Car idling low, no power

[Austin06]

Okay, so after getting the car up and running again. after it sitting for a few months, this is the problem I having now and finding it hard to understand..

So, I went out driving it around for about 20 minutes, ran pretty good..boosted fine, idled okay. Although, the vaccum seemed low to me, about 1415 in/hg. The next morning, started it up. headed for the highway to go to work, and bam..CEL comes on and the car starts running like crap..no power, verrrry low idle, and the engine/exhaust sound is muffled, although it isn't misfiring, the engine still revs smooth but very slow at the same time. What I did notice was my a/f gauge lights just dissapeared. It's not smoking of any kind. Idling very low. Vaccuum reading about 10in/hg at idle.

So, just a few minutes ago, I put my palm on it, and noticed that when I revved the engine up, the palm was reading lets say 3500 rpms and my tach on the dash is reading about half that, kinda bouncing up and down.

Which brings me to why I'm confused. I attempted to read the CEL by doing the test with buzzer, but can't seem to get anything consistant with that. I'm using a 12v buzzer, it makes a very faint buzz and then louds ones, so I'm not sure which is supposed to be a short and a long.

Any help on these syntoms would be great. Thanks.

 

[blueninteytwo]

well as far as the codes go, the buzzes should all be the same loudness, but a long beep, then the codes themselves.

when i first got my car, i had a sort of similar problem, the tach read all wonky, it was slow and made no power (and the exaust would get RED HOT while driving) . tried a bunch of stuff and finally for sh*ts and giggles tested the 12V reference at the MAF and found like 7V.... so i swapped out the ECU and it's worked ever since.

maybe that could be some help, maybe not. kinda sounds ECU-ish for the problem....

 

[Austin06]

okay, so I went out and bought the reccomended buzzer. I hooked it up and got the long and short beeps I was looking for. Now I just need someone to help me understand what I have here for a code. I believe I had a code number 44 which translate to a ignition coil, ignition power transistor unit.

The beeps went as follows: L=long and S=short

L-L-L-L-S-S-S-S-L-L-L-L-S-S-S-S and so on, consistantly the same.

After trying to understand the directions from vfaq, I believe that is a code 44, but I would like someone to correct me if I'm misinterpted the directions.

And possibly give me some stuff to check for that code. Thanks.

 

[blueninteytwo]

yah, that's a code 44.... i love those easy codes, my code i keep getting is 11 (02 sensor) so it's L-S-L-S..... though if I remember right, it's 1 long beep before the codes start to come up....

to diagnose a code 44, i would start with plugs and wires. make sure they're ok.

then i would check the coil itself. it's in a really bad position, so you might have to pull it. testing procedure is usually a resistance check between the windings, as the engine is bank fire... consult your manual (you have one, right?)

for specs you can try:

1. Mitchells or Alldata
2. Haynes manual
3. the auto parts stores are now starting to put some of that stuff online, and if i recall correctly either autozone or advance auto parts will test it for you.
4. search the forums

if that comes out OK, then test the power transistors.... that's likely a resistance check also, or maybe you can pin the wire and make sure it's showing voltage/no voltage. there's 2 of those bad boys and one fires cyl 3, cyl 1, the other fires cyl 2, cyl 4.

although i'm thinking a bad transistor would make the car not run period, as i'm pretty sure you can't move the car on 2 cylinders. I would def. check the coil first.

to explain the short version of bank fire, the ecu sends a signal to the transistor, transistor sends its signal to the coil, coil fires.

if the coil is bad, it could be firing on 3 cylinders and the car would still move, albeit poorly. if a transistor is bad, then 1/2 of the cylinders wouldn't get signal and therefore fire. it's highly unlikely that you'd be able to start the car on 2 cylinders, let alone move it.

 

[blueninteytwo]

actually scatch what i said. i didn't bother to check, but you have a 1990, which is different.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/44773-90-91-power-transistor-same.html

5-pins are 90s, 91-99 use a 8-pin connector with 7-pins. The coil packs have a 4-pin connector versus a 3-pin too. You can, however, use the packs themselves out of another year.

But 90s PT are different than 91-99. (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/21596-power-transistor-ignition-module.html)

well the theory still holds, but just be aware that the 1990 models used a different transistor, so it will probably have different pins to check... when finding the appropriate test specs, make sure you're getting info for the '90 model year.

 

[Austin06]

Okay, I understand all of that.

When they say Ignition coil, they are referring to the coil pack as an assembly correct? And what do they mean by ignition power transisitor unit? Is that a seperate part, or the same put in diiferent terms?

Thanks again, -Austin

 

[16G AWD]

Did you find out the issue? I've got the same exact issues but mine has been going on since i got my car back from being rebuilt. Also, my car never threw a cel.

 

[super97gst]

im curious about this as well. my gst has been down for a week or so trying to figure this out. 16g tsi, when you crank you car does the engine shake real bad like its only running on 1/2 the cylinders?? mine started this up and the a/f guage doesnt read any lights, or maybe just the most lean light. it also wont rev up at all. just like the guy was saying above. the tach is only reading like 12 or 1400 rpm's and thats all she'll do. my car isnt even drivable until i fix this, so i would like to figure out something. if nebody has an idea lets hear it.

 

[VEX]

Okay, so after getting the car up and running again. after it sitting for a few months, this is the problem I having now and finding it hard to understand..

So, I went out driving it around for about 20 minutes, ran pretty good..boosted fine, idled okay. Although, the vaccum seemed low to me, about 1415 in/hg. The next morning, started it up. headed for the highway to go to work, and bam..CEL comes on and the car starts running like crap..no power, verrrry low idle, and the engine/exhaust sound is muffled, although it isn't misfiring, the engine still revs smooth but very slow at the same time. What I did notice was my a/f gauge lights just dissapeared. It's not smoking of any kind. Idling very low. Vaccuum reading about 10in/hg at idle.

So, just a few minutes ago, I put my palm on it, and noticed that when I revved the engine up, the palm was reading lets say 3500 rpms and my tach on the dash is reading about half that, kinda bouncing up and down.

Which brings me to why I'm confused. I attempted to read the CEL by doing the test with buzzer, but can't seem to get anything consistant with that. I'm using a 12v buzzer, it makes a very faint buzz and then louds ones, so I'm not sure which is supposed to be a short and a long.

Any help on these syntoms would be great. Thanks.

Thats not similar to what I'm experiencing, its EXACTLY what I'm experiencing. Any resolutions to your problems? I've tested the coil pack, power transistor and swapped ECU's. Coil pack and power transistor speced out fine and there was no change when the ECU was switch. Brand new NGK plugs, gapped at .032 and newish plug wires. The only thing I haven't tried is switching plug wires. This is also on a 90' model.

Does anyone have any input on this issue?

 

[16G AWD]

im curious about this as well. my gst has been down for a week or so trying to figure this out. 16g tsi, when you crank you car does the engine shake real bad like its only running on 1/2 the cylinders?? mine started this up and the a/f guage doesnt read any lights, or maybe just the most lean light. it also wont rev up at all. just like the guy was saying above. the tach is only reading like 12 or 1400 rpm's and thats all she'll do. my car isnt even drivable until i fix this, so i would like to figure out something. if nebody has an idea lets hear it.

No it does'nt shake bad, it starts up like normal and has a normal idle for like 10 seconds then the idle just moves every couple seconds. I'm thinking i got a sensor problem.

 

[Unatco_talon]

I hope someone can help you, im getting the same problem with my car

 

[schweermo523]

had this problem once last November...and having it again now.
I'm in a 93 talon es.
First of all, check your plugs and wires. (I mean visually check for spark.
next, if you're missing spark, check your Ignition coil, its located behind your head.
After that, if your ignition coil is good, check your PTU (Power Transistor).
its secured on the block. The wire that plugs into your ignition coil splits and goes to your PTU.
If that's good, check your ECU (Behind your stereo). Pull it out, open it up and look for yellowish leak looking things. Also, smell it. It may smell like sulfur if its bad.

The first time, I had no spark on 1 or 4. Replaced Coil pack and it was just fine.
Last Thursday, same problem. Coil pack was still under warranty...so I swapped it and nothing.
New Plugs, tested wires, swapped ECU's and haven't checked to see if that worked yet. If it didn't, my next venture is the PTU.

List of things it could be:
Plugs
Wires
Coil Pack
Power Transistor
ECU

keep me updated, I'm curious.

 

[wildfire77]

just started having the same problem a week ago... car is running on 2 cylinders (no spark in 1 and 4), coil pack resistance checks out fine, not sure about ignition control module. haven't checked the ECU yet...

a little more info... new magnecores, NGK bpr6es's and timing belt, about 2 moths ago...

Any updates anyone?

 

[wildfire77]

So after doing a lot more reading i decided to replace my crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, coil pack on the misfiring cylinders, and I'm waiting for an ignition control module to come in on Tuesday to check if it is that. If it isn't that, it could be my ECM.

something I've noticed about my car is, after i've cranked on the ignition to get her started, which she dose, and i shut her off there is a weird clicking, electrical noise coming from under my hood and a fried electrical smell... this only happens when the key is still in the ACC. position and stops once i turn it off. it also only happens after i have started the car not when i put the key into the the acc or on position from off. Any thoughts or resolutions to this problem of running on 2 cylinders?

 

[Hawksfootball29]

I am also having the same problem.. No spark on 1 and 4 and my DSMLink reads RPMs twice as high as the Tach does. Wasn't getting spark at the coil so i replaced it and same thing. Tested the CAS and it seemed good but I replaced it anyway and still same thing. I tested the Power Transistor and it test ok. Im gunna pull the ECU and check it out but other then that I dont know what else to check. Has anyone resolved this issue?

 

[Enforcer30]

I am having the same issue. I found 2 burnt valves, had the head redone and now it will run fine until it is hot. If i shut it off and restart it will run like crap. everything is new on the head.

I pulled the ECU and 2 caps are blown and one of the circut boards is burnt. So I can only assume that is a big part of my problem

I have a new ECU comming today, I will let you know how it works out.

 

[420sx]

I am also having the same problem.. No spark on 1 and 4 and my DSMLink reads RPMs twice as high as the Tach does. Wasn't getting spark at the coil so i replaced it and same thing. Tested the CAS and it seemed good but I replaced it anyway and still same thing. I tested the Power Transistor and it test ok. Im gunna pull the ECU and check it out but other then that I dont know what else to check. Has anyone resolved this issue?

Power Transistor was the cause of this problem for me. I replaced it, and it fixed my problem. You can pick up a power transistor here on the forums for about $15, id definitely recommend giving it a try.

 

[Hawksfootball29]

I am having the same issue. I found 2 burnt valves, had the head redone and now it will run fine until it is hot. If i shut it off and restart it will run like crap. everything is new on the head.

I pulled the ECU and 2 caps are blown and one of the circut boards is burnt. So I can only assume that is a big part of my problem

I have a new ECU comming today, I will let you know how it works out.

Ya let me Know if that resolves it because i haven't had the time to pull my ecu and check.

Power Transistor was the cause of this problem for me. I replaced it, and it fixed my problem. You can pick up a power transistor here on the forums for about $15, id definitely recommend giving it a try.

Transistor order and it should be here by the end of the week. Ill let you know how it turns out

 

[Hawksfootball29]

Ok got new transistor and still the same thing. I guess CPU is the only thing left to check.