Car still will not idle.

[Spector5]

So I have made some slight changes to the car since my last time I attempted at firing up the car. I relocated my Baro from my speed density cable to the appropriate spot, wired in my aem wideband to my ecu., adjust my throttle cable and have full throttle when doing a full throttle swing. However, it took at least three to four cranks for the motor to pop and try to scream to live, and then after that if fires up. When it's running the motor itself doesn't sound like its dropping a cylinder or misfiring, but the idle surge is still outragous, and now I'm picking up mad amounts of knock retard. The car will eventually just die/stall after about 10 secs of idle and trying to keep it alive with just the lightest touch of throttle

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

How far does it rev?, I would start with a boost leak test. Then check your ISC and TPS. Your seals could be bad in your throttle body. Plugs, wires, coil pack. It seems like there is 1000+ things that keep these cars from idling and geting idle surge. I am currently suffering from this issue. But it was my throttle body seals......

 

[Spector5]

How far does it rev?, I would start with a boost leak test. Then check your ISC and TPS. Your seals could be bad in your throttle body. Plugs, wires, coil pack. It seems like there is 1000+ things that keep these cars from idling and geting idle surge. I am currently suffering from this issue. But it was my throttle body seals......

Yeah Im gonna do a Boost leak test, however, I am fairly certain it is not the problem. Almost every single tht might have a possible boost leak. Everything from the o2 all the way to the throttle body had gotten new gaskets

 

[rebuild4g63]

I wouldn't worry about a boost leak test at this moment. YOur car still idles and drives with a big hole in your pipes. It is a air/fuel problem . Could be a vaccum problem, but I doubt that. If you look by your throttle cable end, there is an adjustable screw. Mess with that a bit. In the front of your throttle body is another screw that is kinda in your face. Id go with loosening that up a bit for starters. If it is too tight it will do what you are saying your car is doing. Hope this helps.

 

[WES_393]

Did you adjust the throttle stop screw at all? Or just the throttle cable position with the two bolts on the back of the intake manifold?

 

[Spector5]

Did you adjust the throttle stop screw at all? Or just the throttle cable position with the two bolts on the back of the intake manifold?

Just the throttle cable, it had to much slack in the cable to where I was only getting 95% swing on dsmlink, but now she's 100%

 

[rebuild4g63]

So it is running now?

 

[Spector5]

It runs, it just won't idle. It will spit and sputter while trying to fire up, once it on ally fires it revs up to about 2100 rom and then idle surges between 1000 and 2300, while its doing that I have to toy with the gas to keep her going other wise it just dies. I've replaced about everything on the car, new tps, new ecu, all new gaskets, new piping and couplers. The crazy thing is the car ran fine before I started running dsmlink. I am seriously concerned I may have something ass backwards or something because like I said before the car ran like a champ before and now it will barely even idle.

 

[rts91tsi]

It sounds to me like the throttle plate may not be closing all of the way, or making contact with the Idle Position Switch, due to an over-adjustment of the cable.

Did you try this procedure?

 

[reddragon1]

Have you used link to try to adjust idle? Also are you sure the idle screw did not blow out of the throttle body?

 

[Spector5]

Well, I'll be out working on the car tomorrow. So I'll snag a video and post a log to get you guys a Better idea of the monster pain I'm dealing with