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CEL, no power, what the hell

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rlacasse1

10+ Year Contributor
2,666
9
Jan 6, 2009
Scott AFB, Illinois
Ok. So this has happened a couple of times now. I will be driving and all will be normal, nothing out of the ordinary. Then all the sudden my car will throw a CEL and lose power (only has enough to keep a steady speed, won't speed up). Then a minute or two later the CEL will go away and all will be normal again.

I doubt it is the ECU because it has a new one in it already. So........

Anyone got any idea as to what that may be?
 
Please be alot more specific on how it happens. How does the car react to throttle when this happens? Does this happen at highway speeds or residential speeds? or Both? Definately sounds like an electrical issue to me. I heard quite a few times people's batteries would be hitting the hood causing a short and kill the car and cause all sorts of problems. Does this happen in the rain only? You need to be alot more specific. And btw Im pretty sure the codes do get stored.
 
Ok. So this has happened a couple of times now. I will be driving and all will be normal, nothing out of the ordinary. Then all the sudden my car will throw a CEL and lose power (only has enough to keep a steady speed, won't speed up). Then a minute or two later the CEL will go away and all will be normal again.

I doubt it is the ECU because it has a new one in it already. So........

Anyone got any idea as to what that may be?

By your description, it looks, that your car is going into the limp mode. These are the symptoms of the bad Knock sensor,check it out.The sensor might need to be replaced ,or there could be a bad connection.
 
It has happened at about 30MPH everytime. Like I originally posted, the car will not speed up, it just keeps a constant speed. It does not react what-so-ever to throttle. Completely dry day, no rain, just a little chilly out.

I know it isn't the battery touching the hood becuase I put something over the posts specifically for that reason.

I have heard it could be the knock sensor so I will try that out and I will try to pull a code off of it.
 
Read the codes. Most of the fault codes are stored once the active fault goes away. You may need to get a logger or hook up a reader (12v LED or piezo buzzer but it's annoying for all the time use due to the heartbeat) to the diagnostic ports to capture the code while it's happening.
 
OK. The little diagnostic link is no good for me. I put a voltmeter on it and the thing bounced around to fast for me to be able to get all the codes.

It went like this

00.00 for awhile
2.5
0
2.5
0
2.5
0
2.5
00.00 for a while again ( like it was starting a new code)

then it bounced really fast between 0-2.5 for awhile

then it went to 0 and repeated everything over again.

I hope that isn't to confusing but that's what happened.

So, i took it to a few part stores and nobody has a OBD 1 reader for a mitsubishi. they only have domestic crap
 
Radio Shack for a 12v LED or the piezo buzzer and some microclips.
The buzzer works great if your checking for codes but it's pretty annoying to have on all the time.

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The LED requires some soldering to extend the leads and you might want to use 1/8" spade connectors if your going to keep it hooked up.
 
Ok, I will try that and see what happens. I have two little wires that will work already to connect to the connector so i will just solder on to them . Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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