car popped, stuttered and died..need some advice

[JRodsm]

Well I was driving my car a couple days ago, driving it normally and randomly I hear two back to back pops. The car drove fine for the next few days with no problem. Yesterday I had to make about a 45 minute drive and it was fine the whole way. Got off the interstate and came to a redlight, no problem. Took off and about 3rd gear it started sputtering the rpms were jumping. When I stopped at the next redlight it just cut off and wouldn't crank. I let it sit for a minute and it started back up fine to pull it off the road but died once again. The car sat for about 4 hours and I came back it started fine, idled good for about 30 seconds the backfired and died. Haven't gotten it started since. I've been reseaching but nothing helps me understand why it started but then just die, twice. I just had the head off to do a valve job, new valves and guides, timing belt about a month ago. I haven't checked any fuses or spark yet. I dont understand if it jumped time how it would start up but then die..and twice at that. But im checking all that later today I just needed a little advice and understanding. Sorry for the long story

 

[bling5tatus]

Check your timing marks.

 

[Jordanbutter]

This won't explain the rpms jumping but mine did the samething when the cam angel sensor went bad. Started/Died Started/Died sat over night drove 20 miles then Started/Died again. Just a thought.

 

[JRodsm]

I replaced that when the head was taken off. I didn't replace the crankshaft sensor so could that possibly have have gone bad? The CEL did come on but I was told to disconnect my battery to reset my ecu thinking it may have just been something with that

 

[bostonhatcher]

This won't explain the rpms jumping but mine did the samething when the cam angel sensor went bad. Started/Died Started/Died sat over night drove 20 miles then Started/Died again. Just a thought.

Good lead but also check your Throttle Position Sensor on your Throttle Body.

 

[JRodsm]

How can i check them to see if they're good? My CEL hasn't come back on to be able to find out which sensor it might be. Also the day before I had my oil changed and when i turn the key to on my oil light is on. Maybe something to do with that I dont know..

 

[JRodsm]

Turns out my crankshaft sensor went bad. Along with my timing getting off about a tooth. Put new spark plugs in and it runs wonderful now! Thanks for all the help!

 

[95 'clipse RS]

for future reference, that oil light comes on when there is no, or too little oil pressure. so when the car is cranking, or running, it should not be on. the only time is should be on is when the car is not running. but it should turn off when the oil pressure builds up. like when the car is in the process of being started or after its started.

glad to hear youve gotten everything worked out though

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

I had the same problem... Car started then died for like 10 times at once it started idled at 1100 and then died started again i drove it for 5 minutes heard a pop then died felt a loss of power then it died started back up no power parked it and now it wont start Where should I start?

 

[95 'clipse RS]

check timing marks, then run a compression test, i would also do a leakdown test. that should get ya headed in the right direction. but make sure, the timing is correct before turning over the engine.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Im going to have my dads mechanic come and look at timing and do the compression test how do you do a compression test? What needs un plugged?

 

[blueninteytwo]

get an engine compression tester, then pull the fuses for the coil pack and fuel injectors.

unscrew spark plug #1 and screw in hose that goes to the gauge. these kits will come with different hoses to fit different spark plug holes. make sure it's tight.

have friend crank motor for 5-10 seconds and make note of highest readout. write down on piece of paper. unscrew tester, replace plug.

repeat for other 3 cylinders.

look at readings. double check with manual of some sort for specs. #s are usually 170 new, servicable limit of 120 PSI

there shouldn't be more than 15% difference b/w adjacent cylinders. ie. #1 is 160PSI, #2 is 120PSI

 

[95 'clipse RS]

fuel and ignition systems, plugs need taken out, and you would ususally want your car at operating temp when this is done, but in this scenario i would skip that. then just make sure timing is correct, with fuel and ignition unplugged crank the car for about ten or so seconds after the oil pressure light goes out, then run the test. only thing else involved is screwing the compression guage into the spark plug hole and cranking it til the needle on the guage doesnt go up any further. the psi should be around 178 psi for standard, service limit is 133psi, and difference between cylinders is 14psi. so if its like 170 175 169 171 thats good, if they are like 160 141 176 137 or all down around 133 you need head or engine work. and if you get 170 170 0 170 or something to that effect, the 0 would indicate a bent valve in the head. hope this helps