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Catback install questions

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2gGSX

15+ Year Contributor
1,956
30
Feb 15, 2004
St. Louis, Missouri
Okay, so I finally ordered my catback, and have a few questions.

1. Can I install the entire thing with only the front jacked up? If not, how do I get the rear up? Do I need to use one of those ramp things?
2. Will liberal amounts of WD40 and and something like liquid wrench get the bolts loose enough to take off?
3. Will I need any special tools?
4. How important will torque specs be for reinstallation?
5. Any other pieces of advice?
 
2gGSX said:
1. Can I install the entire thing with only the front jacked up? If not, how do I get the rear up? Do I need to use one of those ramp things?
2. Will liberal amounts of WD40 and and something like liquid wrench get the bolts loose enough to take off?
3. Will I need any special tools?
4. How important will torque specs be for reinstallation?
5. Any other pieces of advice?


I will answer in the same order.

1.You should use some jack stands and raise it from the rear. Higher the better, but be safe.

2. Yeah that might work, but with the ass in the air get yourself a long hollow pipe bigger than wrench diameter (Breaker bar).

3. You might need the o2 socket if you are not handy with 2 wrenches at the same time, LOL. Other than that it is pretty easy.

4. As tight as your breaker bar will get it is good enough.

5. Take your time and don't get fustrated. A 2nd hand will help with parts not falling on your head or shoulder. Be carefull. It will get done, trust me. :thumb:
 
I am not certian about the torque specs, however just as reference, use PB blaster, (can be found at any NAPA),and put it on a few days prior. If you are going to be doing any work under your car, as you will be, Make sure to have a set of good jack stands, and only use the hydrolic jack for raising and lowering. I would definately be doing something like with both ends up in the air, it will make the install much easier and it will give you more room to work with. The only special tools you will need will be something to cut the exhuast off, should the two flanges and bolts connecting the pipe and cat are rusted together, but this is what pb blaster is for, to an extent. As for a a peice of advice, Good Luck! ;)

Ahh Midnght beat me too it. crap, good advice nonetheless :D
 
Where can I jack it up initially on? I'm assuming the spare well isn't strong enough? Will jackstands and the jack be strong enough to keep the car from falling if I say..kick a breaker bar? :D

What will I need the sparkplug socket for? I've glanced over the installation and can't figure anything out still.
 
TsiTalon9587 said:
I am not certian about the torque specs, however just as reference, use PB blaster, (can be found at any NAPA),and put it on a few days prior. If you are going to be doing any work under your car, as you will be, Make sure to have a set of good jack stands, and only use the hydrolic jack for raising and lowering. I would definately be doing something like with both ends up in the air, it will make the install much easier and it will give you more room to work with. The only special tools you will need will be something to cut the exhuast off, should the two flanges and bolts connecting the pipe and cat are rusted together, but this is what pb blaster is for, to an extent. As for a a peice of advice, Good Luck! ;)

Thanks :thumb: I see why both ends would be a good choice, but if it came down to it would just the rear work? I seriously doubt I could get enough room to work with if I only jacked the front. Where would I use the floorjack on? As far as I can see there's only the spare wheel well and the bumper cover :confused:
 
Sorry mean't O2 socket. Has a slit to get arond the wires. I will fix that in my post.
Torque specs are not really required on the exhaust IMO. Others will agree.

I wouldn't be kicking the car in the air. Use a LONGER breaker bar. It will work.
It is up to you. Sort of like me telling you not to drive fast, cause it is not right. Use your judgement.


ADVICE: If you have a hydrolic jack that you are using. Once the car is secure on the jack stand, pull the hydrolic jack handle off (pin or screw holding it together) and use it for a slip over breaker.
 
Look around a bit. There is a place to use. It is only needed long enough to place the jackstands. You should place the jackstands beside the wheels before you jack the car up, so you are not fumbling around for them with the car in the air.


If you are using a hydrolic jack, you want to get it as high as the jackstands will let it go.
 
You just jack up the points where they are supposed to be jacked up on. right after the front wheels, right under the doors. And before the rear wheels. I'd say do it right and safely. Better to be alive and kickin' then dead...
 
That far back in the exhaust system tirque specs aren't all that critical. However, since it has torque specs you might as well right? here they are:

To connect to the rear of the cat = 36 ft lbs
To connect to the muffler = 25 ft lbs
All hangers and brackets = 9.4 ft lbs
O2 Sensor = 33 ft lbs

If you need any others let me know.

As was stated PB Blaster is your friend, between it and a decent breaker bar you'll be fine.
 
I dont know how much harder the AWD's are but i did my FWD catback in about 45mins with a crap load of PB blaster and a 3' piece of 1" pipe for a breaker bar. Only jacked up the left front as high as it would go and locked my jack.
 
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