2G Car sputters on idle and when turned on

[rambow70]

So recently my car sputters when I first turn it on but now it does it when I come to a stop. It is a completely stock auto 2g. It accelerates fine so I doubt it is a boost leak. I wonder if it is fuel related or spark related. I changed my plugs 7k miles ago this past spring. I also recently switched to shell V power after seeing their "intake valve" cleaning comparison so I am not sure it is related but its 93 octane instead of the pee gas from Kroger which is 92 and questionable ha. I switched when I learned shell takes my Kroger awards. It started happening after the fuel switch but like I said that is a weak reason. Today it sputtered under acceleration but off boost acceleration, like a really slow acceleration because I like to conserve gas. Any thoughts what it could be? My CEL light is always on so I will go to AutoZone to get it ran when I get the chance from work and school. Probably throw some ngk coppers in there too if the plugs look gross. I guess I need more info but I don't have the time at the moment to look into it now. Just wondering what common symptoms are at sputtering at idle but not on boost, it accelerates just as hard as ever so that is what confuses me.

Edit: It is also a healthy motor, it burns no oil and oil is a good color. Transmission isn't failing but shows its age when I drive it for long periods of time but I don't know if those are factors.

 

[steve]

Until you read the codes out everyone would be guessing.

Without the CEL being on I would have suggested taking it out for a hard drive and see if doesn't clean up but not until you know what the ECU thinks is wrong.

 

[rambow70]

Until you read the codes out everyone would be guessing.

Without the CEL being on I would have suggested taking it out for a hard drive and see if doesn't clean up but not until you know what the ECU thinks is wrong.

The CEL in the past has been for a fuel solenoid but I have heard it of those going bad because it isn't a moving part? At least that is what a local dsm guy told me. I will pull the plugs and run codes this week, I just work everyday which sucks that it is acting up right now. But hard driving it responds fine, its the idle/start up/slow accelerations that make it act up.

 

[Galipso]

So recently my car sputters when I first turn it on but now it does it when I come to a stop. It is a completely stock auto 2g. It accelerates fine so I doubt it is a boost leak. I wonder if it is fuel related or spark related. I changed my plugs 7k miles ago this past spring. I also recently switched to shell V power after seeing their "intake valve" cleaning comparison so I am not sure it is related but its 93 octane instead of the pee gas from Kroger which is 92 and questionable ha. I switched when I learned shell takes my Kroger awards. It started happening after the fuel switch but like I said that is a weak reason. Today it sputtered under acceleration but off boost acceleration, like a really slow acceleration because I like to conserve gas. Any thoughts what it could be? My CEL light is always on so I will go to AutoZone to get it ran when I get the chance from work and school. Probably throw some ngk coppers in there too if the plugs look gross. I guess I need more info but I don't have the time at the moment to look into it now. Just wondering what common symptoms are at sputtering at idle but not on boost, it accelerates just as hard as ever so that is what confuses me.

Edit: It is also a healthy motor, it burns no oil and oil is a good color. Transmission isn't failing but shows its age when I drive it for long periods of time but I don't know if those are factors.

If u just changed ur plugs 7k ago and its completely stock, then dont switch to NGK. If u pull them and they do look nasty, then u dont have a healthy motor. Each one should look identical, if one looks way worse than the others then ur one step closer to identifying a problem.

For idle and start up issues, it still could be a boost leak problem even if it boosts ok. A book leak test is very easy and quick to do so it should be done when diagnosing issues.

If you're worried about the gas, u could change your in-line fuel filter and do the fuel pump rewire, both of which are also easy and cheap fixes.

If you've had a code for fuel solenoid, then check over your vacuum lines and the wiring. The rough idle and accel most likely sounds like a vacuum line issue. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-and-removal-for-1g-and-2g.198327/

 

[rambow70]

If u just changed ur plugs 7k ago and its completely stock, then dont switch to NGK. If u pull them and they do look nasty, then u dont have a healthy motor. Each one should look identical, if one looks way worse than the others then ur one step closer to identifying a problem.

For idle and start up issues, it still could be a boost leak problem even if it boosts ok. A book leak test is very easy and quick to do so it should be done when diagnosing issues.

If you're worried about the gas, u could change your in-line fuel filter and do the fuel pump rewire, both of which are also easy and cheap fixes.

If you've had a code for fuel solenoid, then check over your vacuum lines and the wiring. The rough idle and accel most likely sounds like a vacuum line issue. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-and-removal-for-1g-and-2g.198327/

The motor seems healthy, great fuel pressure, doesn't over heat, does not burn oil like at all, 7k of oil and it's still gold in color. I will boost leak test it, just need to find a way to do it, I don't have the tools. All my lines look secure. I have a fuel filter replacement but that job is way to much of a bi***, I tried doing it over the summer and couldn't get either side to budge with box end wrenches and the helpful meathods.

 

[rambow70]

Ok, so I think it might be my alternator. My battery is brand new but the alternator is original... So I ordered a referb one from NAPA and I have seen the install guides.

I removed my splash shield and the positive and negative connections. My problem is how do I get that pivot bolt by the oil filter off without removing the oil filter? It looks like nothing would be able to get in there. Also I changed my oil recently so if I did have to take off the filter, how much oil would that lose with these cars? Would I be better off draining all of it? I cleaned my pan but I am kicking myself in the butt because it isn't perfectly clean, I have a time budget, and I don't want to throw away brand new oil. So if anyone knows a way around the filter to get the pivot bolt off that would be great! The side with the splash shield looks like it can't turn because it is square and there is a small extrusion from the block to hold it in place, probably so you can undo the bolt from the other side.

 

[rambow70]

So the code it throws is 1105 for the barometric pressure sensor. I'm guessing it's the map sensor and a boost leak? It used ton throw a code for some fuel solenoid but that went away and everyone said that it wasn't a moving part and sometimes got dirty but never usually caused issues. So I guess I have to do a boost leak test without the tools or know how :/ . But it's weird because it gets on boost fine, the idle sometimes just dips really low when I start the car or come to a stop but not everytime. So it's weird it would be a boost leak?

 

[SlickZL1]

Boost leaks at idle are vacuum leaks.

I didn't have tools to do a boost leak test, but it is really simple to assemble a tester with just a Pvc reducer the size of your turbo intake and either a cheap pressure gauge or just a valve stem drilled into it. I got a gauge for free from the heating guy, he had tons that he discards after testing natural gas systems. plenty of how to's on here to get it running great.