click noise???

[dcshoeco1041]

I have this noise coming from what i believe to be the front wheels. It only occurs when i am at a stop, then i accelerate again. When i accelerate slowly its 2 clicks, sounds like something is about to break. Anyone have any clue as to what this could be???

 

[mikelv]

This could be caused by a number of things ranging from suspension components, drivetrain, or brake components. Below I'll list the places where to start and the best way to check them out for yourself, or in case to take it somewhere you'll have a better way of understanding them.

Suspension related components:

Front Lower Control Arms (Straight and Curved): Our cars have four lower control arms in the suspension section with two on each side. The control arms (one curved, one straight) consist of a stabilized ball joint and suspension rubber bushing. If you look up under the car, you'll see them both that bolt into the wheel hub, and sub frame of the car. If you have worn ball joints this can be a very dangerous situation. What will happen is if the ball joint fractures, the entire tire will de-stabilize and fold right up into the wheel; causing you to lose complete control of the car. Mitsubishi has issued a recall of the lower control arms, and below I have linked you to ball joint recall information. Two unfortunate notes here, 1: If you have already done the recall they won't do it again. Read the information in the link, they'll explain it to you. And, 2: unlike the 1st Generation DSM, the lower ball joints are not a separate replacement. You must purchase the entire arm. If you find someone who tells you they found the lower ball joints separate for the 2G at AutoZone, NAPA, ect...they're lying to you. Only the upper joints are replaceable.

Tie Rod Assembly: The tie rod assembly on our cars controls the motion of the wheel laterally, (steering) by connecting the wheel hub to the steering rack. The tie rod is broken down into two assemblies, consisting of an inner and outer rod. The outer rod has a ball joint connecting to the hub and is more commonly worn due to it's susceptibility to adverse weather conditions. If you tear that boot over the ball joint, the grease can run dry and now you've got problems. You lose a tie rod, you lose steering, bottom line.

Upper Ball Joints and A-Arm: Fortunately, we can replace these joints without having to replace the whole arm, which usually isn't the case.

Sway Bar/ Stabilizer Bar: Anti-sway bars are used along with shock absorbers or struts to give a moving automobile additional stability. An anti-sway bar is a metal rod that spans the entire axle and effectively joins each side of the suspension together. When the suspension at one wheel moves up and down, the anti-sway bar transfers movement to the other wheel. This creates a more level ride and reduces vehicle sway. In particular, it combats the roll of a car on its suspension as it corners. The stabilizer bar is attached to both lower control arms and is also secured to the frame with bushings. These bushings should be checked for damage, deterioration, or looseness.

Drivetrain Components:

The biggest thing here for you to check with an N/A car which is only FWD would be the drive axles. Your best bet here is to visually inspect the CV Axle boots for tears, leaks, and security. Just make sure the axle isn't loose or have excess slop in/out from the transmission.

Brakes: Ensure you visually inspect all the related components in the front drive wheels. Check for brake pad wear, and caliper function. Tell tale sign of brake problems come from metal to metal contact. Worn pads, warped rotors, ect. Look for burrs in the rotor where the caliper piston has been forced on by worn pads.

Checking the system:

What you need to do is get the car up on a rack and take a look. If you have a local craft shop or access to a lift, take this route. It's best because you can get the car up to eye level and stand right under there safely and get a view of what's going on. If you can't just make sure you get the car safely up on jack stands, and take a peek. Visually inspect all the suspension components for worn bushings, torn boots, or broken/loose bolts. Check your control arm boots, tie rod boots, and axle boots. Check for leaking fluids or grease. Grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and push in and out. Make sure you don't have any play. Rotate the wheel and try and simulate the "clicking" condition you claim, and see if you can narrow it down.

Below is a couple of links to help you out some. There is a great suspension tech article on here, as well as others. Also, try and describe in better detail what's going on, and once you get up under the car, let us know what you see. Good Luck!

Links:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...es/44577-steering-suspension-information.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...4783-2g-upper-ball-joint-change-35-bucks.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/165284-grinding-noise-front-suspension.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...14096-replacing-torn-ball-joint-boots-2g.html

HowStuffWorks "Car Brake Systems Channel"

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-lower-lateral-control-arm-recall-merged.html

 

[dcshoeco1041]

thanx dude awesome info right there! im taking my car to my mechanic so we can see whats up. I dont want to be driving and loose control of the vehicle!!

 

[mikelv]

no problem man, thats what we're here for.
Be safe and let us know how it turns out.

Do forget to recommend some rep points homie.