Brought used jpipe, no nipple???

[calico]

Hi, i brought a used jpipe and it has no nipple on it? Is there a reason for that or do i have to purchase another one? Is there a fix for this?

 

[Deadly BlaZe]

Are you sure it's the right pipe?

 

[DSMunknown]

Hi, i brought a used jpipe and it has no nipple on it? Is there a reason for that or do i have to purchase another one? Is there a fix for this?

Yeah, just drill a hole and make your own threads for your own DIY flare fitting, or have a local DSMer help you out so you don't screw it up, or take it to a local trusted shop (probably will be damn cheap).


Use something very similar to this (although yours may differ in size, but that's okay; whatever feels appropriate to you):

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[turbotalon1g]

You might not need one, i don't need it. i have a FMIC and EBC. It's just used for a pressure source.

 

[Auto RS T]

Drill a hole in the j-pipe near the flange ending with an 11/32 bit.

Tap the hole with a 1/8 NPT.

Screw in your 1/8 NPT fitting with a nipple on the end (use some sort of sealer on the threads).

Grind off the excess fitting inside the pipe. Now you have your new boost source.

 

[romeen]

You might not need one, i don't need it. i have a FMIC and EBC. It's just used for a pressure source.

You still need a pressure source whether your using a MBC or EBC. If your not using a pressure signal from the compressor housing or j-pipe/LICP to your EBC then you are more susceptible to boost spikes.

 

[romeen]

Drill a hole in the j-pipe near the flange ending with an 11/32 bit.

Tap the hole with a 1/8 NPT.

Srcew in your 1/8 NPT fitting with a nipple on the end (use some sort of sealer on the threads).

Grind off the excess fitting inside the pipe. Now you have your new boost source.

Exactly. Except I use a Dremel to cut off most of the threaded portion before screwing it into the j-pipe. I then put JB Weld around the base of it on the outside of the pipe to further stabilize it and help seal it. It's easier than trying to grind it down inside the pipe. This is not necessary but it minimizes that bit of obstruction to the airflow.

 

[calico]

Cool, i will keep my eyes out for ones on ebay and just sell the one i got now.

 

[Tsi_User]

The fitting costs would be minimal, if you have the tools and time it couldn't cost more than $5 to do...

 

[calico]

The fitting costs would be minimal, if you have the tools and time it couldn't cost more than $5 to do...

Good point...thanks...i will give it a shot.

 

[DSMunknown]

The fitting costs would be minimal, if you have the tools and time it couldn't cost more than $5 to do...

Five dollars??? With all the right tools (assuming you know what you're doing), it should be less than 2.



(Plus the cost of your time. )

 

[Dream On]

I think I'm going to have to do the same thing soon. Would teflon tape be enough for the threads? Also, what about the pipe being round? Wouldn't it not really thread into it very well? You think I should also use jbweld around the threads? Thanks.

 

[2gdanny]

hey guys im kinda new at this and i got a j pipe in and i have a EBC; like romeen sad you still need a pressure source whether your using a MBC or EBC. My EBC is connetced 2 my tial wastegate and the nipol on the j pipe is caped?

romeen can u xplain me more off this i dont really get it and srry if itsa stupid question guys thanks

 

[romeen]

hey guys im kinda new at this and i got a j pipe in and i have a EBC; like romeen sad you still need a pressure source whether your using a MBC or EBC. My EBC is connetced 2 my tial wastegate and the nipol on the j pipe is caped?

romeen can u xplain me more off this i dont really get it and srry if itsa stupid question guys thanks

I'll be happy to explain further but I'm not really sure what part of it you want me to elaborate on.

Basically, all boost controllers intercept the pressure signal (pressurized air) that goes to the wastegate. By "delaying" the signal you can allow more boost to build before the wastegate is forced open (thus limiting boost). MBC's either bleed off some of the air or restrict the passage of the air to the wastegate so that it takes longer for the necessary opening pressure to be reached. The later the wastegate opens, the faster the turbine spins and more boost is made. EBC's basically do the same thing but use stepper motors or solenoids to control the pressure signal to the wastegate.

Ideally, you want the distance from the pressure source to boost controller to wastegate to be as short as possible. The longer it is the greater the length of time it takes for the air to fill the larger volume and reach the necessary opening pressure to activate the wastegate. I know we are talking about a relatively small space but turbos spin incredibly fast once they are spooled up and even a small delay in opening the wastegate beyond what is intended can cause the boost to go higher than desired (boost spike).

Ideally you would want the boost source to be a fitting/nipple on the compressor housing. The further away from this the more volume has to be filled (IC piping) before the signal can reach the boost controller and then WG. A nipple on the j-pipe is fine.

I hope that answers your question. If that's not what you were asking about let me know.

If any of this is inaccurate someone feel free to jump in.

 

[2gdanny]

yeah that helps andi have another question having the EBC to the wastegate ### showld i do with the nipel just leave it caped or showld i be using it for soemthing else or ca u tel me the best way
thanks one ore time

 

[daren_p]

yeah that helps andi have another question having the EBC to the wastegate ### showld i do with the nipel just leave it caped or showld i be using it for soemthing else or ca u tel me the best way
thanks one ore time

You say you have your EBC connected to the WG, so where are you sourcing the pressure from? (basically the output of the EBC solinoid goes to the WG but where does the input of the solinoid come from?) If its connected & working it must be sourced somewhere. I may be tied into the BOV line, whihc isn't a good idea. If this is the case run a line direct from the intake mani to the BOV & the inlet to the EBC solinoid should be coming off the pressure tapp in the jpipe.

To the OP, alot of jpipes don't comes with a pressure source installed. But like others have said its simple to do. You want to use a 1/8 npt barbed fitting (threads are too coarse on 1/4 npt). The size of the barbs on the other end will be up to you depending on what size vacuum hose your going to use. (I just installed a barbed fitting in my 3052 comp cover to use as my pressure source, I went with 1/4 inch barb as I will be using 6mm vacuum line connected to my Tial WG). To drill the hole the preferred drill bit size is R but 11/32 will work fine. Pick up a 1/8 npt tapp & your all set. Just make sure to use something to seal it or get someone to weld or silver solder it in if you can't.

 

[Auto RS T]

I think I'm going to have to do the same thing soon. Would teflon tape be enough for the threads? Also, what about the pipe being round? Wouldn't it not really thread into it very well? You think I should also use jbweld around the threads? Thanks.

Teflon may be enough to seal the threads, but it may make screwing the fitting in a little harder, depending on how much you use. I prefer to use some type of liquid sealer whether it be teflon liquid sealer or rtv.

The pipe being round really doesn't effect screwing the fitting in, especially after you have tapped it out. You will want to punch your starting hole so the drill doesn't slip off though. When you pick the spot to be drilled, make sure it is gong to clear any bolts that you may have to get to and that it is aimed in the shortest direction to your boost controller.

JBWeld on the threads isn't a bad idea, its like insurance that the fitting won't come out. Just be sure to wipe the excess off the inside of the pipe. Maybe you could use it to seal the threads.

 

[romeen]

I think I'm going to have to do the same thing soon. Would teflon tape be enough for the threads? Also, what about the pipe being round? Wouldn't it not really thread into it very well? You think I should also use jbweld around the threads? Thanks.

You would think that trying to screw something into a relatively thin, curved surface would result in poor holding and sealing but, as Jim said, it works better than one would initially guess. Nonetheless it's still a good idea to use some type of sealer. I don't put anything on the threads themselves. Rather I screw the fitting in then put the epoxy around the base of the fitting.

To make it look a little neater I will mask off a portion of the pipe leaving a square around the fitting. Apply the JB Weld. I use a tongue depressor to shape it and build it up around the base of the fitting as it is getting thicker. When the epoxy is tacky I peel the tape off leaving nice clean edges. It ends up looking kind of like a pyramid around the base of the fitting. You can even paint it to match the color of the J-pipe if you desire.

This will not only seal it against air leaks but it will also help to stabilize the fitting from being knocked loose.

As I mentioned previously, before I install it I like to use a Dremel to cut off most of the excess threads that would normally just be protruding into the inside of the pipe. This is easier than trying to grind it down after it has been installed and it allows you to place it closer to the compressor end of the pipe where you would otherwise be unable to reach it if trying to grind it. I can't say that eliminating or at least minimizing this small obstruction in the air stream will make any significant difference but it is gratifying to my F1-wannabe-obsessive compulsive mind.

 

[daren_p]

When I added a barbed fitting to my almost chrome dejon jpipe when I was running the evoIII, I silver soldered it in place once it was properly threaded. Its good to 1800F & made sure the fitting wouldn't be coming lose or leaking anytime soon. I then picked up some chrome spray paint, touched it up & you could barely tell it didn't come from Dejon like that (paint wasn't quite as "chrome" as the powder coat). Silver soldering is pretty easy to do if you have a set of torches (I would imagine a propane torch would work just as good). Basically the same way you would solder copper pipes, except you have to get the surfaces much hotter (basically glowing red) for the silver solder to melt compared to regular soldering.