Car popping.. was intercooler pipe now backfire?

[SRiz]

Everytime I race now that I have a 14b it makes a popping noise either in 2nd shifting from 2nd to 3rd or anywhere in 3rd gear... I have a 190 walbro pump no other fuel mods and stock 02 housing 2.5 downpipe and 3 inch back from stight downpipe... My 14b is at 19 psi creeping bad from 13psi Is this like a small form of fuel cut cause it doesnt like shut the engine completly, It feels EXACTLY like an intercooler pipe is popping off except I can hit the gas right after this happens and have full power... My friend said I have a small flash coming out the back when I shift does this tell you anything... I am getting a exhaust housing for the 14b soon so no more creep but could someone tell me what the popping is... thanx!

 

[ArticNemesis]

Hmm. What's your base fuel pressure.?

Perhaps you are running rich, and the small flashes you are seeing is a backfire.

 

[SRiz]

I dont have an FPR nor a guage... I get amazing gas milage if I dont slam it like 22-28... is there another way of seeing if im rich... (except looking in my wallet.. ok that was ###)

 

[fulanititoo8198]

Just a suggestion to check your ignition plugs and wires at least. I had a similiar problem and it was 1 bad plug.

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Just wondering if you are venting your BOV. If you are that causes really rich conditions inbetween shifts. Your 14B shouldn't go from 13 psi to 19 psi. Something is definitely wrong there. If you don't have a MBC you should get one. At 19 PSI you will hit fuel cut without some kind of air fuel controller. Start from there.

 

[SRiz]

nope BOV is recirculated... and not plugs are fouled... and its called creep nothing is wrong just dont know what the popping is.

 

[ddavisaf]

nope BOV is recirculated... and not plugs are fouled... and its called creep nothing is wrong just dont know what the popping is.

No, that's incorrect. That much creep is not normal. Especially for the minimal amount of modifications you have done to the vehicle. Porting the O2 housing might be a good idea. Also making sure your wastegate is opening fully when it's supposed to will be a good thing to look at. Sometimes a faulty manual boost controller can be the culprit for such extreme cases of boost creep.
Somethings you'll want to check over..
-Boost leak test http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html If you're using the stock side mount IC it is possible for the motor to pull the UICP off of the intercooler when you go WOT and when you let off the pipe will magically pop back on. The cure, rebolt it down.
-Spark plugs. I know you said you checked them and they're not fouled. Make sure they're NGK BPR6ES. Make sure the gap is set at .028". Also, make sure your plug wires have not gone bad on you. Anything other than NGK BPR6ES plugs are unacceptable and need to be replaced with the correct ones.

Post back the results of your boost leak test. How long did you hold 20 psi for?

 

[SRiz]

right now I have wastegate acuator hooked up right to compressor so its not the acuator.. I have 3'exhaust it is known to creep...did a boost leak test nothin.... im using the supra smic with pipeing that will never come off...spark plugs are BPR6Es at .28... held 20 psi till red line.... anything else?

 

[jaredgsx]

No, that's incorrect. That much creep is not normal. Especially for the minimal amount of modifications you have done to the vehicle. Porting the O2 housing might be a good idea. Also making sure your wastegate is opening fully when it's supposed to will be a good thing to look at. Sometimes a faulty manual boost controller can be the culprit for such extreme cases of boost creep.
Somethings you'll want to check over..
-Boost leak test http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html If you're using the stock side mount IC it is possible for the motor to pull the UICP off of the intercooler when you go WOT and when you let off the pipe will magically pop back on. The cure, rebolt it down.
-Spark plugs. I know you said you checked them and they're not fouled. Make sure they're NGK BPR6ES. Make sure the gap is set at .028". Also, make sure your plug wires have not gone bad on you. Anything other than NGK BPR6ES plugs are unacceptable and need to be replaced with the correct ones.

Post back the results of your boost leak test. How long did you hold 20 psi for?

he is right, i think its a bad boost leak

 

[ddavisaf]

right now I have wastegate acuator hooked up right to compressor so its not the acuator.. I have 3'exhaust it is known to creep...did a boost leak test nothin.... im using the supra smic with pipeing that will never come off...spark plugs are BPR6Es at .28... held 20 psi till red line.... anything else?

You've got some misconceptions that we need to clarify first and foremost.
First, just because the wastegate actuator is hooked up directly to the compressor's vacuum source does not mean the actuator is not bad. It may be bad and have nothing to do with the amount of vacuum being supplied to the actuator. You need to run compressed air directly to the actuator and make sure that it opens fully when the air is applied.
Second, just because you have a 3" exhaust doesn't mean it's normal to creep 6 psi.
Third, A SSMIC isn't going to automatically hold your piping on for you.
Fourth, you held 20 psi until redline, so you think you don't have a boost leak?

You're doing serious damage to your engine. You are running your car extremely lean.
You need to pay attention to what I'm saying and heed my advice or you will be doing some engine work soon.

You need to re-run your boost leak test and explain how you're doing it. You need to switch out your manual boost controller. See if it's leaking air allowing the boost to creep more than normal. And test your wastegate actuator.

Post back with how long your car held 20 psi during a boost leak test. You want it to hold 20psi for at least 30 seconds.

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Seems like you hooked up your wastegate actuator wrong. Get a MBC and hook the actuator vac source to it. The other side "T" it off to the BOV line. A 14B I doubt can hold 20 psi to redline I believe it drops down because it can't flow enough. It is not as bad as the T-25 which holds like 10 psi at 7000 rpm. However even 18-20 psi even at mid RPM is a lot of boost and you need bigger fuel injectors.

 

[punkak2]

i have almost the same problem only mine is at 4-5k rpm...just got it back from the shop and only opened it up couple times.....

 

[ddavisaf]

i have almost the same problem only mine is at 4-5k rpm...just got it back from the shop and only opened it up couple times.....

Start your own thread and I'll be happy to walk you through your own steps. It gets confusing for other people when we try and diagnose two different problems in one thread. PM me your new thread and we'll get ya taken care of

 

[SRiz]

did test at 20 psi no leaks and held it for 35-40 sec... I KNOW its not the acuator cause i did test it before putting it on the car and it opens fully... not 90 degrees cause of the stupid housing sux but ne way im getting a bullseye exhaust housing with 38mm wastegate hole... i dont think ill be creeping on this or any other turbo i get in the future with this....