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camshafts: FP2s or 272s

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Im curious about the FFWD Connection cams DKS's ROFL and the L1's. I mean at only 350 a PAIR thats a pretty good bang for the buck especially when it comes with a year warranty.
 
the cost is due to the fact that they are re-ground boost-twisty rust-buckets......whoops wrong board.

they are re-ground cams, 1 year warranty is good i guess, but with my luck on the 366th day the lobes would shear right off.
 
Well I think I would trust a cam that has spun over for 10 years or more than I would a fresh peice of casted shaft that still has yet to break in and pay,in some cases, twice as much. I like the idea not because its cheap but because they have a really good theory if not proven fact of the casting and longevity of the "used" cams. Ive never heard of cam snapping either. I see where your comin from with the warranty part LOL thats the usual story with all of us. Just my two cents. Sam
 
1gfromND said:
Well I think I would trust a cam that has spun over for 10 years or more than I would a fresh peice of casted shaft that still has yet to break in and pay,in some cases, twice as much. I like the idea not because its cheap but because they have a really good theory if not proven fact of the casting and longevity of the "used" cams. Ive never heard of cam snapping either. I see where your comin from with the warranty part LOL thats the usual story with all of us. Just my two cents. Sam

LOL My stock cams got bent when i jumped timing. Hence, this is why my head is removed, i'm doing an in-frame rebuild and i have the fp2xs and manley springs and such... But I have to say, that regrinding is a good cheap trickthat seams to last. Most of the other engines i've messed with: getting regrinds gave you alot more reliability because of the "toughness" of the stock metal used in the OEM cam. But i heard you can't regrind a roller cam and have it as reliable as it was before :confused: .
 
CanadianTSi said:
The peak lift points were abit off.
Yeah, the whole durations seems to have been advanced slightly on the fp2x intake cam. They Seemed to have left the fp3x the same as far as duration but but added alot more lift.
 
1gfromND said:
Ive never heard of cam snapping either.


You have not been around long enough then!

I have 200's, and I can not say if they are better/worse than anything else. They have worked for me, and my car moves well. The cams were installed allong with an IM I built, so I can not tell you if there was a major direct difference.

With the IM I made, and the cams, I picks up 7mph, (129 to 136) all other things being equal.
 
1gfromND said:
Well I think I would trust a cam that has spun over for 10 years or more than I would a fresh peice of casted shaft that still has yet to break in and pay,in some cases, twice as much
Do a search on "WebCams" and you may change your tune.

Not saying regrinds cannot be done correctly and last, just that when the difference btw a regrind and new cams from the likes of CompCams designed/tested/dynoed by Forced Performance and raved about from everyone who's tried them for a few $ more, why risk it :confused:
 
Im wondering if the new fp123x cams are new comp cam grinds for the 1g/2g or are they the new evo8 cams. I say this because I now see that comp has 119100, 119200 and 119300 part numbers for the evo's. I cant find the new comp part numbers for the "new" dsm X grinds. It's funny that there are 3 new evo grinds and 3 new 1/2g grinds not 4 new 1/2g grinds seeing that there were 4 original non x grinds. Does anyone know?
 
You do know that the EVOs intake/exhaust are opposite the DSMs so are not interchangable?

Forced Performance are selling these Comp Cams P/Ns for the EVO4-8.

The FP1x-FP3x were specifically made for the T/E/Ls. FP provided the specs (propriatary to FP) and CompCams manufactured them on their behalf :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
You do know that the EVOs intake/exhaust are opposite the DSMs so are not interchangable?

Forced Performance are selling these Comp Cams P/Ns for the EVO4-8.

The FP1x-FP3x were specifically made for the T/E/Ls. FP provided the specs (propriatary to FP) and CompCams manufactured them on their behalf :dsm:

So what your saying is that, Comp Cams from comp cams for T/E/L are different then the ones from FP?
 
44pirate said:
So what your saying is that, Comp Cams from comp cams for T/E/L are different then the ones from FP?
What I'm saying is that the FPx series would only fit the T/E/L 4G63 engines so is not the same as the Comp Cam offerings for the EVO. As proof, FP offers only Comp Cam P/Ns for EVO4-8 cams on their site.

To add, FP owns the rights to the grinds they've contracted Comp Cams to manufacture. For Comp Cams to market the same grind as their own would be illegal on their part, so is reasonable to believe that they are not exactly the same but similar :dsm:
 
I first bought a set of Comp 200's. I was so disappointed with their performance or lack thereof that I sent them back to Comp for them to measure them and see if they were indeed 200's. They were. I sold them. Bought HKS 272's and the difference was like night and day. Comp said their cams should be degreed to get the most out of them.
David Buschur who built my motor said he has never had to degree HKS cams and that he has always dropped them straight up/in. That was a $469.00 lesson for me. I would go with HKS 272's or Crower 414's which are a bit more cam than the 272's having 5* more on the intake and 3* more exhaust with a bit more lift. Mark
 
DSM90AWD said:
You do know that the EVOs intake/exhaust are opposite the DSMs so are not interchangable?

Forced Performance are selling these Comp Cams P/Ns for the EVO4-8.

The FP1x-FP3x were specifically made for the T/E/Ls. FP provided the specs (propriatary to FP) and CompCams manufactured them on their behalf :dsm:


Yea i know dsm90, but i have a idea that the truth is these new cams are the evo ones. Why cant the evo cams just be fliped around? It's the same 4g63 engine. It is just facing a diffrent direction. I looked at the evo and 1g cams and they look identical if you point them in the same direction.
 
I might be wrong, im new to the 4cyl stuff. But it looks to me for a street car the hks 264/264 combo would be best. The boost comes on like stock and a nice gain in power. Wouldn't the 264/264 set up also idle like stock?? If what im saying is correct those are the cams for me i need as much low end as possible being a awd automatic at full weight.
 
blackstang3o2 said:
I might be wrong, im new to the 4cyl stuff. But it looks to me for a street car the hks 264/264 combo would be best. The boost comes on like stock and a nice gain in power. Wouldn't the 264/264 set up also idle like stock?? If what im saying is correct those are the cams for me i need as much low end as possible being a awd automatic at full weight.
Personally I went for the hotter cam and bigger stall.
 
highbooster said:
Why cant the evo cams just be fliped around? It's the same 4g63 engine. It is just facing a diffrent direction
Imagine that the lobes of #1cyls exhaust cam are pointing straight up (i.e. valves closed) and the #4 cyls is pointing down (i.e. valves closed). Now, flip the cam 180* and the #1 cyl lobes are now down (valves open) and #4 is up (valves closed).

Still think they are the same? :dsm:
 
sweet97 said:
I first bought a set of Comp 200's. I was so disappointed with their performance or lack thereof that I sent them back to Comp for them to measure them and see if they were indeed 200's. They were. I sold them. Bought HKS 272's and the difference was like night and day. Comp said their cams should be degreed to get the most out of them.
David Buschur who built my motor said he has never had to degree HKS cams and that he has always dropped them straight up/in. That was a $469.00 lesson for me. I would go with HKS 272's or Crower 414's which are a bit more cam than the 272's having 5* more on the intake and 3* more exhaust with a bit more lift. Mark


Has anyone else had issues like this with the comp cams 200's? I guess more importantly to me has anyone had this sort of issue with the FP2's? since they are basically the same cam or some say are. Or is the whole idea of the FP2's that they are setup so you don't have to degree them, just drop them in and go? I was going to go with the FP2's as I had only heard good things about them but if I have to deal with adjustable timing gears, it will end up costing as much as the HKS that will drop right in and I don't want to have to deal with setting gears as well.
 
DSM90AWD said:
Imagine that the lobes of #1cyls exhaust cam are pointing straight up (i.e. valves closed) and the #4 cyls is pointing down (i.e. valves closed). Now, flip the cam 180* and the #1 cyl lobes are now down (valves open) and #4 is up (valves closed).

Still think they are the same? :dsm:
so basically they would open the valves in the exact opposite order that you wanted them to?
 
i hate to but in, but imma bit confused. are the fp2 and comp 200's the exact same cam manufactured by the same company just with diff names, or is one diff fromt he other. meaning if i find a fp2 set i will be buying a comp 200 set or vice versa?
 
LRS95TSI said:
i hate to but in, but imma bit confused. are the fp2 and comp 200's the exact same cam manufactured by the same company just with diff names, or is one diff fromt he other. meaning if i find a fp2 set i will be buying a comp 200 set or vice versa?
May want to re-read my last three posts as I cannot be any clearer that I have.

In any case, I guarantee you either the FP1, FP2 Comp100 or Comp200 will get you within 5WHP of each other with your 16G (proven in AMSs Cam Test).

The FP2s/Comp200s pull away with larger turbos / Higher RPMs :dsm:
 
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