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1G Cali Dirt Track, What else to do? Chip set up? 1g N/T (MID SEASON IMPROVEMENTS)

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Dirt Eagle

Proven Member
60
0
Mar 27, 2014
San Clemente, California
Hey everyone, mid season on a 3/8th mile dirt track out here in cali / hornet division. We start around 3k rpms so low rpm horsepower is meaningless to me. About to add a pre burn chip and wondering what to say for the set up? Really the computer portion is a bit out of my understanding.
Current car:
272/272 deltas
275 cc injectors
straight exhaust
light weight
air box delete with head light assembly for better air flow
k&n

Currently running around 6 degrees retarded .... read up that this plus cams nets higher top rpm hp
What else can I do mid season and possibly post season for some added tq & hp.
Obviously been thinking about a complete overhaul with new high compression pistons for post season
Thinking about light weight fly wheel and light weight pully but i like that with the stock flywheel the rpms dont drop off
 
set up is everything my friend. you can have all the motor in the world but if your suspension is shit then you are effed. now granted your track is larger then the tracks i run but i run the same set up on dirt and asphault.
www.facebook.com/pages/OZ-Racing/267826799927839 there is a link to my teams facebook page.
 
set up is everything my friend. you can have all the motor in the world but if your suspension is shit then you are effed. now granted your track is larger then the tracks i run but i run the same set up on dirt and asphault.
www.facebook.com/pages/OZ-Racing/267826799927839 there is a link to my teams facebook page.

Forgot to mention that I've got my suspension DIALED in! The car runs on rails... were pretty limited to what we do but i have all brand new struts and plenty of spring rubber!

Also forgot to mention our track is banked!
 
all the cars we run are bone stock and i know everyone says that but its been proven year after year. we run certain tires and tire pressure. i know its hard beating faster cars been there week after week. your driving skill has alot to do with it as well. now mind you we run cavaliers and we have smoked stock quad fours and ecotec,s but once they started working them we couldnt keep up. there is 2 ways to beat faster cars. 1.get out front and keep the door closed or 2. stay on there as and hope the mess up. there is a video on the fb page where we smoke a $30,000 cavalier.
 
I would agree its amazing what good handling and tires can do but I'm all set on that! With wide banked ovals its not as easy for us to block the track... way to fast and way to much track. I need help with my chip and any other improvements I've overlooked! Ill check out the page for sure tho!!! Those eco techs are ridiculously fast ... i didn't expect it at all!
 
put the car on a diet, if possible, and re-scale it. add some cam gears and track tune the timing there. If you decide to.... shed all of the rotational mass that you can. i.e. crankshaft weights or just knife edge, lighter rods and pistons, balance shafts removed, lighten the valvetrain, lightened clutch and flywheel. mini-clutch or a coupler is fun but idk if they are available for these. Did you already weld the diff?
 
A 2.4 mitsubishi block, and crank with a dohc head would help add more torque.
You could likely get away with using the dohc 2.4 cast pistons on the 1994 galant gs, but you will need to have them machined to work with a 6 bolt block.

Another good point that has been made is... to ditch any useless dead weight [if you can], the real issue is you need more power to propel it all, so take a few minute to go over everything, and take out any useless excess weight.

the balance shafts are a good example of dead weight, so delete them with a reputable kit from one of our vendors, all you really need from them is the oem stub shaft, and the custom machined down OEM crankshaft spacer, you can save a little money by using a freeze plug [with sealant] to block off the front shaft.
these free up a little hp, and lessens the weight of the car a little.

I also think tire pressure and selection is another area to look into, in the hunt for more tenths, equal length drive axles might also be worth looking into.

maybe see if you can have a chip burned to run a 2g or bigger maf. along with bigger injectors and setup you plan on running.
 
put the car on a diet, if possible, and re-scale it. add some cam gears and track tune the timing there. If you decide to.... shed all of the rotational mass that you can. i.e. crankshaft weights or just knife edge, lighter rods and pistons, balance shafts removed, lighten the valvetrain, lightened clutch and flywheel. mini-clutch or a coupler is fun but idk if they are available for these. Did you already weld the diff?
&
A 2.4 mitsubishi block, and crank with a dohc head would help add more torque.
You could likely get away with using the dohc 2.4 cast pistons on the 1994 galant gs, but you will need to have them machined to work with a 6 bolt block.

Another good point that has been made is... to ditch any useless dead weight [if you can], the real issue is you need more power to propel it all, so take a few minute to go over everything, and take out any useless excess weight.

the balance shafts are a good example of dead weight, so delete them with a reputable kit from one of our vendors, all you really need from them is the oem stub shaft, and the custom machined down OEM crankshaft spacer, you can save a little money by using a freeze plug [with sealant] to block off the front shaft.
these free up a little hp, and lessens the weight of the car a little.

I also think tire pressure and selection is another area to look into, in the hunt for more tenths, equal length drive axles might also be worth looking into.

maybe see if you can have a chip burned to run a 2g or bigger maf. along with bigger injectors and setup you plan on running.

I can always count on you two to hit up my posts! Pistons, rods, and valve train are next thing I want to go with! Looking for some 10.5 : 1 ... looking used because like we talked before its a track car. I was thinking about the light weight fly wheel but the problem I've been thinking about is how fast the rpms drop off and with the heavier one they stay up in the corner... i was reading about this on a drag forum ... idk just something ive been thinking about.
@ pac ... what does it mean to re-scale ... i keep seeing this but not really sure????

@mitsu kid . We had talked before about that 2.4 conversion but then you run with transmission changes drive axles , etc and had talked to someone that did this conversion and the structural integrity is lacking because the motor mounts are different ... I've also heard it has so much torque the car wont stay on the track.
Tire pressure has been huge .. we run 2 different set ups depending on track conditions it all depends on the wet or dry and length of track we run on.

HUGE QUESTION NO ONE HAS ANSWERED: Chip set up? What should i do!?
 
If you like your setup now, put your car on a set of racing scales and make notes for future reference. This will tell you how much the car weighs, corner weights, and crossweight. Once you lighten the car all of this may change. This allows you to add/ experiment with placing extra weight, where you need it in the car, and how it affects your setup. IIRC on a stock car you want as close to 50% crossweight (weight split between RF and LR) as you can get. now, that may be different on a front wheel drive car. I assume on fwd you want more bite on the LF as opposed to the LR?
 
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