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Cheapest way to seal off a VRSF Fmic to the Condenser to the radiator?

Posted by Norcalgsx707, Aug 14, 2013

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  1. Norcalgsx707

    Norcalgsx707 Proven Member

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    So I was looking around and I was thinking that plastic sheeting and racer tape would probably be the cheapest, my goal is to bring down the temp by 15-20 degrees. I am running around 226-230 while cruising.
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    automatic · 2G DSM
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  2. gsexxx

    gsexxx Proven Member

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    Do you have both fans in? And are they activated to always on? Also do you have your exhaust/dp wrapped?
     
  3. PieEyedPiper

    PieEyedPiper DSM Wiseman

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    For some reason I found this topic kinda funny.

    I suppose, in ascending order of cost:
    1. tape
    2. cardboard
    3. sheet metal

    As mentioned though, make sure everything else is in order first so that you don't end up covering up any existing issues (other than the large hunk of metal blocking airflow). And yes, that includes things like heatshields for the exhaust manifold, etc.

    Have you cut out the mustache or chopped into the crash beam at all?

    p.s. I live surprisingly close to you. It's been hot.
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  4. Mark4g63t

    Mark4g63t Proven Member

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    What do you mean seal it off? If you block airflow to the condenser you're blocking it to the radiator and will increase temps. If you're having high coolant temps make sure you have all the air out of your system. If you really need to you can remove your AC thus removing your condenser and allowing quite a bit more of air to reach the radiator. Shouldn't have to tho.
     

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    1995 Eagle Talon TSi
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  5. Ghost_92TSi

    Ghost_92TSi Proven Member

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  6. gsexxx

    gsexxx Proven Member

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    As stated above make sure there is no air in the coolant system, if there is it would cause high coolant temps. Did you cut the black piece out of the bumper when you installed the fmic? If not, cutting that out and letting more air pass through will lower temps a bit.

    p.s. Hi Mark :)
     
  7. Norcalgsx707

    Norcalgsx707 Proven Member

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    So is putting the heatshileds back on good or bad? im in the middle of reinstalling them and how much sheet metal do you think I will need?
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
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  8. Ghost_92TSi

    Ghost_92TSi Proven Member

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    Heatshields are good!
     

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  9. gsexxx

    gsexxx Proven Member

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    Yes they are good. They will keep exhaust temps down, thus most likely lowering intake and coolant temps at the same time. Win win win.
     
  10. Mark4g63t

    Mark4g63t Proven Member

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    looks like a waste. Sounds like air in the system or a dirty/ clogged condenser or radiator. Heat wrap your down pipe and make sure your fans are working correctly. Can also add heat shields to manifold and o2 housing.
     

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  11. Afizzle

    Afizzle Proven Member

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    I got a big piece of cardboard, got under the car and pressed it from the bumper to the frame just under the radiator. It took a couple tries but eventually I had a good outline of the dimensions I needed on a piece of cardboard.

    Then I got the old factory air duct that used to sit in the mouth before I had a fmic. I got the top I think, cut if off the bottom half and turned it upside down. It fit almost perfectly after trimming it to match the cardboard. I punched holes every 3-4 inches and zip tied it to various spots on the bumper and the frame. You have to make little slits in it here and there to relieve tension and let it lay down.

    By no means is it perfect but it did cover the huge hole where most of your air is dumping coming out of the fmic. It also took me about 30 min and was free. Still holds strong to this day.
     

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  12. DJ Raydiate

    DJ Raydiate Proven Member

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  13. Norcalgsx707

    Norcalgsx707 Proven Member

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    Thats what I thought I just installed them I have yet to go on a test drive but idle went down about 4 degrees hopefully it does the same when I cruise

    You have a picture for future reference ?

    so theres a huge gap between my FMIC and my condenser does that angle need to be covered to go along with the sides and underneath the car as well?
     

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  14. performance

    performance Proven Member

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    I was thinking about a similar idea. I've seen people do an aluminum (for lack of a better word) "scoop" attached to the bottom of the radiator bracket area to increase airflow to the condensor/radiator.
     

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    1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
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  15. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

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    All I did to fix my fmic heat issues was to make a small sheet metal scoop, and mount it to the bottom of the radiator support. It scoops air from under the car, directs it behind the fmic, and into the ac/radiator.
    I also live in Phoenix az and it regularly gets 115+ here.
     

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  16. Norcalgsx707

    Norcalgsx707 Proven Member

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    I still have a running hot issue LOL I tried changine the Thermostat, I filled in the gaps I can't really see what else I can do car just ran at 229 degrees
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    automatic · 2G DSM
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  17. Breezio69

    Breezio69 Proven Member

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    What temp thermostat did you switch to? A lot of people think switching to a lower temp thermostat helps in times like these, all it does is let it go into open loop faster, thus not allowing coolant to properly cool down in the radiator. If I'm cruising and I catch my gauge at the right moment I can tell when the rush of coolant that came from the radiator... umm... comes from the radiator to the motor, the gauge drops 5-10 deg then will slowly rise again. This is with a stock temp thermostat, rarely on days breaking 100* do my temps see above 205*. Usually, on a day 95* and below does it break even 200*.

    I'd suggest testing the first thermostat with a pot of boiling water. If that checks out and its the right temp one, put it back in and do a flush and fill with 50% pre diluted coolant and 50% distilled water.... since you probably don't have to worry much about snow or freezing temps, this should be fine year round. If you are where it snows??? Then later in the season flush again and run straight pre diluted coolant.

    Other areas after this are obviously a clog in the system, bad water pump, bad thermostat, air in the system.

    I have both fans wired constant on, a plumbers pipe insulation between intercooler and front rad support, and same stuff between the headlights behind the bumper. I also fabbed up two small scoops that take air from the fog light holes and divert it into the area between the intercooler and rad. No heat shields or wrap with a 16g and 3" thermal running out of the bay.

    Hope that was descriptive enough.
     

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  18. My1GLaser

    My1GLaser Proven Member

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    I run 80% water & 20% coolant but I rarely see freezing temps and I park it in the garage. I also run 2 bottles of Redline water wetter.

    What fans are you running? What radiator?

    I switched to a fluidyne radiator and got rid of my cheapo slim fans and bought Spal. Noticeable airflow difference!
     

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  19. Norcalgsx707

    Norcalgsx707 Proven Member

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    I dont have mine quite as blocked off as yours I have plumbers pipe insulator between the FMIC and the condenser and I bought a new thermostat (170 degree). I tested my old one along side another working 3000gt vr4 thermostat the 3000gt on opened up at around 170-180 the eclipse one didn't i left it in there till it was boiling and nothing, should i just pull the radiator and flush it out?

    Stock fans and radiator no water wetter yet
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013

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  20. Breezio69

    Breezio69 Proven Member

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    Yeah you can pull it if you want, its simple enough on these cars. I've done it in the car on a few others that were a task to pull the radiator. Just use the upper and lower rad hoses. Put the lower one draining out and shove a hose in the upper. Its pretty straight forward.

    I'd usually either flush with a gallon of distilled water after or let it kind of air dry for a bit. To get the "tap water" out. But I'm sure the miniscule amounts that are left inside don't matter too much?

    Also, without a search I am not 100%, but isn't factory temp for the therm 190*? Once you hit 170* on your temps all that's happening is coolant flowing as fast as the pump pushes it through the motor and radiator. Its doing nothing to cool down other than being in the radiator a few seconds. This will cause temps to creep up.
     

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  21. Norcalgsx707

    Norcalgsx707 Proven Member

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    I believe its 180* and I see wht your saying it will just cause more work on the water pump ect causing the heat to creep, also I pulled the radiator its pretty rusted inside I ran some tap water and dish soap through it theres small chunks of rust comming exiting out through the lower hose. I went ahead and bought some radiator flush should I get siome weather stripping for the gaps between the Rad/Condenser? and am I missing anything should I do anything else to get this gunk out?
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    automatic · 2G DSM
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  22. ricktb

    ricktb Proven Member

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    do you have a photo? would this somehow reduce flow through the fmic itself? Im concerned once I install my Fmic i'll have overheating issues
     

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  23. Norcalgsx707

    Norcalgsx707 Proven Member

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    what he said Donniek post some pics ?:pray:

    How bad is it over heating RICKB



    And just to throw this out there I have the radiato out I've been flushing it looks like my cooling system has alot of rust in it but most of it seems to be in the radiator small flake like chunks are coming out of it while flushing water through it
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013

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  24. PieEyedPiper

    PieEyedPiper DSM Wiseman

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  25. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

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    The cheap slim fans are garbage, and that includes fals. My spal fans are the only fan I've used that works as good, or better than stock. I also have a fluidyne radiator. I'm probably the only person in the phoenix area with a 4"thick fmic, and working ac. When it's almost 120* out, ac is really nice to have.

    That is exactly what I did.
     

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