Center of lower lateral arm stuck on frame

[95_Talon20]

Sorry if I didn't say it correctly, But apparently from what I can see on the end of the lateral arm that connects to the frame. The center where the bolt goes through looks like it has broken and am able to move the arm along that from side to side. Reason why I say this is because when I move the arm from side to side I don't see the bolt. (well I don't believe is that thick) Sorry if I am explaining it wrong for you to understand

 

[TSiAWD666]

That lower control arm has a rubber bushing there with a metal sleeve in the center that the bolt passes through. They are all (sleeve, bushing, arm) bonded normally but from your description the rubber bushing has torn. You'll need to replace the arm to get a new bushing as it's not sold separately, at least not OEM.

An alternative is to go to aftermarket replacement polyurethane bushings but that's a loooot more work.

 

[95_Talon20]

No I have the arm already, But I was wondering what was my best bet of getting it out of there because if I do choose (which I've tried) to cut it out, ill be cutting through the sleeve and the bolt which will probably take forever with what I have. Also my problem is that the sleeve is holding the bolt right since The bolt will turn but won't back out even with me banging on it?

 

[TSiAWD666]

Cutting is about the only thing I can think of but I personally have very little experience with having to forcefully remove control arms. Maybe someone else can offer a more appealing alternative. Just make sure you don't cut the subframe if at all possible.

 

[PlanZero]

I can't really tell from your pics; are you saying the head of the bolt is gone? And what's remaining is stuck in the sleeve? If the bolt itself isn't budging, heat the crap out of it, spray with pblaster, and whack it through with a smaller diameter bolt and a mini sledge.

 

[luv2rallye]

The sleeve goes all the way across between the frame hangers (which squeeze it when bolt/nut is tight) so you can't see the bolt inside it. The bolt rusts to the sleeve and you most likely will have to cut through the sleeve and bolt together to remove the arm.

I used 6" 14TPI Blu-Mol bi-metal with cobalt recip saw blades (Home Depot) which worked great. Only used 3 (total for both sides) and didn't even need cutting oil. After cutting I had to heat the cut bushing sleeve red hot with a Mapp gas/O2 torch to free it from the bolt and frame hanger. But heating it causes the rubber bushing to light on fire which is a smoky stinky mess, so try without heating first (cut and pry). Don't worry about destroying the rubber bushing since you'll have to replace the arm anyway to get the new bushing and sleeve (it comes with these on it).

Here's how to do the same thing (and where to cut) on the rear toe control arm which can be used as an example/guide: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/replacing-seized-rear-toe-control-arms.205503/

Coat the new bolt with anti-sieze (inside the sleeve) to help with future rust.