Car all of a sudden running terrible

[David199619]

Hello everyone, I drive a 98 Eclipse GSX. Today my car seriously took a hit. Mine doesn't have too too much done to it, just things like the 16g evo turbo, fmic, 3" exhaust, hks bov, wastegate, k&n intake, things like that. Well today I drove to my friends apartment, and everything was fine. I started to leave when I noticed that I had almost no power. There is a sputtering sound whenever I try to move the car. The car is running terribly at idle and cycles from 500 rpm to 1200 rpm. The fastest I got it to was 60 but drove it because I needed to get back to my apartment. There was no check engine light and I ran a scan tool on it, and there was no issues. I drove it to my school (I recently started going to UTI) and my instructor found a vacuum hose that blew off so we fixed that but it didn't change much. He checked the spark plugs and found they were turned pink, which he told me meant that the car is running lean. When I was showing my friend what I meant by the sputtering, there was a LOUD backfire, and I got the check engine light on. I ran a scanner on it and turns out that cylinder 2 has a misfire. I am definitely going to be changing the coils, plugs, wires, fuel filter, and probably air filter (I was going to do this soon anyway, along with a timing belt even though the timing belt isn't needed yet). Should I be changing anything else? I'm not sure if it has the stock injectors or not, but I need to know if I should get injectors or fuel pump or anything like that, it felt like it had a lean misfire at first before the backfire incident. Someone give me advice please?

The scan tool only produced the misfire code, and no I don't have a wideband gauge, but I am getting one tomorrow or on Monday for tuning purposes. (My friend told me to get the Aeroforce Interceptor, and if I do he can get me one probably close to half off considering where he works)

And yes it is my daily driver, but I have a back-up car so it won't be moving with the misfire haha.

Edit: I'd thought I'd mention that even though it is running like crap, the boost gauge somehow read 15-18 PSI in first gear before the misfire code a few times, which is crazy considering it never read anything even close to that before.

 

[bryanwheat]

Before anything, do a boost leak test. You also don't have to buy a coil or wires, you can just test the coil and wires with a multimeter. It is highly unlikely that it is the wires or the coil if you have strong spark at the plugs. It also isn't your air filter causing this. I don't see it very likely that the fuel filter would just all the sudden become clogged. Start off simple do a boost leak test, test all 4 plugs for proper spark, check compression, if all is good there than check fuel pressure, and check the timing belt for proper alignment.

 

[David199619]

Before anything, do a boost leak test. You also don't have to buy a coil or wires, you can just test the coil and wires with a multimeter. It is highly unlikely that it is the wires or the coil if you have strong spark at the plugs. It also isn't your air filter causing this. I don't see it very likely that the fuel filter would just all the sudden become clogged. Start off simple do a boost leak test, test all 4 plugs for proper spark, check compression, if all is good there than check fuel pressure, and check the timing belt for proper alignment.

How would I perform a boost leak test, and how do I check all 4 plugs for proper spark? I can do the compression test no problem though. And I may replace the air filter because it looks to be getting pretty clogged anyway, and definitely the fuel filter considering I took a look at it and it is old. I would have already tested the fuel but my school didn't have the right gauge, so I need to buy an inline fuel pressure gauge and check it which I will do tomorrow, and how would I be able to check the timing belt for proper alignment?

Sorry for all the questions as I said I basically just started the school.

Thanks again for helping.

 

[bryanwheat]

How would I perform a boost leak test, and how do I check all 4 plugs for proper spark? I can do the compression test no problem though. And I may replace the air filter because it looks to be getting pretty clogged anyway, and definitely the fuel filter considering I took a look at it and it is old. I would have already tested the fuel but my school didn't have the right gauge, so I need to buy an inline fuel pressure gauge and check it which I will do tomorrow, and how would I be able to check the timing belt for proper alignment?

Sorry for all the questions as I said I basically just started the school.

Thanks again for helping.

Check for proper spark by removing a plug and put it in each wire while sitting it on the valve cover and have someone crank the engine. The spark should be blue. The air filter you can just clean i it is a k&n. The air filter won't just all the sudden make it run like crap and neither will the fuel filter. A boost leak test consists of making a boost leak tester and pressurizing the intercooler piping and intake manifold. http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html . Go to this link than click on intake in the top box than scroll down until you see the link called intake leak tester. This will show you how to make a leak tester and how to use it. This is something that should be done frequently on these cars. Do the boost leak test before anything, than check for proper spark, than check timing marks. To check the timing marks properly you need to remove the timing cover, but there is an easier way to do it, it just isn't as accurate. You will remove the number one spark plug (the one closest to the timing belt) and move that piston to the very top of the stroke. You will need a long rod to feel when it is at the top. From there remove the upper timing belt cover and check the timing marks. The dowel pins should be pointing up and the marks on the cam gears lined up. If the dowels are pointed down than rotate the engine one turn and put the piston back to the top of it's stroke.

 

[David199619]

I should have known how to do these tests. Alright, I will get to doing these tests tomorrow when I wake up or after school and hopefully it is something simple. If the spark isn't good enough on one of the plugs I would need to replace it correct? (unless it's just because of a gapping issue but I will check the gaps) What type of plugs should I get if I need them? (Just asking now before I forget to ask).

 

[bryanwheat]

If you have bad spark than it would indicate a bad wire or a problem with one of the coils. You will be using just one plug to test all 4 cylinders. As for spark plugs, go with ngk part number 5534. This is the bpr7es plug which is one step colder and will help prevent detonation. I would gap them around .028.

 

[Tjeclipse2g]

Don't waist your time check your timing first then comp on all cylinders may of floated a valve probly just jumped time tho

 

[bryanwheat]

Don't waist your time check your timing first then comp on all cylinders may of floated a valve probly just jumped time tho

Because that is so much more common than a boost leak on these.

 

[Tjeclipse2g]

And don't trust your instructor at uti I personally went to LTI in Indianapolis the teachers at schools are teaching because they cant do not doing because they are good and know how they will guinnie pig the sh.t out of your whip good luck not sure if your motor is an interference engine or not depends on performance parts on some occasions hopfully it is not do comp test at wide open throttle all plugs out don't forget to disable spark/spray will cause fire good luck time to go to bed

 

[bryanwheat]

And don't trust your instructor at uti I personally went to LTI in Indianapolis the teachers at schools are teaching because they cant do not doing because they are good and know how they will guinnie pig the sh.t out of your whip good luck not sure if your motor is an interference engine or not depends on performance parts on some occasions hopfully it is not do comp test at wide open throttle all plugs out don't forget to disable spark/spray will cause fire good luck time to go to bed

You make no sense, you are saying that it might be an interference depending on performance parts. These engines are interference engines regardless of what parts you have on them.

 

[Tjeclipse2g]

Because that is so much more common than a boost leak on these.

Not everything is about boost always if it was it would have to have pipework completely disconnected and even then you wouldn,t have miss on only 1 cyl a contribution test would show all cylinders weak not 1 if the plug was(pink) burned lean would a boost (air) pressure leak cause that no it would be rich if you had smacked valve or jumped time it would cause pre detonation with causes high nitrous oxide readings due to comb chamber temp raised also known as pre-detination. Common has nothing to due with symptoms a mechanic that uses odds should just play darts with their car.[DOUBLEPOST=1411728838][/DOUBLEPOST]only way crank will freespin is if it is the Australian 8v sohc 4g63 any other 4g63-head combo is a valve smasher I hope the best of luck that I am wrong but I have 6ase certs and have worked on cars since 13 since 17 as a career and now I rebuild all make mod transmissions good luck hope its a simple fix

 

[bryanwheat]

Not everything is about boost always if it was it would have to have pipework completely disconnected and even then you wouldn,t have miss on only 1 cyl a contribution test would show all cylinders weak not 1 if the plug was(pink) burned lean would a boost (air) pressure leak cause that no it would be rich if you had smacked valve or jumped time it would cause pre detonation with causes high nitrous oxide readings due to comb chamber temp raised also known as pre-detination. Common has nothing to due with symptoms a mechanic that uses odds should just play darts with their car.

You are impossible to understand, try to work on your grammar so that others can understand you better. It is also very hard to take someone serious that you can't understand. Sorry if i rub a nerve with you. I get the just of what you are trying to say, but i don't think you know these cars very well at all. So i don't need you to try and school me on anything. The reason that i recommend a boost leak test is to rule that out from the start. Do you know how common they are on these cars, and how badly it effects the performance? A boost leak doesn't just check for leaks in the intercooler piping, it also tests for vacuum leaks in the intake manifold. Regardless if that is the issue you should be testing for boost leaks every few months on these cars. Your theory is timing, but that doesn't cause the engine to run lean. If the timing was far enough off to make a valve contact a piston than they would be bent and the engine would no longer start. I am also taking the advise from the instructor with a grain of salt here.

 

[Tjeclipse2g]

Check for proper spark by removing a plug and put it in each wire while sitting it on the valve cover and have someone crank the engine. The spark should be blue. The air filter you can just clean i it is a k&n. The air filter won't just all the sudden make it run like crap and neither will the fuel filter. A boost leak test consists of making a boost leak tester and pressurizing the intercooler piping and intake manifold. http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html . Go to this link than click on intake in the top box than scroll down until you see the link called intake leak tester. This will show you how to make a leak tester and how to use it. This is something that should be done frequently on these cars. Do the boost leak test before anything, than check for proper spark, than check timing marks. To check the timing marks properly you need to remove the timing cover, but there is an easier way to do it, it just isn't as accurate. You will remove the number one spark plug (the one closest to the timing belt) and move that piston to the very top of the stroke. You will need a long rod to feel when it is at the top. From there remove the upper timing belt cover and check the timing marks. The dowel pins should be pointing up and the marks on the cam gears lined up. If the dowels are pointed down than rotate the engine one turn and put the piston back to the top of it's stroke.

dangerious disable fuel before you check for spark and use in line spark tester if press reg has failed or fuel is in cylinder you will catch car on fire if you don't take proper measures first[DOUBLEPOST=1411729931][/DOUBLEPOST]Boost leaks cause backfires? Good thing I some how have 2 import and 1 domestic dealer and ATSG training In backround if it were legal I would put a wager on this topic... Actually on the diag of this mans car..

 

[bryanwheat]

Boost leaks cause backfires? Good thing I some how have 2 import and 1 domestic dealer and ATSG training In backround if it were legal I would put a wager on this topic... Actually on the diag of this mans car..

That's cool i have a high school education and i know that these are interference engines. I don't need you to turn this into a pissing match about what education you have. There is no need to contradict every thing that i say, i help people fix their cars on here every single day, and put in an ass ton of my free time here.

 

[pauleyman]

I see two things, high boost on the boost gauge ( im assuming op means stock gauge) and the backfire that suggest to me this is a leak. A timing check and a leak test are both easy and fast.
Lets not get in a pissing contest here. Ase cert or not some of the members here have been speializing on one car for 20 plus years. We have seen all the common problems with these particular motors.

 

[David199619]

I will do a boost leak test when I find the time to build one, which will probably be this weekend on Saturday. It stated I may need a bigger size to fit my turbo, do you know what size I would need for the evo 16g? And it is not the stock boost gauge I'm talking about as that does not have any numbers (sadly), there is an aftermarket (can't remember brand) in the radio compartment. And yeah I figured I should disable the fuel system before testing the spark, and I was actually wondering if there was a different way to test spark? I've heard you can test the plugs with a DMM, but does that only test the plug it self? I can't do too much diag at the place I'm living in, they don't want you working on your cars in the parking lot, but I'm doing it at night, and bright blue flashes of light and cranking of engine at 2am may not be too good when the car is 10 feet away from one of the apartment buildings.

 

[402tuner]

I had a similiar issue happen to me with my idle and often backfire. Throwing codes that two of my cylinders were misfiring. Turned out that my high flo cat was clogged and not functioning properly. Just my two cents! Good luck on fixing the problem.

 

[v8srslo]

if u have misfire on a solid cylinder swap thinks to other cylinders and see if misfire moves.. sounds like its lean for sure. pull all the plugs and compare colors. make sure compression is good but if that was bad it would run rich and have a black plug. i would check for a dirty or bad injector or spark issue. u can move injector and see if problem follows, same with plugs, but wires u can't swap due to length. plug wires can test good but short under load.. ways to check wires is run engine spray wires with soapy water and check for arching to the engine, or even better is using a test light running the tip up and down the wire from coil to plug and if the insulation on the wire is worn the spark will jump to the tip of test light