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Can I Block Off MY Water Lines for My Stock turbo to stick on my T3T4

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carbonfire

15+ Year Contributor
175
1
Aug 23, 2004
Waterloo, Iowa
Well that is my question... how to and if I can block off my water lines on a 1g that go to the turbo and than the return line.... If so what size plugs do I use? I was doing some reading and it appears that is can be blocked off and not looped like it is on the second gens but I dont know what size plugs to use... My manifold for my T3T4 will be here Tuesday and I want to be ready......

:talon:
 
Well, Before I even thought about just connecting a hose from the one port for the water line, To the one on the water pipe.. I broke the stock turbo water line(The U) and put a hose on the end of it clamped it down and clamped the other end down with a bolt that fit tight in there, So that hasent leaked since.. The other line well.. :( I just stuck a screw in the hole and jb-welded it.. :shhh: That also has not leaked either. So it worked fine for me. But yes, You can plug them, However you decide to do it.
 
the coolant return line, unscrew it, and get the correct size bolt to plug it. the feed, i put a vac cap on the end with a good clamp. you arent gonna block them and still drive the car right? at least not till u get ur new turbo i hope.
 
I have a non turbo water pipe for a 1G, brand new dealership part never installed Ill let you have for $40 shipped. I went with an 18g mitsu style instead of a garret center. PM me for my paypal.
 
But with that in mind you would have to switch to a 90 external oil cooler
 
Your oil cooler will no longer work if you use an na pipe. Heres what i did and it works just as well. Unbolt the water feed line that goes from the water pipe to the "mitsu" style turbo. The threads are 3/8 npt which happens to be the same threads as the braided oil feed line thread into on your oil filter housing. Take the plug that was in your oil filter housing and use it to plug the water pipe. As for the port on the thermostat housing put a vacuum cap on it and clamp it down. Its the same thing I did on my ride and it works just fine. Sean
 
Ok I am a little confused about that last statement..... Wont I still get my oil from the same place as before? So why would I be taking this plug out of my oil filter housing>?

And second question.... so I just block up the T.Stat side with a Vacc cap.... I got that down... but the other end I just stick a 3/8 npt plug in and that is it.... no other mods needed... I mean I got new SS oil lines and return lines... but I assumed all I would do is go back to where the stock oil lines where and plug in there for a feed and than cut off the stock return one and stick the new SS one over it and clamp the shiz out of it.... Am I right?>

:talon:

Oh and my stock oil cooler is going to work right?
 
Ok I think I understand even better now.... my SS line will go directley to the Oil Filter Housing.... and than I use that plug to block the water line....

But what do I use now to block the stock oil location in the head>?
 
carbonfire said:
Ok I think I understand even better now.... my SS line will go directley to the Oil Filter Housing.... and than I use that plug to block the water line....

But what do I use now to block the stock oil location in the head>?


Exactomondo, you will use the plug from the oil filter housing on the water pipe.

Stock oil location on the head, this ones way easy, surely you have a short 8mmx1.25 bolt sitting around that needs a new home. I have lots of extra nuts and bolts but thats because I used to tear alot of motors apart and saved all of the bolts from them. Nonetheless all you need is a short bolt that threads into the stock location, piece of cake.

Any other questions??
 
DSM90AWD said:
Out of curiosity.. does the NT water pipe gain you any clearance w.r.t. "clocking" the comp housing?

I've a '90 so no worries about the oil cooler :D

Nope same dimensions.
 
Stupid question :confused: but is the metal feedline bolt to waterpipe reverse threaded. I tried to turn it out with my 17mm flare wrench even after heating the waterline boss and would not budge when turning clockwise form the top (would be counterclockwise from the bottom).

Reminisent of the joy I had with the fuel pump fitting :cry:
 
No its not reverse threaded. I had to heat mine up with a small torch to get it to crack loose.

Unless you have a 90 the nt pipe will not work.

Sean
 
Just to add.. removing the pipe and putting the fitting in a vice and turning the pipe did the trick.

BTW.. the Boss does interfere with the TO4E hosing on my L2.. limiting the rotating enough to still interefere with my P/S fan. Looks like I'll have to swap in the NT pipe afterall.
 
Since I already have a "hacked" water-line (the one that runs below the turbo,) when running an "oil cooled only" turbo, I just loop the water line. It takes me a whole 1/2 a minute to do it. No blockoffs no need to worry about rounding off stuff, leaks etc. A long rubber water hose takes car of all of that for me. :thumb:
 
diambo4life said:
Since I already have a "hacked" water-line (the one that runs below the turbo,) when running an "oil cooled only" turbo, I just loop the water line. It takes me a whole 1/2 a minute to do it. No blockoffs no need to worry about rounding off stuff, leaks etc. A long rubber water hose takes car of all of that for me. :thumb:

It will until it melts because it runs so close to the turbine exhaust housing. This was one reason I just blocked it off. Im not going to run a rubber hose next to a 1200 degree furnace.
 
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