Cannot Get my new 7 bolt to run right

[MitsGSX]

Ok so I have been fighting this problum for weeks, no avail.

Just had my 7-bolt re-built by a shop. Here are the symptoms:

-Really Rough Idle, about 25cm Hg at 650rpm
-above 4k rpm get a engine vibration. not violent, but deffinitly there
-Sometimes it will crank and not start, I release the starter, crank again and it starts right up
-Electrical arcing sound coming from #4 plug/injector area, new plugs and wires, gaped to .030

I tried to do a boost leak test, set crank to 30* ATDC, even then all the air leaks out exhaust.

compression is 150-155 with 600mi on engine.
No CEL's

please help! im lost and getting frustrated

 

[kenamond]

Have you checked your cam timing? The super-high idle vaccuum and exhaust leak at 30°ATDC sound like your timing's off.

 

[MitsGSX]

sorry forgot to add that, checked the cams three times by two people, haha deffinitly on

 

[kenamond]

Are you getting spark and fuel? Double-check that you installed the plug wires correctly. Also, are you running NGK BPR6ES plugs? And you should gap them to 0.028". I'd be suprised if that extra 0.002" would cause this problem, but it's worth a try.

 

[TALONTRAX]

The vibration at 4k sounds like mis-aligned balance shaft . . .

 

[Nvisabl]

The vibration at 4k sounds like mis-aligned balance shaft . . .

Most def balance shaft if still in motor. Next Item would be something not torque correctly Like flywheel bolts.

Good luck
dj

 

[drewvr4]

make sure the cams, crank, oil pump and balance shaft are all in time..if any of them are a tooth off that will fix your problem

 

[Zex4g63]

Are you using the 97-99 CAS? Did you by chance install the cam sensor trigger wheel 180 degrees out? It will bolt onto the end of the cam two ways. When it is 180 out it causes issues. It easy to flip it around. It doesn't seem to throw a code either.

 

[Gee-Es-Tee]

Get a balance shaft eliminator kit. get rid of those damn things, I had the same problem plus low oil pressure. I got rid of them and magic happened.

 

[MitsGSX]

Im thinking its probably is the Balance Shaft, I will probably just remove it. The CAS is on, i had it 180 off before and i fixed that. The plugs are BPR6EIX, NGk iridiums. Pugs are on correctly, and when looking at my wideband it seems slow to richen up after letting off throttle, white plugs comfirm this.

Thanks for all the help

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Change your plugs to NGK BPRE6's. Iridium plugs are not optimal for our cars.

 

[MitsGSX]

Well i fixed the high RPM vibration, the lower balance shaft was off a coupple of teeth. But now Its idleing extreamly lean, from 20-40:1. It richens right up when I touch the trottle, and runs fine above 1K RPM's or with any throttle

 

[kenamond]

Well i fixed the high RPM vibration, the lower balance shaft was off a coupple of teeth. But now Its idleing extreamly lean, from 20-40:1. It richens right up when I touch the trottle, and runs fine above 1K RPM's or with any throttle

Sounds like a vaccuum leak. Have you done a boost leak test? If you have boost leaks, you'll run lean under vaccuum and rich under boost.

And definitely change to BPR6ES plugs gapped to 0.028". They cost $2/ea at NAPA. There are plenty of posts on this forum against using iridium or platinum plugs. Everyone recommends the NGK BPR6ES plugs up to about 18psi boost and then 7ES (cooler plug) above that (and probably something else when you get to much higher boost).

And as someone said, if the cams are timed correctly with each other but not with the crank, you'll still have problems. You can search around to find out the procedure.

 

[MitsGSX]

the problem im having with the boost leak test is that even at 30* ATDC I get tons of air going out the exhaust