Car Dies When Warm

[shockersTalon]

I totaly agree with him check your ignition system man.

 

[99BoostedRS]

Ok so i checked my spark plugs and they were wet and smelled like gas. So i headed off to autozone and bought a new coil pack (I was going to anyway because when i get a used car i usually replace stuff like that). I put in the new coil pack and got the same result with the car just a little bit different. The engine cranks but doesnt start, but the rpm needle will jump to around 150-250 rpms for about 5 secs then it will just die out. While this is happening the car is pretty much shaking along with the rpm needle as it goes up and down. By the way this was while i had jumper cables connected to another car because from all the trys before my battery went down to 11.5 volts. Also there was smoke coming out of my exhaust it had no color and it smelled like burnt fuel. The only reason i saw it is becuase of the headlights from the other car was pointed directly at my car(This was during the night). I checked the camshaft sensor and it's mounted on good the wiring is ok but i didn't check the crankshaft sensor yet.

 

[96TurboGS]

Ok, so you know you're getting fuel, compression now all you need is spark, with an exception. With your current spark plugs, you may want to change them because they may be fouled. With the cam sensor it will be harder to check due to the low voltage it outputs, but you can try and verify that the crank sensor has an oscillating voltage when cranking. (Blue / White stripe) The exception is that if your IAC isn't opening slightly (to let air in) when you crank then your car will not start. (A bad motor will not give you a CEL) To verify its working, pull the TB off and turn you're key from OFF then to ACC. You should be able to see the IAC go from its current open position to seating position then back to the open position in respect to the coolant sensor. (This is fairly quick) If it doesn't move down and remain slightly open then that's your problem. Also, make sure its free of composites. Another note: The middle pin on the coil pack should have 12v when cranking.

 

[99BoostedRS]

I went under the car to try and find the crankshaft postion sensor and i couldnt find it. But i found something that didnt make sense to me. When i looked at the back of the motor from under the car on the block there were 3 sensors. Only 2 of them were plugged in i tried reaching up there and lightly tugging on wires to see if i can find a disconnected connector or something and i couldn't. There was a sensor on the left of the block the middle of it and the right of it, the middle one was disconnected. Anybody know what this one could be? WTF

 

[rstare]

The one on the right, just above the oil filter, is the crank position sensor. The middle one is the knock sensor. And, the left one is the oil pressure sensor.

 

[99BoostedRS]

Would the disconnected knock sensor have anything to do with my start up issues?

 

[96TurboGS]

It should be able to start without it, but I would hook it up if it is unplugged as the ECU will run the engine conservative. I’m surprised you haven’t gotten a CEL for that...

 

[flying_eagle]

Well in my 5 years of small engine repair if you spray carb cleaner in the throttle body and it back fires then it is defanitly a ignition problem. So i would first check the crankshaft position sensor then your coil packs now Im not familiar with 2g but if it has a power transistor then you could be getting fire but just not enough, i was working on an 89 ford f150 and it had spark to the plugs and yes hits hard to the touch but it just wasnt enough to start it so try your igntion system first

 

[lauj2gdsm]

check your ecu. my bro had the same problems, switch ecu and now its perfect.

 

[99BoostedRS]

I checked my IAC valve and it was really slow when it opened or closed. I took it out and cleaned it and the same thing happened, so i'm guessing it was bad. i'm going to autozone to pick up a new one today. once i install it i'll get back on here and tell you guys the result.

 

[99BoostedRS]

Ok so i got a new iac valve and put it in. Then i went back to autozone and got a crankshaft position sensor. I went under the car tried to take out the sensor and the only the plastic part of the sensor came out and the metal part of it is now stuck in there. Does anyone know a way of taking it out? I tried grabing it with with pliers but i couldnt take it out.. If you guys need pics i'll try and take some.

 

[rstare]

It got stuck? You unbolt the one 10mm bolt that holds the sensor in place, correct?
If you did that you shouldn't even need pliers, it should just pull right out, with a little bit of muscle. The CAS is one solid piece, so I'm not sure how part of it would get stuck in. Look at my pics below to confirm that you're talking about the CAS, and then take a pic of yours so we can see exactly what's going on.

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[99BoostedRS]

Yea thats the exact one im taking about. I ubolted it and wen to pull it and only the plastic part come out where the wiring harness connects and the metal rod is still in the hole.

 

[rstare]

That's interesting, never had that happen to me before. Well... take off the oil pan and see if you can push it out.

 

[99BoostedRS]

It got stuck? You unbolt the one 10mm bolt that holds the sensor in place, correct?
If you did that you shouldn't even need pliers, it should just pull right out, with a little bit of muscle. The CAS is one solid piece, so I'm not sure how part of it would get stuck in. Look at my pics below to confirm that you're talking about the CAS, and then take a pic of yours so we can see exactly what's going on.

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This is what happened to mine...

Will a 99 eclipse N/T CPS sensor work if i get the wiring harness for it? (I returned the one from autozone because it had flat terminals instead of round ones)

 

[99BoostedRS]

I can finally say that my no start problem is resolved!!! I put in a new cps and wiring harness and it starts But there is another problem which im going to post in a new thread