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callin car audio smart people

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gotrice55 said:
well of course i would be puttin 6x9s in the doors...and since its a 4dr im gonna put 4 of em in....maybe i'll go with the whole JL idea....sounds sweet i'll look into it....and whoever said i wouldn't have enough space...i don't have a dsm if you look at one of my previous posts...the trunk is huge it'll fit like 2 18s if i really wanted


sorry but I don't see what kind of vehicle you have in this thread or your profile... and unless its a town car or caddy I don't think you will find enough airspace for 3 15's... I mean in a ported enclosure cause it sounds like you really want to hit hard... you are generally talking about 2 - 2.5 cu ft of airspace per sub... thats a pretty huge enclosure. Thats too much airspace for most folk's vehicles considering that it is about same size per sub as what you need for 2 12" subs ... you could run 6 12's in th same airspace and it would be way louder and tighter than 3 15s.

but it is your vehicle, and your $ and always do what the customer wants!
 
you totally misunder stood what i was saying. when i said a sub cant handle 2x the rms i was not in any way referring to the max watt rating of the sub. i meant this: say you have 1 sub that handles 500RMS., and 1000W max. you buy an amp with 1000RMS and 2000W MAX. you wire it down to around 1 ohm. now, is this sub going to last long? NO.

correct me if im wrong, but RMS is the maximum continuous amount of watt's the sub can handle/amp can push. the MAX rating is the amount the sub can take during louder parts in the song. if this is wrong, i apologize. if not, you just misunderstood.
 
also, if i AM wrong, i apologize, because i read what you posted, and it makes sense. but at the same time, if i was wrong, there is no need to get pissy. you could have just explained in a good manner, why i was confused. i never wanted to start a rant on how i was 100% wrong. I just posted what ive been told, and also from the real world experiences that ive had.
 
sorry, i was just having a Real bad day at work. :p i apolozige for my replies.

yeah.. i see what you're saying.. although you Can get a sub to last long with too much power. All it takes is just to be careful. you weren't really wrong. It would be like saying a Tsi comes stock with 195 horsepower, so you can only make it do a 14 second quarter mile. you could get it to go quicker (strip it down, stuff like that), but not everyone does that.

example: if you have like you said a 500 rms sub, but you put a 1000 rms amp on it, it will last, but only if the signal you send it is perfect. very few people actually send a perfect signal to their subs.

again, i apologize for the pissed off repy.
 
your ok! but i do have a question... how do you tell if you are sending a clean signal? and if not, how would i fix it? :p
 
well you can usually have a tiny amount of clipping in your signal before it even becomes audible. Even the best trained ear can't tell the difference between 0% and 1% clipped. The average ear can hear a 5% clipped signal.

As long as you can't audibly hear any clipping, you should be fine as long as the power in your system does not exceed the driver's capabilities.

The only Real way to test your system to be perfect is with an oscilloscope. You plug the RCA output from your deck into the scope and it will give you a readout. I use Software on my laptop to tune my system. In addition to the scope that comes with that software, it also has a 32 band FFT analyzer (spectrum analyzer) where i can tune the frequency response of my system. :thumb:

The software is a Good investment if you're serious about maximizing the results from your car audio gear. :D
 
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