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Car Wont Start, searched for days...

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Binger187

Probationary Member
4
0
Jan 22, 2008
Rochester, New Hampshire
Hello all, I have a 1997 GSX A/T. I just bought the car 3 days ago. When I first got it, it was running rough and low RPMs, I found it there was no power to the MAF sensor. I talked to the guy that sold it to me, he said to check the wires hooked up to the ECU, he had installed a SAFC system on it when he had an upgraded intercooler/turbo. The turbo and intercooler are now back to stock FYI. Checked the harness plugged into the ECU and sure enough there were 3 wires he had cut and attempted to butt connect back together that were.. well.. not together. I looked at the wire diagram on VFAQ and found that the three wires that were not together were the MAF signal wire (made sense), a black negative wire and a red constant +12V power wire. So I disconnected the battery and reinstalled these three wires to the ECU harness. I turned the car over... and over... and over... no start.

Heres what I have tried. I checked to make sure first of all that I was now getting power to the MAF sensor, I was. I checked to make sure I was getting spark, removed the plug wires 1 at a time and hooked a spare spark plug to them and grounded to the block, they all sparked. Tried to crank it a few more times, removed the plugs and smelled them, they were covered in fuel, wiped them all down and let the engine vent for about 45 mins then put the plugs back in. Cranked some more, still wont start. It sounds like its trying to fire every 10 or 15 rotations and a little puff of smoke comes out the exhaust.

While reading thru this forum and all over the internet I saw a few reasons why this might be happening. Tried the MPI fuse (20amp labled "Engine") it was fine. Tested the MPI relay located under the radio to the right, its working perfectly. Tested the Cam Angle Sensor, seems to be working fine, also the temp sensor seems to be working fine. Checked the timing belt, its still there LOL. I can here the fuel pump click on when I turn the key to accessories. I have not yet tested the Crank Sensor (I read that if the Crank sensor was bad I would have no spark?).

One thing that strikes me as strange is the 12V switched and the 12V constant power that goes to the ECU are both showing about 7.4V with the key on the on position. No Idea what could be causing that. I don't know if while the possitve and negative wire for the ECU were just hanging they might have grounded out or shorted somewhere.

Again sorry if this has been covered somewhere, but I did search for a long time before posting, tried everything I read and have still not been able to come up with a resolution.

Any and all input will be greately appreciated.

Help me get my new (to me) car running! Thank you!
 
If you have 7.4V where you should have 12V, you are dropping voltage somewhere. Follow your wires. Hopefullly the loose wires for the MAF didin't short some how. Sorry I can't answer with an exact fix. But I gave you my two cents.
 
are you checking voltage before or after the splice? if before the splice your going to have to retrace the wires, if after (near the ECU) then it may be the splice. Those connections should be soldered.
 
I am getting the low voltage before and after the splice, the switched power wire was never cut, and it reads the low 7 volts. What would happen if I just run a jumper wire from the battery to the ECU to supply the 12 volts? Shouldnt do any damage to the ECU since it is looking for 12V anyways and only getting 7. Right?
 
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