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car runs fine after ecu replace but cant past 4000 rpms

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Marceldsm

10+ Year Contributor
321
3
Jan 13, 2010
Montreal, QC, Canada
so i repair all the wiring and the ecu

and men the car started like a beast
no problems what so ever only problem the TPS IS MISS AJUSTED and im getting a random tps code from time to time

THE TING IS THE CAR WORKS GOOD THEN.......AT AROUD 4000 RPM IT JUST CUTS
FEELS LIKE FUEL CUT

IS IT A VACCUM LEAK
A MAF PROBLEM ( I HAVE A NOTHER TO TRAY )
A FUEL PROBLEM ( MY FUEL TANK ITS ALMOST ON EMPTY) CAN THAT BE THE PROBLEM

I CHANGED
FUEL FILTER
SPARK PLUGS
OIL
COLANT
TRANNY OIL

IL ADD SOME GAS ( THE CAR WHASENT RUNNNING FOR THE LAST 2 MONTHS THATS WHAY THE GAS IS LOW )
THE AIR FUEL IS RICH WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD( NORMAL )
THEN AT NORMAL TEMP AROUND 12,5 OR 13 TO 1

CAR IS COMPLETY STOCK
ONLY A 2.5 " EXHAUST WHIT NO CAT
FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER


ANY IDEAS ?
 
so i repair all the wiring and the ecu

and men the car started like a beast
no problems what so ever only problem the TPS IS MISS AJUSTED and im getting a random tps code from time to time

THE TING IS THE CAR WORKS GOOD THEN.......AT AROUD 4000 RPM IT JUST CUTS
FEELS LIKE FUEL CUT
A FUEL PROBLEM ( MY FUEL TANK ITS ALMOST ON EMPTY) CAN THAT BE THE PROBLEM



THEN AT NORMAL TEMP AROUND 12,5 OR 13 TO 1

CAR IS COMPLETY STOCK
ONLY A 2.5 " EXHAUST WHIT NO CAT
FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER
ANY IDEAS ?

i have a few. My car did the same thing at 5k rpms, the problem turned out to be the ecu. If you car does not show a check engine light then we can narrow a lot of possible problems down. Did you make sure your ecu is certainly a turbo ecu? The air fuel ratio at idle that you are seeing is normal mine was 12.6 at startup and normal operation temp. sometimes it was 11.1 at startup which is pretty rich, then it went back to the 12 to 13 range. I think its your computer, try this, dont floor the car, but ease it up to the rev limiter see if you can hit it. my car was faster sometimes if i eased the throttle than flooring it.
 
i have a few. My car did the same thing at 5k rpms, the problem turned out to be the ecu. If you car does not show a check engine light then we can narrow a lot of possible problems down. Did you make sure your ecu is certainly a turbo ecu? The air fuel ratio at idle that you are seeing is normal mine was 12.6 at startup and normal operation temp. sometimes it was 11.1 at startup which is pretty rich, then it went back to the 12 to 13 range. I think its your computer, try this, dont floor the car, but ease it up to the rev limiter see if you can hit it. my car was faster sometimes if i eased the throttle than flooring it.

i will do a boost test

its stange becouse at normal temperature air fuel its around 11 to 13 to 1 i newer saw it tuch 14


the ecu its a turbo ecu (SAME VIN LIKE MINE )
THE TPS IS BAD ON MY CAR

I ALREADY TRAIND TO DO THAT NOT FLOOR THE CAR

ITS PASSES 4000 RPM AND CUTS AROUND 4300

IT DOSE PAS 4000 RPM WHEN IN NEUTRAL

mAYBE BECOSE IM RUNNING LOW AN GAS ??!!:aha:

boost leak test is a good place to start. Check your spark plugs/wires too.

i will do that first

i have a few. My car did the same thing at 5k rpms, the problem turned out to be the ecu. If you car does not show a check engine light then we can narrow a lot of possible problems down. Did you make sure your ecu is certainly a turbo ecu? The air fuel ratio at idle that you are seeing is normal mine was 12.6 at startup and normal operation temp. sometimes it was 11.1 at startup which is pretty rich, then it went back to the 12 to 13 range. I think its your computer, try this, dont floor the car, but ease it up to the rev limiter see if you can hit it. my car was faster sometimes if i eased the throttle than flooring it.

THERE IS A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WHEN I REV THE CAR
ITS THE TPS CODE THE TING IS SOMETIMES IT GOUS AUT SOMETIMES IT STAYS ON :hmm:
 
Check the caps on the ecu you got. Everytime I have had a dsm not rev past 4 it was because of the ecu capacitors leaking. Ware did you get the ecu from?.

a friend of my had one on a scap 1g tsi fwd the ecu looks like new
no leaks whatsoever
compared to my old one this ting is mint i meen it look 100%
 
maybe check the transistor pack too, it can cause some weird problems. especially going from a 90 to a 91-94 ecu or vise-versa, because the transistor pack is wired different.

whell mine is a 91 and the ecu is a 92


the ting is i have no idea where the transistor pack is and how to test
any info will help at these point
 
I dont know what makes you think the throttle position sensor being out of adjustment would cause the check engine light to flash. I know my tps has not been adjusted properly and the light never came on. Most likey the boost leaks are causing the car to run crappy and causing the check engine light to come on. My check engine light in my 2g was coming on because of old gas, it threw the knock sensor code, i put 93 in and it went out later. If you have a 2g, your tps is likely to have some play into the cars performance as well.
 
Sounds like you are having a very similar problem I did.


my car would not let me go past 3.5K-4K rpms. It would act like fuel cut sometimes, other times act like Launch Control\Rev Limiter, I had horrible MPG, and the car ran PIG rich.

I tried tons of things. New Maf, Plugs, re did Timing, New CAS, new coil packs, new plug wires, diff fuel injectors, new fuel filter etc.

It turned out to be the ECU....I had tried 2 different ECU's, The first one I bought was bad and the car ran worse....so I put the stock one back in. Then it eventually fried completely. so I bought a manufactured one and the car now runs perfectly fine and pulls hard all the way to redline.
 
Sounds like you are having a very similar problem I did.


my car would not let me go past 3.5K-4K rpms. It would act like fuel cut sometimes, other times act like Launch Control\Rev Limiter, I had horrible MPG, and the car ran PIG rich.

I tried tons of things. New Maf, Plugs, re did Timing, New CAS, new coil packs, new plug wires, diff fuel injectors, new fuel filter etc.

It turned out to be the ECU....I had tried 2 different ECU's, The first one I bought was bad and the car ran worse....so I put the stock one back in. Then it eventually fried completely. so I bought a manufactured one and the car now runs perfectly fine and pulls hard all the way to redline.

tanks for the info

this ecu looks legit my old one is complety burn out these one looks ok nothing looks bad

my car dose the same exact thing i cant past 3.5- 4k it fells like fuel cut and it back fires sometimes and yes it runs PIG RICH
ANYWAY I GETTING A NOTHER ECU FROM SOMEBODY ON DSM TUNNERS MAYBE THAT WILL HELP :thumb:

IM STILL TINKING A VACCUM PROBLEM BECOSE THE CAR STARTS NORMAL

THE IDLLE IS STABLE

AND SOMETIMES THE IDLLE IS INSTABLE .............WHAT WILL COSE THAT :hmm:

I MEEN ONE MOMENT THE CAR IS STABLE THEN ITS NOT IT JUST SUGES FROM 700 TO 1200

I DONT TINK ITS THE TURBO ACCUATOR THE TURBO GOS IN BOOST FROM 3400 TO 4000 IT FEELS LIKE IT READY TO SAPARETE YOU HEAD FROM YOUR BODY AND THEN BOOOOOOOOM ITS LIKE HEETING A WALL and sometimes back fire

these ecu makes the car run better then before the old one its so GONNE THE CAR BOOSTS IN NEUTRAL

for the tps everytime im using DATALOGGER IM GETTING THAT CODE TPS
THATS WHAY IM SAYNG COSE THE TPS IS COMPLETY OUT OFF AJUSTMENT

wastegate actuator....test it, is this happening when your building boost or does it even do it when your just slowly accelerating keeping out of boost?
even if i doo that if it pases after 4000 it just cuts power


TANKS :thumb:
 
Yes the actuator could cause exactly what you just described LOL might sound illegit but its possible man.

well the intercooler pipeing its almost tuching the actuator buth the actuator moves ........i tink i have to check

i wil just get my compressor whit a air gun see if it moves

Yes the actuator could cause exactly what you just described LOL might sound illegit but its possible man.

the car back fires and sometimes the idlle is unstable i dont tink is the actuator il test it do
who knows maybe your right
 
yeah def having the same issues I was...

My ECU didn't seem bad either... there were no physical signs on the circuit bored, and it didn't smell bad either. but it was def bad
 
yeah def having the same issues I was...

My ECU didn't seem bad either... there were no physical signs on the circuit bored, and it didn't smell bad either. but it was def bad

my old one is gone completly
these one look 100% ok i payd 20$ to a friend i know for it cam off a dsm fwd a dude used for rally the frame whas bent so he scapt the car

im getting a new one soon

the ting is shood i doo someting in the time beeing like check for what ????

yeah def having the same issues I was...

My ECU didn't seem bad either... there were no physical signs on the circuit bored, and it didn't smell bad either. but it was def bad

one ting i forgot to mention

sometimes the car starts hard like after 10-15 sec
sometimes it starts on the spot
 
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