G's. I haven't broken anything since doing it, although the bearings are a little noisy.

I like the quicker engagement when shifting gears. When the restrictor was still in I couldn't really bang the gears when racing. Now I can get the windshield wipers to come on when I nail a quick shift.
 
I've got it done to mine, I have absolutely no complaints & highly recommend it.
 
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