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Car stalled and now won't crank.

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illuminatus

15+ Year Contributor
99
0
Jan 18, 2005
Dayton, Ohio
So I was driving back from the store, the car studdered as if the fuel pump was acting up, stalled, and now it won't crank. When I turn the key it just makes a reving noise like an electric motor is turning on but nothing else. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Test the fuel pump. See if you're getting power to it. If you are, crack open your fuel return line and crank it to see if it's pumping fuel. Make sure you have a bucket or something to catch the fuel when it spills. If that checks out fine then see if you have spark.
 
I'll check that right after I check if my <10,000 mile old timing belt is still there. However, if it was a fuel pump problem, wouldn't the engine still crank?
 
Get a 3/4 ratchet and extension, and see if you can turn the motor over by hand through the driver's side wheel well. If not, your timing belt may have given up or jumped, and your valves met your pistons. The electric motor noise is the starter, but the gear is not engaging (possibly due to the engine seizing).
 
I think I have discovered the problem, or at the very least part of it:
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:cry:
 
Whoa! What a nice little timing belt!

Weight Reduction?


I would be curious to see what caused this. Post some pictures when you figure it out.
 
That sucks. Take that mount off, along with the water pump/AC pulleys and remove the timing belt cover. Hopefully, your belt didn't actually jump, and it's just the piece of the freyed belt that's keeping the motor from turning over. That would be the best case scenario.

Sometimes, putting the wrong length of bolt in the oil pan makes the tip of the bolt gradually cut through the belt, or some other similar situation. Or, you just got a defective belt.
 
kinda weird how it would shred in half like that.. now it just looks like a big balance shaft belt....was it too tight? the teeth are all still there right? just the top part came off?
 
The teeth are still there but the whole right side of the belt is shredded and melted. It was on pretty tight... you guys think the mechanic might have messed something up when swapping the timing belts?
 
So, when the mechanic replaced the timing belt he also replaced the tensioner. However, apparently there is another bearing/guide that broke and shredded my belt. The valves are all bent up and :'(.

So here is what I am thinking:

1.) Buy a JDM 4g63 K (167HP stock)
2.) Sell my 1993 Eagle Talon ES with the broken engine but couple it with a new upper. (how much do you think I could get out of it?)
 
Just get another cylinder head. A 1G turbo or NT head will work, and you can get them for a few hundred, rebuilt and all. You may want to use your cams if you can only find a turbo head.
 
Well I have a whole upper engine for the motor. When the timing belt was replaced should that bearing/guide have been checked?
 
illuminatus said:
Well I have a whole upper engine for the motor. When the timing belt was replaced should that bearing/guide have been checked?

I'm not understanding what you mean by 'a whole upper engine for the motor'. I presume you mean the cylinder head, which sits on the top of the block. That should really be all you need. You might even be able to rebuild your existing head. As long as the pistons didn't take a massive beating of course.

Technically, when doing a timing belt, every thing that rotates with the belt should be replace, as well as the tensioner. Not everyone does this of course. Your mechanic probably replaced what needed replacing at the time, in order to keep costs low. Now, if you paid for a complete timing belt job, and it was documented that way, you have some recourse. Otherwise, you can chalk this one up as a learning experience. If your piston tops are okay, just buy another cylinder head, even a good used one should suffice, especially on a N/T. You don't want to sink a couple grand (motor, labor) in a N/T car worth a couple grand. If you were getting performance, sure. But 167hp isn't enough to say it was worth it.
 
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