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Catch can setup

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matt98eclipse

15+ Year Contributor
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Aug 15, 2006
mesa, Arizona
from taboo speed shop:

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Considering the link you posted, That CC is sealed and needs a source of vacume to work properly, Aka Intake mani.
Pic 4, 1st post, The can routed from the VC to ITM.

The tabo speed shop wont work for you. There will be no circulation. That setup is for a Vented can.
 
that modded map will not work becuase as stated there has to be a vacume on the pcv valve to worrk
 
Considering the link you posted, That CC is sealed and needs a source of vacume to work properly, Aka Intake mani.
Pic 4, 1st post, The can routed from the VC to ITM.

The tabo speed shop wont work for you. There will be no circulation. That setup is for a Vented can.

totally forgot he didnt have a vented can.

so if using a sealed can then use the link you posted ( using 2 cans and a check valve ) and if using a vented can, then the taboo speed shop diagram would be ok?
 
Yes the taboo speed shop diagram would be the correct way to hook up two catch cans. You basically have to decide which places you want to put your single catch can between.
 
Yes the taboo speed shop diagram would be the correct way to hook up two catch cans. You basically have to decide which places you want to put your single catch can between.

the taboo speed shop one that i posted shows for one can. or were you referring to the link DougR put up?
 
that modded map will not work becuase as stated there has to be a vacume on the pcv valve to worrk


Not if you use a straight fitting like suggested. Or just hollow out the stock PCV. But again, this would be the case for a vented catch can.

To the OP, you can always mod the Greddy can with a vent on top, I've seen this done plenty of times.
 
Yea, Leave the PCV alone, well clean it out with some berrymans B-12 and then install This Inbetween the CC and the intake mani as in the pics. Just make shure to install it correctly, It does have a small arrow showing flow direction. Dont ask me how I found that one out. :(
Order a few of them, as they will break over time due to excessive heat. Just like any plastics under your hood..
I bought 15 of them and ended up selling them to friends for 50cents over cost along with a CC build and install... Made my money back and then some...

My only complaint about the US plastics check valve is its low flow rate. It will dramaticly decrease the Flow Thoughout system. The one good thing about lowering the flow rate is your PCV wont rattle anymore. Can anyone say "phantom knock"?
My S-10 would rattle the PCV so bad it sounded like rocker tap. Drove me absolutly crazy for 2 weeks chasing down that noise! I can only imagine the damage that steel ball would do if it ever made its way out of the PCV body and into the engine.

I am currently looking for a alternative to the plastic valve. I have found some good Aluminum check valves that will Flow (guessing atm) 3x as mutch due mainly to their shear size vs the plastic valve.
But alas with anything they come at a steep price.

Hopefully I will hear back from Kepner or Eaton this week, Im trying to get a decent price drop by buying in bulk. Considering I have 4 vehicals that need them along with all of my motor head friends. And the occasional guy that stops by the garage... Figure I could make a couple pennys off them... ;)

Kinda makes you wonder why we cannot buy a CC with them built in... Considering its a mandatory item when recirculating back into your intake.
 
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