building a 2.4L turbo for a 1g

[Turbocharged]

My car flow more air (lb/min) at 7k rpms than it did with the 2.0L. Its just that it flows considerable more air in the 3-6k region. I didnt loose any power anywhere in the powerband, I just gained more in the lower rpms than I did in the upper rpms. What about you other 2.3/2.4 guys?

The first time I went WOT on an on ramp, I spun my tires across two lanes on the highway at the top of 2nd gear. I couldnt do that before...

 

[93EclipseGSX]

I agree entirely.

I shift at 6.5k now. It still make way more power through the rpms, I just dont have to rev the hell out of the motor to make that power. That was one of my objectives when making this swap. The swap shifted the power band up (more power) and to the left (lower rpms). Im not trying to break any drag records out there, hell I dont even drag race. But the car is FUN AS HELL. I read to many post where people want to build 2.3/2.4 motors and want it to rev to 9k. WHY? Get it dynoed, figure out where the power band is, and choose shift points based on your dyno graph.

If you want 450+ hp, you will definately need something larger then a 50 trim. Also, if you graph out a 50 trim on a compressor map with 2.4 displacement, you will see that the "pump king" drops off in efficiency rather quickly. Either way, I love my setup and wont be changing anything.

kind of funny that you shift at 6.5, i drive a evo 8 ( different i know ) with TBE, HKS 264/272 cams, tuned at 22psi, it makes around 300whp/300tq.... anyways i ran a best of 12.2@110mph shifting at 7,400rpm right before rev limiter... ive tried shifting earlier such as 7k, and even before that, and im on the stock 16g but it runs the best times reving it as far as i can go.

 

[SonySlave]

Im not looking to make me a 10 sec car but something respectable like low 13's or possibly high 12's....

A buddy of mine was running consistant 13.3s in his 98 auto GSX with a completely stock motor and head with only the Greddy 18G turbo kit with FMIC, HKS Exhaust, Tsudo Downpipe, Greddy Type-S BOV, Injen Intake, and S-AFC... So you shouldn't need much into the motor to get into that time range...

 

[Turbocharged]

kind of funny that you shift at 6.5, i drive a evo 8 ( different i know ) with TBE, HKS 264/272 cams, tuned at 22psi, it makes around 300whp/300tq.... anyways i ran a best of 12.2@110mph shifting at 7,400rpm right before rev limiter... ive tried shifting earlier such as 7k, and even before that, and im on the stock 16g but it runs the best times reving it as far as i can go.

It funny that I shift at 6.5k? I dynoed my car and that is the optimal shift point... we have ENTIRELY different setups. I see 400hp by 6k.

 

[jpbrazill]

You can use all the acessories from your 4G63.

No. You need a few other things for the build.

For a 2.4, you need the cam gears, and timing belt. You will encounter a few problems but are easily fixable.

For one, the stock turbo lines dont clear the front of the block, you have to notch a peice of the block out....it doesnt hurt anything. Also, since the 2.4 is .5" taller than a 2.0, the oil drain needs to be longer to compensate. Also, as far as building it goes, call slowboy for your parts. They have the part numbers for the cam gears, timing belt, wiseco pistons, etc.

I did not have to file down my wrist pins. If you get the wisecos, you dont need to worry about that...or the oil squirters issue. The rods are the same as a 2.0. Just get some eagles...you will be fine. As far as the head gasket goes, I called Race Engineering for mine. Just tell them you are building a 2.4 with a 2.0 head, they will ask you if it is stock bore or bored. They can get you squared away. If you have any questions about the build, feel free to ask.

J.P.

 

[Turbocharged]

No. You need a few other things for the build.

For a 2.4, you need the cam gears, and timing belt. You will encounter a few problems but are easily fixable.

For one, the stock turbo lines dont clear the front of the block, you have to notch a peice of the block out....it doesnt hurt anything. Also, since the 2.4 is .5" taller than a 2.0, the oil drain needs to be longer to compensate. Also, as far as building it goes, call slowboy for your parts. They have the part numbers for the cam gears, timing belt, wiseco pistons, etc.

I did not have to file down my wrist pins. If you get the wisecos, you dont need to worry about that...or the oil squirters issue. The rods are the same as a 2.0. Just get some eagles...you will be fine. As far as the head gasket goes, I called Race Engineering for mine. Just tell them you are building a 2.4 with a 2.0 head, they will ask you if it is stock bore or bored. They can get you squared away. If you have any questions about the build, feel free to ask.

J.P.

The deck is 6mm higher which is a little less 0.25". I experienced no difficulties with the added deck height. You are running an aftermarket exhaust manifold and a full garrett setup, that is probably why you ran into issues with the oil return line. Often, if you clock the center cartrige you can work around problems like that.

Just like any swap you are going to run into own problems; nobody will have the exact same experience.

When buying OEM parts go to the source not a middle man; you will save a good amount of money. Either get the parts through mitsubishi (with the DSM club discount) or go to jzn tuning.