Car is upping boost on it's own

[eboy0]

So I got one of those ebay manual boost controllers, http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/20061049/Images/DA-BOOST-CONTROLLER-BLACK.jpg
After searching over and over, i tried to set it up of 2 ways, running a T between manifold + BOV which didn't work. Also tried the compressor housing nipple and WG. Both ways didn't work, even if i close the mbc completely i am still able to get boost, around 11psi, what i notice is my BOV doesn't go off at all.
So I got kind of disappointed and decided to put everything back the way it was.
I forgot to mention I did the BCS mod(remove the inside plastic thing) a while back. So I set it all back to normal. As I start heading down the alley I notice my gauge was reading 10 psi @ like 3000rpm, so i give it full WOT and my psi shot up to 17-19 range... and as this happened my piping blew off, all pipes have now been retightened, and it still is around that range, my Greddy Type S BOV sounds monsterous, it's so loud now.
Any idea why this happened? I thought normal boost was like 10-11 psi + 2 for the BCS mod?
What's going on?

Setup now is, Mani>BOV>compressor nipple.
Air filter tube>BCS>WG

What's going on?

 

[blkwidow]

I think you could have installed it backwards. Do you have like an aftermarket exhaust?

 

[eboy0]

Nope stock exhaust, stock T-25 turbo. Mostly stock.
How likely is it i'll spin a bearing on the T-25 if i continue to run it @ those PSI?(obviously i dont want to, but i can't seem to set the boost lower)

 

[silver bullit]

You have it hookd up wrong. The bottom nipple on boost controler goes to nipple off j-pipe. The top one goes to bcs and the wastegate in a threeway conector. The other bcs nipple goes to air can.

 

[blkwidow]

Well, if you continue to run those boost levels, then killing your turbo will be very likely.

 

[silver bullit]

Do you have a boost gauge?

 

[eboy0]

You have it hookd up wrong. The bottom nipple on boost controler goes to nipple off j-pipe. The top one goes to bcs and the wastegate in a threeway conector. The other bcs nipple goes to air can.

Hmmm I guess there's a 3rd way to set it up, i'll definately go give this a try. Though i swear i remember reading something along the lines of "disconnect the BCS, you won't be needing it anymore". I'll go give your way a try and post back with results. Thanks

 

[eboy0]

Well, if you continue to run those boost levels, then killing your turbo will be very likely.

Thanks for the info, might need a bigger turbo huh?

Do you have a boost gauge?

Yes i have a 30/30 autometer boost gauge.

 

[blkwidow]

Hahaha!!!! Yea I wish it were that easy. If you want to upgrade though, then everything else will needed to be upgraded. Make this turbo last as long as it can, while you get your fuel system and fuel management upgraded. That way when you do blow that turbo, you can jus swap it out for a bigger one.

 

[eboy0]

Hahaha!!!! Yea I wish it were that easy. If you want to upgrade though, then everything else will needed to be upgraded. Make this turbo last as long as it can, while you get your fuel system and fuel management upgraded. That way when you do blow that turbo, you can jus swap it out for a bigger one.

Ofcourse, i ment i'll begin planning for the unfortunate future, hopefully i can get the boost to resonable levels...

 

[silver bullit]

Every page i visted when i had this prob was a problem in itself all the info was to vague or did not make sense. I did it like this because if you do not have suporting mods to measure the boost/wastegate it would mess with the car its like unpluging the bcs once it is unpluged it sees that no boost or pressure +/- so it thinks it is at idle but when you start boosting it still is thinking what the bcs it saying and all that did was make my car run to much gas.

 

[silver bullit]

What is your car auto or stick? I have a t-25 just incase you accendently blow that one up, and when it does dont drive it or youll put metal from the turbo into the oil and shaftplay will put metal into intake thru exhaust. I know cause i try 25 psi on my 92 and the 14b loved it till the intake hose got sucked in, and i thought for 2 months f- it it be fine cause i needed a new motor anyway.

 

[91 Turbo Mitsu]

I am surprised no one else said this but if you still have that manual boost controller throw it away because they are unpredictable.You need to have one that is a ball and spring setup. I dont remember if it is on this site or vfaq site but if you search you can find out how to build one for yourself for about $10.00.

 

[eboy0]

I am surprised no one else said this but if you still have that manual boost controller throw it away because they are unpredictable.You need to have one that is a ball and spring setup. I dont remember if it is on this site or vfaq site but if you search you can find out how to build one for yourself for about $10.00.

Well it doesn't matter really at this point if i have the MBC or not, since i dont really care at this point, I want to get my normal boost levels back, which were around 11 psi. Maybe once i feel comfortable again, i'll start playing with boost again.

The car is a 5-speed, and thanks for looking out

I tried hooking up the MBC as adviced above (tee off BCS and WG to top nipple of MBC, and tried bottom aswell, switching off) neither way worked, I closed the MBC completely, still have 17-19 psi boost, but what I notice is my BOV sputters horribly when i did this, since I'm using a Greddy Type S, it needs a pressure source for the bottom nipple, which i can't provide since it was hooked up to compressor nipple before(which is now going to MBC).

Anywho, question still remains, why can't I get my boost back to normal?
MBC or not, the boost still strikes a rediculous 19 psi, only diffrence is BOV goes off extremely loudly w/o MBC.
Setup stays as followed: IM>BOV>compressor nipple
Aircan>BCS>WG

 

[silver bullit]

I have a home made one i am selling in the ads on here, but the boost goes from 18-30+ psi so thats not gonna work. where did you get it from? ebay?

 

[silver bullit]

Buy one off this site in the venders page or check the classifieds.

 

[eboy0]

I have a home made one i am selling in the ads on here, but the boost goes from 18-30+ psi so thats not gonna work. where did you get it from? ebay?

Yes, it's an ebay one.

 

[MrBoxx]

Where do I start?

Okay, first off, of all the problematic MBC's I've seen, that particular model (Turbosmart knock-off) you bought seems to be the most common one. Get rid of it. Get a TurboXS, Hallman, JoeP. or some other reputable MBC that DSM'ers have had good luck with. That particular boost controller that you bought doesn't seem to want to work well on our cars, especially since it appears to want to be tee'd into a vacuum line like the BOV line, which isn't what you want to do.

Second: Leave the BOV line alone. By "IM>BOV>compressor nipple" what does that mean? Did you somehow tee the BOV line to the compressor nipple AND the IM? Leave that line alone. It should go Intake manifold>BOV. Nothing in between.

Third: If you want to limit your boost, just run a single vacuum line between your pressure source (J-pipe/compressor housing nipple) to the wastegate actuator nipple. This should limit your boost to under 11psi.

 

[eboy0]

Where do I start?

Okay, first off, of all the problematic MBC's I've seen, that particular model (Turbosmart knock-off) you bought seems to be the most common one. Get rid of it. Get a TurboXS, Hallman, JoeP. or some other reputable MBC that DSM'ers have had good luck with. That particular boost controller that you bought doesn't seem to want to work well on our cars, especially since it appears to want to be tee'd into a vacuum line like the BOV line, which isn't what you want to do.

Second: Leave the BOV line alone. By "IM>BOV>compressor nipple" what does that mean? Did you somehow tee the BOV line to the compressor nipple AND the IM? Leave that line alone. It should go Intake manifold>BOV. Nothing in between.

Third: If you want to limit your boost, just run a single vacuum line between your pressure source (J-pipe/compressor housing nipple) to the wastegate actuator nipple. This should limit your boost to under 11psi.

First:It's already in the trash.... will look into getting one of the suggested MBC above.

Second:The Greddy Type S has a second nipple below the one which runs to the IM.
"The GReddy valve has two fittings for small vacuum lines on it. The top fitting is for the same hose that went to the original stock bypass valve, the hose that goes to the intake manifold. The lower fitting is normally left open. It is a vent for the lower chamber of the valve.

On some cars with large turbos, compressor surge at light throttle lifts can be further reduced by connecting the lower fitting to a pressure source. Typically a fitting is added to an I/C pipe between the turbo outlet and the valve."
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/rreicpipeinstructions.htm
When i don't attach this second line to a pressure source(compressor nipple) the BOV sputters at any PSI.... weird?

Third: So i should run a vacuum hose from compressor housing to WG w/o the BCS?

 

[MrBoxx]

Most people leave the second, lower nipple on the Type S uncapped. If you absolutely need a pressure source going to this to keep the BOV happy, I would almost suggest creating it's own dedicated vacuum line by drilling/tapping into an intercooler pipe and installing a nipple fitting. I don't have much experience with the Type S, though, so someone who has/had this problem may want to chime in with their experiences.

Yes, in a pinch you can run a vacuum line straight from the turbo/intercooler pipe to the wastegate actuator and give yourself limited boost. It bypasses the BCS completely.