changing springs need help asap please

[2gGst98]

I am putting my koni gc set up in my car and their are two diffrent size springs a thicker spring and a thinner spring. the thicker one has a bigger diamiter also. My question is whitch one is the front spring and whitch is the back. I think the bigger one is the front and the thinner one is the back. I saw a pic online and the thinner one looked like was the front. but I need to finish today.

 

[snowborder714]

Do the springs say anything on them, like a number? If there is, this can be used to determine where they go since the higher rated spring goes in the front.

 

[2gGst98]

ok thank you their is a number on them. also I cant figure out how to mount the springs on the shock everything is seperate. is their instructions anywhere on how to put the springs on the shocks?

ok one has a number 180.64.75 and the other one sais 0700.250.0300.0

 

[snowborder714]

Is there no number like 11k or 650 on the springs? I was only able to find the first number showing it's an Eibach spring.

Maybe put up some pictures of what you're working with, as that'll be easier. But you pretty much take the shock, put the spring on, then put the upper hat on (in a very boiled down form).

 

[2gGst98]

they do say ebach on them then one has ebach 303193 then the other sais ebach306504.

 

[snowborder714]

Those numbers don't help either. Picture time, if possible

 

[2gGst98]

ok pic is comming. but with all the spacers and bushings their is a gole washer that has a bigger hole the everthing else so it just jiggles around. We cant seem to figure out how to put the springs on the shocks. meaning how all the bushings and washers are put in which order

ok i dont n o how to insert a pic

 

[nitroazz]

mine eibach's are prokit and for an awd so the numbers will not match but

my rear's are 6015.002 123776
my fronts are 6015.001 125393

you kit should be 6014.140 and the numbers on the springs should be 6014.001 and 6014.002

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Should be the parts that you need to do the tops. As long as you have all that you should be good to go.


It should be:

1. strut with threaded rod upwards
2. compress spring onto strut
3. place the bushing part on the threaded rod ( bump stop)
4. put the spring rubber top on the top of the setup.
5. place the metal strut tower mount on top
6. place washer over threaded rod
7. screw on the nut
8. uncompress spring
9. install.

If you are having problems still, let me know and I'll walk you through it.
I am doing it in my head on the fly but that should be the way it is.
There maybe a dust shield/sleeve that'll need to be installed before the bump stop is put in

 

[2gGst98]

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did this work

and with the bushings is their a website that shows how to put it together


I had to buy a strut mount kit also. I will take a pick of all the bushings I have. But do you see the brass washer in the pic. where does that go nothing I have with the kit has something that stops it from moving around.

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this is what I have. is their another thing you have to order with the gc springs? cause I just dont think I have everything. But I dont no. is their someone that has this set up that can send a pick or it put together?

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ok I think we figured it out how to set it up. can anyone comferm. also does anyone no witch is the front and witch is the rear?

please I am close I can feel it

I do appreciate the help so far

can any one tell me if this is how to set it up

 

[nitroazz]

The thicker spring should be harder to compress with your hands and that would make it the front one. iirc.

Also, the strut mounts with three bolts on top are the front ones and the two bolt ones are the rear ones.

 

[2gGst98]

that is not at all what I ment with the mounts I no the three are the front and I did find out the front from the rear. but now the question is. is the way I set it up is that correct? I no that is the front mount but that is all I had apart to take the pic of. the rear is the same just 2 bolts I no. the shocks and springs I took off had alot more parts. and I got the mount kit that came with bushings and what not. Is their bushings that I wont use with a stock mount kit, with the GC's?

 

[nitroazz]

Yes, use their parts with their setup. If you do not, you will most likely void any warranty that they offer with their product.

 

[2gGst98]

ok guys i dont no why I am not getting feed back. but now the rear ones are not mounting up propperly it looks like it is too small. alot of people told me to buy this set up and now it seems like no one wants to help. I read that I have to buy a spring helper is that just for the rear or the front also. the front dont need it, it seems. But for how many people told me to buy this set up help me out man. I am getting mad at my car and this web site. I have searched for 2 days I needed to get this done yester day but now it might take alot more time. I just want to say thanks alot for what seems like no help. I have read alot of post's about this and nothing tells me how to set them up or if their was anything I didnt order that I shuld have.

 

[ktgurl87]

I found this...

| Repair Guides | Front Suspension | Macpherson Strut | AutoZone.com

It looks like you might be missing your dust cover and bump stop? This is an exploded view of a front strut OE replacement.. but assemby should be similar for what you've got. Hope this helps. Don't get discouraged

Edit: Ok scroll down and you will see the picture i'm talking about. Figure 16. And you can enlarge it if you need to

 

[jtmcinder]

ok one has a number 180.64.75 and the other one sais 0700.250.0300.0

The 700.250.300 is a 7"-long, 2.5"-diameter, 300# spring and it goes in the rear. It will need a helper spring or you'll get some seriously nasty noises when it unloads.

The 180.64.75 is a non-constant-diameter, one-end-not-flat spring (aka semi-conventional spring). I hope it's the right one for your car, but I don't know for sure because I always used constants at both ends. A quick search (since metric pwns me) tells me that it's a 425# spring which is a bit soft for the nose of a 2G, but alright. It's supposed to be 7" long, which is a bit short for a 425# in the front, but should work without a helper. Your picture makes it look to be 8" long, which is correct for that rate in the front, but the label says 7" and that particular spring is shipped in lots of GC kits and is 7".

In short: get helpers for the rears and you're all set.

- Jt

ps. if you're confused by the numbering, it's always length, ID, then rate, but the race springs are in English and the conventionals are in metric; because 180mm = 7", they ought to be the same length; maybe the photo is misleading; 7.5 Nm = 425#

 

[2gGst98]

that is what I came to the conclusion of. I do wish I was told that when I was in the market for it. now it is going to take maby 3 weeks to a month to get something done that shuld have been done in 4 hrs.

 

[jtmcinder]

If you all would stop calling the system that I was the first to actually compete with by the name of "the DG set-up," then I'd probably be more forthcoming about the actual parts that are needed.

Yes, when it comes to DG, I really am that petty.

 

[2gGst98]

what size helpers shuld I get I dont have my car to measure. but if I remember corectly I think the backs are likt 2 to 2.5 inches short. I no I need helpers now I just dont no what size. I am seeing a couple of diffrent sizes. I only found 2 threads about this 1 on this website and 1 on another. I am comming up with alot of honda crap and its kinda bugging me. An eclipse isnt a honda I dont understand why honda stuff comes up when I put dsm or eclipse after everthing I type in to google, yahoo, ask, ect.are gc's 4inch width. I think I read that somewhere I cant remember though. I read so much crap yesterday. So now I want to make shure 100 times over that I have every single thing I need.

 

[jtmcinder]

You're 90% of the way to the answer on your own. To get exactly the right helpers, you install the coilovers on the car, set the ride height, and then take the rear coilovers off to see how much slack you have when the shocks fully extend. Then you add a half inch to an inch and place the order. Just winging it (i.e., pulling a number out of my ... er, memory, I'd get 4" helpers. The advantage of having helpers that are too long is that they take up more room when compressed, which keeps the piece that goes between the helper and the main spring from hitting the sleeve as much. The disadvantage is slightly more unsprung weight.

To be clear about the other dimensions, they need to be 2.5" ID helpers and you need the little separator ring that goes between the helper and the main spring.

But if you have time to plan this, you ought to consider a tender spring, instead, if you ever drive on nasty roads or trail-brake hard. A tender spring isn't a near-zero rate like a helper is. A tender spring has a rate about a quarter as high as the main spring and lets the car resettle more gently. It's a way of creating a progressive set-up with two separate springs.

 

[2gGst98]

ok I will look into those. would I still get a 4 in spring? I dont have the time to put them on then try and try to get it right. The shop I am in is being sold and the guy is out of town till midd november. so that is why I needed it to be done yesterday. and now I cant measure and order I just kinda have to order. and pray that it is correct. I can post a pic ofthe rear shock and the gap between the spring and strut mount if needed.

 

[jtmcinder]

If you get a true flat-wire 4" helper, then, as long as you weren't planning to slam the car to the ground, you'll be able to set the rears at a good height and no longer have loose springs at full droop. Just don't forget the ring that goes between the helper and the main. Call GC. They'll know what to sell you.

 

[2gGst98]

Yea I was going to call them tomorrow. But I do have to say alot of the threads that I have posted you have given me the most help. Not that others do not, but some dont read what I am saying and give advise that I already no. But I will call GC tomorrow, and I do appreciate the help man. And no I am not going to drop the car more than an inch.

 

[jtmcinder]

You're welcome. Good luck.

One last thing: since you have Konis, consider asking if they'll swap those front springs for something a bit stiffer. You'd be surprised how much better the car will handle with 600s in the front, instead. Won't hurt the ride quality a bit, too. Ride quality is mostly driven (as it were) by the rears.

 

[2gGst98]

ok I will ask. you said I have 425 rate earlier, It will be a dd I dont want something too stiff. Can I turn the stifness up on the shock?

 

[jtmcinder]

Nope. The adjuster on a Koni is rebound only (as all good single-adjustables should be). But, seriously, upping the fronts to 600 will hardly be noticeable unless and until you take a corner fast, when you'll notice that you still have front grip and you're going to make it. I'm not suggesting 850s (as I would if this were a serious autocrossing car). But, hey, if you're worried, only go to 500 or 550. But every little bit in the front helps, as it keeps the front tires happy and, therefore, able to turn the car.

I know this goes against standard logic - that upping the fronts adds front grip - but it works on a 2G because the car loses too much camber in roll. You need to keep the fronts happy to turn. You need to keep the camber negative. You need to prevent body roll. You have a chassis with the torsional stiffness of over-cooked spaghetti, so you can't do it all in the rear. You need to up the front springs to get these pigs to turn.