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Car failure

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napkinthief

15+ Year Contributor
1,125
16
Apr 16, 2005
Cliffside park, New Jersey
I just had massive car failure. I was getting an oil change tommorrow morning from a friend, and already had the parts. I heard a little knocking kinda noise coming from the engine, but it was very faint and I wasn't sure it was from me. I was going into the city and as I was crossing the bridge, the knocking got louder and louder, and definetly noticable from inside and outside the car, even with sound all the way up. I thought it was the oil so I drove to the next station and put in 2 quarts of 10W40. I usually use 10W30, but anyway, the knocking went away if my rpms were 1000-2500, but would come back higher than that. After a bit of driving, the knokcing was completly gone up to 4500 rpms, but then it was downhill. Knocking just got louder and louder, and on my way back on West Side Highway, the car stopped in the left lane. Engine, Oil, and Battery lights went on for a few secs, then car went off completley. Luckily, there were no cars behind me or around me so I got to the right side safely, started the car up again and drove to the next shoulder, which was about 15-25 seconds away, then the car went out completely. No lights, radio, nothing. Called tow truck and now my car is stuck in the bronx. He said maybe alternator, maybe worse, anyone here have a diagnosis?
 
Alternator bearings/bushings get loud when they are going out. I have had many cars where the bad alternator sounds like a harsh knocking noise. Hopefully, all that you need is to replace you alternator. Put a voltmeter on the battery and see how many volts you have, and If you get it started, then check with the voltmeter the voltage at the back of the alternator. You should see around 14.5 volts at the back of the alternator when charging and you should see about 12.6 volts at the battery when it is sitting with the car off.
 
anyone know average cost of new alternator and w.e else it needs to get working again?

new or used?
 
just a question,but when your car shut off did you have to jump the car to get it started again ,and did you check the oil before you added the two quarts.the reason i say this is normally when an alternator goes bad and your driving it will run the battery completly down before the car dies.also it sounds wierd that the knocking went away when you added oil.I would think it was an internal engine problem.
 
jameswemm said:
just a question,but when your car shut off did you have to jump the car to get it started again ,and did you check the oil before you added the two quarts.the reason i say this is normally when an alternator goes bad and your driving it will run the battery completly down before the car dies.also it sounds wierd that the knocking went away when you added oil.I would think it was an internal engine problem.


agreed. you said you usually use 10w30, then why would you ever mix it with 10w40!!!??!

so when you added the two quarts, what was the oil level at? was there even any on the dipstick? If you were two quarts of oil low, then the knocking sound you heard was most likely coming from the engine because of a lack of lubrication, not the alternator. Oil level is critical in cars and is something that cannot be ignored.

If you have access to a lift and want to get a ball park idea of what is wrong with your car, take off the oil pan and see what you find. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
i added the 10w40 because it was the only oil availible at the gas station and it was the only station i knew of in the area, and with the kncoking so loud i dind;t want to drive around and look for a another one

a mech said the engine is shot, and wants to replace it, but would not give me what was wrong with it, so im getting another mech to look at it
 
jameswemm said:
just a question,but when your car shut off did you have to jump the car to get it started again ,and did you check the oil before you added the two quarts.the reason i say this is normally when an alternator goes bad and your driving it will run the battery completly down before the car dies.also it sounds wierd that the knocking went away when you added oil.I would think it was an internal engine problem.



didn;t have to jump it, but jumping it after the 2nd time it went off didn;t get it started again

oil before i put the 2 in was barely noticable, just on the tip
after the 2 it wasn;t full, but it did have about 1/2 to full, guy was charging me 5 bucks a quart of his gas station brand sh!t


the knocking only went away if rpms were about 4000-4500 it was still there if i went higher
 
Well I hate to be the barer of bad noise, but your engine just may be shot. And you will have to replace it. When I was away on a 6wk deployment my lovely wife decided to put some 5qts of oil in the car when she saw the oil light come on. Than 2 days later it came back on and she put another 5qts. She didnt check the level b4 puttin any oil in it the 1st time nor did she check it the 2nd time. I had already did an oil change b4 I left to go underway. So when I return the engine had be flooded out. And I got the horrible loud AZZ Knockin sound. To make a long story short be prepared to get another engine. Mine cost me $2250. So shop around b4 purchasing, anything higher than $2450 is pushing it.
 
i am so happy i am under warranty, right now im waiting to see how much the warranty plan will pay to get the thing fixed. across my searches i found this

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g63motorsearch.htm

anyone see it before? lots of #s, and pretty good info

also i got a few more qs, i have an rs, but if i get the 4g63 turbo engine, will it fit right in?
is it better to just get the 4g63 engine or the GVR4 engine and put a turbo in myself, or get it with the turbo, how much am i looking at for the mech to replace the engine

what kind of differences will i get if i get the 2.4L instead of a 2.0L

if i get the same engine can i use the seized one for parts because other than it being seized nothing is broken
 
if your going to build an engine( or have a mechanic) i would not suggest using internals from a seized motor.it would be a pain to get it back together and something break from using a bad part. also if the engine seized up i would almost bet something is broke.i don't know exactly about part compatibility,but if you want the 4g63t .i would almost recommend letting the warranty fix that car and sell it .while its being fixed you could search for a taken care of turbo car.I see 1g all the time for less than $2,000.Just my opinion but i hope it helps.
 
napkinthief said:
also i got a few more qs, i have an rs, but if i get the 4g63 turbo engine, will it fit right in?
is it better to just get the 4g63 engine or the GVR4 engine and put a turbo in myself, or get it with the turbo, how much am i looking at for the mech to replace the engine

what kind of differences will i get if i get the 2.4L instead of a 2.0L

If it was that easy everyone would do it. If you're looking for boost, use some stronger internals on your new engine and buy a turbo kit for the 420A. Or sell your car when it's running and buy a turbo car.
 
ive given this whole thing a lot of thought and i am considering selling the car, but i dont know what im going to buy after i sell...i have some paints that i purchased to paint the calipers, rims, and muffler (heat resistant), and I was going to paint the interior panels, should I spend time doing this to raise value, or will it not change the value?
 
Don't waste your time. Painted interior looks like shit (unless of course you use factory color paint schemes. Painting rims and muffler WTF , would add absolutely no value to the car.
 
napkinthief said:
ive given this whole thing a lot of thought and i am considering selling the car, but i dont know what im going to buy after i sell...i have some paints that i purchased to paint the calipers, rims, and muffler (heat resistant), and I was going to paint the interior panels, should I spend time doing this to raise value, or will it not change the value?


I say sell it and get an AWD 1G. And keep an eye on your oil next time! Check it once a week or more from now on (after you get car going obviously).
 
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