Oil leak when car is turned on

[triggerx]

Ok Im about done with my rebuild for school, and as soon as i turn it on, oil spills out by the turbo. Seems to be from the line that goes into the block by the tstat to the turbo.
And If im not mistaken, its leaking where the banjo fitting and bolt mate with the side of the block.

BTW I only have one crusher on it, where the bolt head meets the fitting. Is there suppose to be another one on the opposite side where the block meets the fitting?

Another thing I should note is that it doesnt seem like I can tighten that bolt down, because it continues to spin even though its reached the fitting,

 

[rlacasse1]

A) Yes, you need a crush washer on both sides of the fitting or else it will leak.

B) You stripped the head, that's why the bolt continues to spin. I had the same issue with mine, well actually the threads in the head came out on the bolt. Go to a NAPA an get a Heli-Coil set to fix it. It worked well on mine. I had no issues after that.

So, get two crush washers and Heli-Coil the hole the bolt goes in. That will solve your issues.

 

[WES_393]

Yes there is supposed to be one crush washer on both sides of the banjo fitting. Its also good practice to never use the same crush washer twice. If the bolt wont tighten up its possible that its stripped. Pull the bolt and inspect the threads on the bolt and in the head. If they're good replace the washers and try to reinstall. If it still wont snug up you'll likely have to have the threads repaired or the port blocked and feed the turbo from the oil filter housing with a restrictor.

 

[triggerx]

Yes there is supposed to be one crush washer on both sides of the banjo fitting. Its also good practice to never use the same crush washer twice. If the bolt wont tighten up its possible that its stripped. Pull the bolt and inspect the threads on the bolt and in the head. If they're good replace the washers and try to reinstall. If it still wont snug up you'll likely have to have the threads repaired or the port blocked and feed the turbo from the oil filter housing with a restrictor.

Ugh you're right, gonna have to repair the threads.

Btw thanks for the heli coil idea, rlacasse1, ill check it out

 

[Calan]

You need to be extremely careful when you repair those threads. You would be better off doing it with the head off... or try to seal that port and source the oil feed from the filter housing as Wes suggested.

Depending on how badly it's stripped, you might be able to get it to seal and stay tight by using some blue gel loctite on the threads after a thorough cleaning (and the two new crush washers), but that would be a temporary fix at best, even if it worked.

But FWIW - I have been able to block that port when it was slightly stripped using an M8 bolt with blue loctite gel and a single new crush washer.

 

[triggerx]

You need to be extremely careful when you repair those threads. You would be better off doing it with the head off... or try to seal that port and source the oil feed from the filter housing as Wes suggested.

Depending on how badly it's stripped, you might be able to get it to seal and stay tight by using some blue gel loctite on the threads after a thorough cleaning (and the two new crush washers), but that would be a temporary fix at best, even if it worked.

Ugh, more bad news after the other. I just put the head on.
I know that there was a long metal shaving that came off with the bolt, that was in the thread of the bolt. And helicoil is more expensive than I thought..
I'm at a loss here, I hate to resort to blue locktite but u might be on to something ### redoing the timing and head is just not appealing right now

 

[rlacasse1]

Ugh, more bad news after the other. I just put the head on.
I know that there was a long metal shaving that came off with the bolt, that was in the thread of the bolt. And helicoil is more expensive than I thought..
I'm at a loss here, I hate to resort to blue locktite but u might be on to something ### redoing the timing and head is just not appealing right now

Yeah, that long shaving was the threads in the head coming out on the bolt.

Another suggestion, this is not the optimal procedure by any means. But, you could Heli-Coil it with the head on. I had mine off when I did mine so it made it way easier.

So, here's what you could do assuming this is ok. I know that some people switch out OEM head studs with ARP studs by just taking out one stud at a time and replacing them one by one. So I would assume it's ok to take out just the one front passenger stud (the one closest to that feed), which is where the oil travels through to get to the feed line. If you were to pull that bolt, you could put something down there to block the shavings from all going down that port. And you could clean it up easier once done. I know it's kind of ghetto, but it might work.

No one hate on me for this post.

 

[Calan]

I know that there was a long metal shaving that came off with the bolt, that was in the thread of the bolt.

If you are pulling the threads out of the head with the bolt, the loctite gel idea most likely isn't going to work. You are now pretty much to the point of the helicoil, or tapping the existing hole for a larger thread and then blocking it off.

 

[NHerron]

To contribute to rlacasse1's post

I like this quote from miguelmcv over at this thread
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/423427-stripped-oil-feed-head.html

Just tap it with enough grease,, The way to do this is, put a lot of grease on the tap and do only 1 turn at a time, put grease, do one turn, take the tap out and clean the grease with debris, put grease again and do another round turn, Keep doing it this way, and you will have have no problem, after you finish, insert a q-tip with grease to remove the self over and crank the engine, so the oil can take out the rest of the debris (If there is).
I just did this Today, and was so clean.

Along with BryanWheat's advice

 

[triggerx]

Seems simple enough, and judging by the location I think ill be able to do this with the head on the car, I just need to clean any metal debris away. Btw, if I use helicoil and rethread the hole, can I still use the old banjo bolt?

 

[rlacasse1]

Yes, you can. Just make sure you get a Heli-Coil set that is the correct thread for the banjo bolt.

Oh, and another thing. This is about the install of the Heli-Coil.

The coil basically looks like a spring but at one end the metal crosses the diameter of the Heli-Coil. It's what the tool uses to insert it. Make sure you get that thing out once you are finished installing the Heli-Coil.

This pic shows exactly what I'm talking about. http://www.boellhoff.de/files/jpg1/HELICOIL_Reparatur1.jpg

Two things will happen if you don't get it out.

A) If it doesn't break off when you take out the tool, then it will block oil flow. I think I broke mine off with a pair of needle nose pliers.

B) If it does break off and you don't get it out, then that piece of metal will be in your engine. Somewhere.

And finally, when you do this. Make sure that you install the Heli-Coil at a very shallow depth. If you go to deep the banjo bolt will barely thread into it and it'll be fairly useless.

 

[triggerx]

BTW to those of you have been in this situation before, anyone know what size this bolt is, or rather what size helicoil I need? Im thinking M10-1.25

 

[Calan]

Should be M8 X 1.25 IIRC

 

[bryzenga]

If you are going to block it off with a bolt, do not use a long one. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but if you use a longer bolt, you may end up blocking off oil to the head. It would be a good idea to find a bolt that is just as long or even a bit shorter than the original. One of my friends cautioned me on this a while back, so I decided to follow his advice and not take it for granted

 

[triggerx]

Should be M8 X 1.25 IIRC

Are you referring to the size insert I need?
The bolt is actually a m10x1.25 after I just measured it out.
im referring to the bolt that goes into the head

 

[rlacasse1]

You get the Heli-Coils based on the thread of the bolt. So if that bolt is a M10x1.25 then you need to get a set for that thread, now what you just want to put into the head.