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Blew off intercooler pipe - now car is undriveable after repair

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SFrymyah

10+ Year Contributor
53
0
Sep 29, 2008
Mooresville, North Carolina
Last night, i installed a hard lower intercooler pipe since i still had the stock piece with my FMIC setup. The only piece removed during the install was the intake and the recirc tube.

On the way home, the coupler that connects to the turbo side of the IC blew off. I was too far from my friends house to turn back and not in a good place to stop, so i made the mistake of limping it home, which was about a 3-4 mile ride. As soon as i pulled in the driveway it was on the jack and the coupler was reconnected.

This morning on the way to work i drove the car again and made it about 3 miles before it sputtered and cut off while rolling in the middle of traffic. As i was trying to get it to refire it was back firing pretty bad. Once i got it started i limped it up about 35 feet to a pull off where it ran fine. I assumed it was a fault the ECU was trying to figure out given the drive home from the night before. I drove another 4 miles where it ran great the whole time. On the last little stretch before work, i did about a 2/3 throttle pull. It made boost like normal, but when I let off the throttle it started to back fire again.

It would continue to backfire at random or anytime the turbo began to create any amount of boost. The problem got consistently worse as i drove the car eventually to the point where i couldn't get off of my street thats less than 1/8 of a mile long.

I got home and pulled the spark plugs to find that all 4 have been fouled out. I also reattached the stock LICP with no luck. The 4 plugs got replaced with NGK BPR7ES's. I replaced every coupler on the new LICP also. I did a 3/4 throttle pull and it felt like a coupler blew off again. Luckily, i was 00right by my street this time so i let it idle back the house where we found all of the couplers were still in place. To be safe, i stuck the stock LICP back on and now i can barely get out of my driveway without the car stumbling and backfiring.

I pulled the spark plugs again and i found this on #2. It looks like the spark is jumping really hard.
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please help guys. I'm at a total stand still and i really dont want to toss parts at it. My mods are: FP T28, rewired fuel pump, 3 inch catback, test pipe, apex'i downpipe, tubular o2, injen intake, Greddy FMIC with long route piping. I know i have a boost leak coming from a very minor crack in the intake manifold, but it showed up LONG before this problem arose. Thanks guys!
 

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when it starts to back fire did you ever notice to looking at your boost gauge to see if it was spooling up, if it was then that boost leak has got a lot worse
 
when it starts to back fire did you ever notice to looking at your boost gauge to see if it was spooling up, if it was then that boost leak has got a lot worse

it starts to backfire before it ever builds boost. i can get it to do it sitting in the driveway with no load on the engine now too.

I just dont understand how it can be a boost leak if I was able to do two pulls and get into boost
 
Its very possible that you could have jumped time. It all depends on amount of boost how hard a pull you were doing when the coupler went etc. I was having this issue with my IC piping as well. The trick is make sure the piping fits loosely and isnt in a bind before you tighten everything up.


At an 18psi pull I had IC piping blow off it backfired hard enough through the intake to blow my boost gauge fitting off as well as the FP vacuum line. Double check timing and perform another BLT. I doubt its anything major

Kolby
 
Its very possible that you could have jumped time. It all depends on amount of boost how hard a pull you were doing when the coupler went etc. I was having this issue with my IC piping as well. The trick is make sure the piping fits loosely and isnt in a bind before you tighten everything up.


At an 18psi pull I had IC piping blow off it backfired hard enough through the intake to blow my boost gauge fitting off as well as the FP vacuum line. Double check timing and perform another BLT. I doubt its anything major

Kolby

with the leak i know about, i'm pretty much never getting over 12 psi. It hangs around 11 and my target is 15. I will check all of that stuff though, i havent given that any consideration.
 
You did hook up the MAF and the recirc hose didnt you? Just double checking. Sometimes little things can have the same symptoms of Major issues. Diagnosing cars is like a doctor diagnosing a patient. The more pertinent info the better for the both :)


Kolby
 
You did hook up the MAF and the recirc hose didnt you? Just double checking. Sometimes little things can have the same symptoms of Major issues. Diagnosing cars is like a doctor diagnosing a patient. The more pertinent info the better for the both :)


Kolby

yes, both were hooked up.


For a little while, i just assumed the recirc tube was slipping off, but i got that handled and still had issues.
 
So listen to this guys. I did the boost leak test today to find that the nipple on the compressor side of the turbo had come unplugged. I capped it off and put a zip tie on it to make sure it stuck. Tested it again and the boost leak was gone, except, of course, for the on in the intake manifold. I buttoned everything back up and went for a test drive.


The car got into boost at low throttle, but i wanted to let it warm up before i let it eat. Drove a couple miles and tried to do a pull and right as the car started moving it cut off and would not refire. The fuel pump cuts on and the car turns over just fine, but i dont have any spark. All i can figure is that the coil has gone out now. in any event, we tested everything possible on the side of the road with no luck, so we pulled the bumper before the rain got here and waited on AAA. Its sitting in the driveway now. Thank god for the beater.
 
Sounds like some good ole' spark blowout to me.

I'd imagine if you pulled those plugs again after your last pull they're ###### black. You should be running rich anyways with a constant boostleak @ the manifold since the MAF thinks she's getting more air than it really is.
 
what car is this anyways? 1g or 2g? or 2g 6bolt swap??


It sounds like timing BUT lets hope not. Im hoping its a 1g. CAS would be the first culprit. BUT Im assuming its a 2g because the 14b doesnt have a nipple on the compressor housing.. :hmm: why are you capping the nipple off on the t25? You should run a line from the nipple to the WGA. Seperate line to the BOV. IF your running and MBC it should go between the WGA and the nipple on the compressor housing. If its T'd to the BOV and WGA running the MBC in between please fix it.

Kolby
 
Ignition problems I've found always mask themselves to look like other problems. These components can be tested though to rule out ignition problems. Maybe check the wires, and work beck from there.

If you ran the engine for that long with that pipe disconnected I'd also take the battery cable off, and let the ECU reset. For that little time the ecu may have adjusted which explains the white plugs.
 
The whole situation sounds like two problems and one of the problems your trying to blame for causing the other. The bad one does sound like a timing issue.
 
Check your timing, check ignition components, then check fuel related components.

Another thing you say back fire, is this from the tail pipe or from the intake?
 
what car is this anyways? 1g or 2g? or 2g 6bolt swap??


It sounds like timing BUT lets hope not. Im hoping its a 1g. CAS would be the first culprit. BUT Im assuming its a 2g because the 14b doesnt have a nipple on the compressor housing.. :hmm: why are you capping the nipple off on the t25? You should run a line from the nipple to the WGA. Seperate line to the BOV. IF your running and MBC it should go between the WGA and the nipple on the compressor housing. If its T'd to the BOV and WGA running the MBC in between please fix it.

Kolby

He has a FP T28
 
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