Can't get Hahn TB/ Upper S-pipe intercooler pipe on.

[EdwardNorth]

I just spent the last 3 hours trying to get this lousy thing on. I already have the Hahn UICP with the BOV installed, but try as I might I cannot get the final S-pipe section installed. If I try to couple the 2 pipes together before connecting the other end to the Throttle Body, it won't go over the studs on the TB. If I put that end on the TB studs first, the other side won't go over the coupler onto the other pipe.

Now I've slid the coupler up far enough on the bottom of the S-pipe so there's no overhang, and was able to connect the TB end properly and mate up the 2 pipes, but I can't get the damn coupler to slide back down the bottom of the S-pipe and over the BOV pipe at all because it is so freaking tight.

I can't believe I got my butt kicked by a lousy intercooler S-pipe, but I have. Lovely that because it's such a pain in the ass to install, the pipe is all scruffed up now from scraping against engine bay parts.

Can anyone who has installed this or any other hard S-pipe give me an idea what to do? This really sucks.

Thanks.

 

[EdwardNorth]

I'm going to try to use Silicon lubricant to get the coupler to slide down the s-pipe. Hopefully that will work.

So is it a common thing to get scruffs and scratches on painted pipes during install, or do I just suck really bad?

 

[RayPeters]

It always seems to end up happening to me as well, paint = scratches. I'd suggest soapy water myself, the silicon will make the pipes slippery forever. Should be able to slide it together. I actually glue all my connections, nothing I hate worse than a hose popping off in the middle of a run. Good Luck,

Ray

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

I always use some type of WD40 or equivalent on the couplers and pipes so they slide in easier. All hard pipes are a pain to install because they won't bend.
There's no real magic, just keep fiddling with it.

 

[EdwardNorth]

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

 

[romeen]

I have the same IC pipe set and I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. Lubricating the inside of the coupler and end of the pipe definitely helps. But if you are still having trouble even after that there is one other option to try.

I've found that for me it works easier to install the pipe that attaches to the TB first. Then install the other pipe starting with the end opposite the IC (slide it into the coupler at the end of the pipe you just installed). When you do this angle it so that the IC end of it is facing towards the front of the car. Then twist it 90* down (if you are looking at the motor from the passenger side of the car you will be twisting it clockwise) so that the IC end slips into the coupler which is already attached to the IC outlet. You may have to use the flat head of a screwdriver to get the edge of the coupler started over the end of the pipe. When you twist it around the end of the pipe is barely going to catch the rail on the side of the engine compartment. You can just force it by (it will scratch things just a little) or you can take a Dremel and just grind away a tiny bit of the rail to make future removal/install easier. If you can't get it into the coupler at the IC side you can also loosen the IC mounting bolts so that it drops a little giving you some more room.

One other thing to watch for is a boost leak at the coupler between the two pipes at the s-pipe end of the coupler (the TB side). The curve of that pipe begins fairly close to the end of the pipe. In other words the straight section is kind of short and the hose clamp may be sitting partially on a curved portion. This can make a good seal difficult. You may have to play around with the exact position of it before you find that spot that works.

Hope all that makes sense. Good luck.

 

[EdwardNorth]

Thanks for the additional suggestion. I tried the soap & water method and I managed to slide the coupler without much of a problem that way, so the pipe is finally installed (5 hours later.... bleh). Too late to even start the Talon and test things out, plus I have to drive it up onto my ramps so I can crawl under and retrieve a socket wrench I dropped way down in the bay....

I was hoping the paint on the pipe would be a bit more resilient, fortunately the worst scratched areas are not visible with the pipe installed, but being the perfectionist I am, knowing they exist will drive me nuts anyway... heh. Did you get your Hahn set in without scratching it up?

 

[romeen]

Glad you were able to finally get it.

I also ended up replacing the coupler that they sent with the kit with a hump hose coupler. This allows a little more flex and it makes it easier to slide it on the end of the pipe. Not a necessity but it did make subsequent removal/reinstallation a little easier.

Did you get your Hahn set in without scratching it up?

My set is powdercoated pretty nicely so it is quite resistant to scratches. There may be a few scratches but nothing too noticeable. I bought my set in 1999 so maybe they don't powdercoat them anymore (?).

 

[EdwardNorth]

Yeah, I think it's powder coated not painted. I was fiddling with it for so long, a couple bolts on the engine block rubbed through the coat to the metal in a couple spots. Small spots that you can't even see with the pipe installed, but the fact that I know they're there is enough for me... I'll just get some hi-temp touch up paint and some scratch/swirl remover and make it purty again -- I have to remove the pipe again anyway because of a boost leak, which brings me to my next question --

When I was installing the pipe, the TB Elbow to TB gasket got bent a couple times. I straightened it out, since Hahn told me I could re-use the gasket, but I have a minor boost leak now and I'm pretty sure that's where it is coming from. My question is, do I need to also replace the TB to Intake Manifold gasket, or should I be fine just replacing the TB Elbow to TB gasket? The TB was loose after unbolting so I know it didn't stay pressed against the IM. The gasket there didn't get touched however and should be in fine shape.

Still haven't gotten around to building the boost leak tester... doh! I'll do that tonight.

Thanks guys.