Car amp not getting power, Why?

[S_Ranger]

I was regrounding my boost gauge the other day and didn't pay attention to the power source to my amp. I have a kill switch for it and I had it off so I didn't notice it until the next day. Anyway, now the amp isn't turning on. When I take the ground out the red protection light comes on. I don't know why it isn't getting any power. Ground is good, the fuse on the amp is good, Connections are all secure. IDK what it could be. There's a fuse on the red power source cable but I checked that too and didn't see nothing wrong. Now my gauges aren't luminating. Can someone tell me what happened or help me out?

Re-grounded it awhile ago and still same problem.

 

[GVR4592]

You may have a wiring/connection problem somewhere. I would check it with a volt/ohm meter and visually inspect all connections.

 

[otownawdtsi]

well if your radio (or amp - assuming it is a factory amp) isnt coming on and also your dash lights arent illuminating i would venture to guess that you may have a blown fuse, saying how the radio/dash lights are on the same fuse in the dash fuse box, just a thought

 

[Thomas91169]

Interior Fuse(s) blown.

 

[S_Ranger]

Ok, the gauges not lighting up was due to a blown fuse. I kinda figured that but I guess I skimmed right over it. My amp is an aftermarket one. Everything is wired correctly, or at least I think so. Still no problem. I replaced that fuse and the gauges are working again.

 

[spoolup]

to troubleshoot most electrical problems requires atleast a volt ohm meter. you can a buy a cheapo from radio shack for about $8.00. after getting it, select DC volts and check that you are getting +12VDC at the "+" marked lead, you will get this voltage wether or not hte stereo is actually on. IF so, then with the same ohm meter but select ohms, a good ground should have less than 2 ohms, but the cheapo meters can not even read 0 with the leads connected, so look for a VERY low (less than 10 ohm) reading when connecting the other side to a good ground (IE seat belt retaining bolts). If that is good, select DC volts again on the meter. connect that to the "remote" line, and have a friend turn the stereo on, you should see it go from 0VDC with the stereo off to +12VDC with the stereo on. If it does then the amp is bad, the internal circuit that turns it on (basically just a relay) took a dump on you. Now if the remote lead always shows 0 volts, then the remote line out of the head unit that is used to turn on the amps is bad or broken. It could jus be the wire or it could the headunit it self. If you always get 0V on the remote line, try this. disconnect the remote line at the amp and cover with eletrcial tape, then take a short piece of wire and jump from the "+" to the "remote" on the amp, it should turn on. If so then you an use this trick to keep it working till the head unit is serivced. but when you stop BE SURE TO REMOVE THIS JUMPER or the amp will keep drawing power and kill you battery since the "+" line is a constant 12V source.

Let me know what you find

 

[S_Ranger]

Oooh. Nice information. I now know what to do. I'll go buy a voltmeter tommorow and perform these tests. Thankyou for your time.