Can someone help me out? Car keeps dying after new setup.

[tscook3]

Hopefully someone can lead me in the right direction here. I'll try to make this as short yet detailed as possible.

Well I finally got the final pieces of my car put together and have been ready to fire her up for the first time. In the past 8 months I have changed a lot of things since my turbo went. You can view my profile for my previous mods if you like. Heres what's new:

Precision 6262 dbb .82 a/r, dnp manifold, tial 40mm wastegate, dual walbro 255's in tank wired to a 40 amp relay and fused @ the battery, precision 1200cc injectors, Fuel Lab 10an regulator, DSMLink V3, new NGK-BPR8's. That's the major stuff.

So, I have everything together, primed the turbo, checked for leaks (absolutely no leaks), everything good to go. I established my connection to DSMLink, adjusted my maf setting and also my global and deadtime values for the fuel. The global was calculated for -62.5 and I set the dead time to 330. So the base settings should be good to go and suitable for startup to my knowledge.

After all this I attempt to start the car. After a couple turns I got the car to fire but it sputters and dies after idleing for about 4 or 5 seconds. Does this every time. It will not stay running. I know the car is getting fuel because I disconnected the fuel lines from both the filter to rail and fpr to rail and fuel leaked out. Also, I had my buddy check the gauge on the fpr when it was running for the short period of time and he said it is showing just a tad under 40 psi which should be ok. Obviously the car is getting enough fuel to start the car and idle for a little but something is causing it to sputter and die. As soon as you give it a little gas to try and keep it running, it dies.

Sorry, that was a little longer than I expected . That should pretty much cover it. I'd appreciate it if anybody has any ideas on this, I'm sure it is probably something stupid that needs addressed. Someone help me out; I need to get this thing ready for the spring time!

Thanks

 

[delta448]

Did you use the high side of the stock FP relay to trigger the new 40A one?

What MAF settings?

 

[tscook3]

The pumps are powered by one seperate relay ( 40 amp from radioshack ) and fused by a 40amp fuse at the battery. It is wired as you would do your typical rewire: one relay, 10 ga fused power wire from the battery, relay grounded out, stock power wire to pumps cut and both the side of the wire that leads to the car and the side that leads to the pump are connected appropriately.

MAF Setup: I am running a 3" gm maf along with a translator. Under the maf tab in dsmlink, I have it set for a stock maf as I do not have my maf connected straight to the ecu via their wire ( this way you would set it for a 3" gm maf ).

I have a hard time believing it is a fuel issue because I know the car is getting fuel and a sufficient fuel pressure has been read when the car would stay running for the five seconds it did.

I'm lost. Thanks

*** On another note- when the car is running for the short period of time it does, it idles perfectly and sounds great. Then, it just dies out.

 

[delta448]

Is the car dying because spark is being cut?
Check the CAS. If the ECU doesn't get a good signal within a few seconds of starting it will shut the car off to prevent damage.

 

[tscook3]

That sounds like something that could be happening. I have read this a couple times; I was just a little unsure since I didn't have any problems like this when I took the car apart. How would I go about checking this? Just trace the wires and see if everything looks ok? It'd suck to have to buy another one and put it on being unsure that it is even the problem but I guess that's the name of the game!

Thanks for the help

 

[delta448]

You can check it with a DMM. The signal should be wave form when spun. I'd check the wiring first though.

 

[tscook3]

Ok. I will check. I also was told to check the "ignore iat/ baro" function in dsmlink to see if it is checked or unchecked.

Would a start up log tell anything ?

 

[cheap90gsx]

I feel like i have a very similar problem. The engine starts and sounds fine then a few seconds in it sputters out and dies. i didn't do many modifications other then a new wiring harness and a few other things. I've swapped out several different parts from a working car and I can't figure out what it is.

 

[tscook3]

Well I just got done saving a couple start up logs and I am in the process of uploading the video to photobucket that I took also (takes forever). I will get that on here a little later. Hopefully this will help someone lead me in the right direction.

Really hope that someone will be able to help me out with this.

Thanks a lot!

**** Here is the video:

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[tscook3]

Anyone have any ideas? Starting to believe it is something electrical that is causing it to run out of spark or fuel. Everything in the link seems fine, atleast no one has pointed out anything wrong to me.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Dang man thats wierd not sure what it could be to start then die like that.

 

[delta448]

Disclaimer: I was hoping someone else would jump in here with more ECMLink experience, I'm not a Link user, so this is just my first impression. Also, I'm only looking at the 1st log right now.

If you still have it I would try reinstalling the factory MAS, intake pipe and recirc hose. The Airflow readings in your logs look very suspect to me. How well did you have the MAFT calibrated before? The GM MAF is known to give bad readings often when used in blow through mode, which is just one of the reasons I think installing a MAFT is a bit of a hack. Did you remember to zero out all the settings in the MAFT? If you didn't, and had a decent tune before with it, try changing the DSMLink injector compensation to work with the already decent calibration on the MAFT. If it's still set up for your previous 650s, then DSMlink isn't injecting enough fuel right now, which explains the lean idle that wants to hang around 320 and stall. You can either zero the MAFT or change Link compensation from -62.5 up to -46%.

I noticed your profile says you have 2G 8.5:1 pistons in your 6 bolt. This doesn't really match your commanded ignition timing in the log even remotely. Are you still running the (too aggressive for that CR) 1G timing map, or is this a MAFT symptom again? Here's the timing map you should start from:

2gtimingin1gecu [ECMTuning - wiki]

How much vacuum does the engine pull at idle? BoostEst goes as far as 25.1inHg, which I find very hard to believe, I only ever pulled that much on my old 2G when downshifting into about 4000rpm while completely off the throttle.

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, you need to check the "Lock intake temperature and barometric pressure" box when using a GM MAF.

I would also suggest taking a look at the MAFT settings. They should be:

AUX - 4
BASE - 2
Everything else - 0
All mode switches - OFF

I'm not sure how to interpret the logs. They're pretty crazy, but it might just all be from a simple problem.

 

[tscook3]

Disclaimer: I was hoping someone else would jump in here with more ECMLink experience, I'm not a Link user, so this is just my first impression. Also, I'm only looking at the 1st log right now.

If you still have it I would try reinstalling the factory MAS, intake pipe and recirc hose. The Airflow readings in your logs look very suspect to me. How well did you have the MAFT calibrated before? The GM MAF is known to give bad readings often when used in blow through mode, which is just one of the reasons I think installing a MAFT is a bit of a hack. Did you remember to zero out all the settings in the MAFT? If you didn't, and had a decent tune before with it, try changing the DSMLink injector compensation to work with the already decent calibration on the MAFT. If it's still set up for your previous 650s, then DSMlink isn't injecting enough fuel right now, which explains the lean idle that wants to hang around 320 and stall. You can either zero the MAFT or change Link compensation from -62.5 up to -46%.

I noticed your profile says you have 2G 8.5:1 pistons in your 6 bolt. This doesn't really match your commanded ignition timing in the log even remotely. Are you still running the (too aggressive for that CR) 1G timing map, or is this a MAFT symptom again? Here's the timing map you should start from:

2gtimingin1gecu [ECMTuning - wiki]

How much vacuum does the engine pull at idle? BoostEst goes as far as 25.1inHg, which I find very hard to believe, I only ever pulled that much on my old 2G when downshifting into about 4000rpm while completely off the throttle.

Hey,

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I don't have any of that stuff anymore. The maf-t is zeroed out. I changed if before I attempted to start the car. As for the timing- I was under the impression not to mess with the timing in link until I go for a tune. As far as I know the timing on the motor itself I would assume it is ok as I didn't have problems like this before. I guess you never know though, I am just going to have to start messing with stuff. I have never checked the actual reading on the boost gauge yet. I did hear that the reading on dsmlink isn't that accurate sometimes.

Yes, you need to check the "Lock intake temperature and barometric pressure" box when using a GM MAF.

I would also suggest taking a look at the MAFT settings. They should be:

AUX - 4
BASE - 2
Everything else - 0
All mode switches - OFF

I'm not sure how to interpret the logs. They're pretty crazy, but it might just all be from a simple problem.

Yep. That is how they are set.

I'm with you on the logs. Looks like a foreign language to me, I was hoping someone who knew a lot about link could give me a good analysis.

Thanks

 

[tscook3]

**Update- Worked on the car today for a few hours. Tested the resistance of the coil pack = good. Verified spark from all four plugs/wires. Ignition is working fine. I put in some bpr6s for a hotter spark since the car is running rich as it is and will switch out later. Gapped to .028". Double checked fuel pressure with a buddy numerous times through link ("activate fuel pump") and holds constant 40psi until you click off. My settings in link match this fuel pressure. I also wired my aem wideband to my ecu for dsmlink, pin 8. Baro/Iat locked. Maft setting: aux= 4, base = 2, everything else = 0, all mode switches = off.

Car runs for longer now. I had it running for probably around 10 seconds but it still will not stay running. Try to give it gas = dies. Let off the clutch = dies. I eliminated any issues with the coil pack, wires, etc themselves, also the pumps.

Log is attatched. If everything is right, looks like it runs leaner and leaner as it idles and is very, very lean when it dies, which doesn't make a lot of sense. Not sure how accurate the afr estimate is on link. I know the gauge in my cluster was fluctuating a lot.