ECMlink Breaking up or something else under full boost

[96dsmftw]

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?

2). Verified mechanical timing?

3). Verified base timing?

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: BR8ES
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK ~0.020

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:OK
Cylinder 2:OK
Cylinder 3:Ok
Cylinder 4:OK

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments? YES
Idle Switch:
Throttle Cable:
TPS:
BISS:

7). Compression ratio
Stock 2g

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
no

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
Sometimes Cylinder 2 Misfure on startup.
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: Stock 2G
Injector Size (cc/min): RC 1000

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: AEM
Calibration Date:

13). Type of fuel
Type: E85
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? Yeah


Ill start off with the misfire on cold starts. When cold, when I start it will run on 3 until I reset the CEL. Its definitely fuel related, I swapped the #2 injector with another one and it is still no.2. I checked the voltage at the injector plug when it is missing and it is 0V. But the reason for this post is because, as in the log, you can see the stuttering my car is doing under full boost. I had it set at 20psi for a while and just recently tried to up it. At first I thought it was spark blow out, hence the BR8ES. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. I have a 255 fuel pump on it, AFPR etc.

Oh yeah, I am on speed density as well.

 

[boostdawd]

Does the car appear to stumble at idle?

 

[96dsmftw]

Nope. It's fine at idle.

 

[GST with PSI]

Adjust your TPS sensor: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/

I think non-projected 8 range spark plugs are way too cold for your boost level and setup. If I were you, I'd swap to a projected or non-projected 7 range plug. I've had better luck with iridium plugs on high boost E85 setups than I have with the normal copper cores. I would swap to a set of BR7ES, BPR7ES, or BR7EIX if you want to go the iridium route. I would keep the gap tight, between @ ~.018-.020.

Check to ensure your spark plug wires are in good shape. If they are old at all, go pick up a new set of NGK wires. They are cheap and work awesome, and will eliminate any chance your plug wires are the issue.

So, on to your tune...I made a ton of changes.

I started with your Direct Access.

Not sure who tuned your car, but whoever did made a lot of changes to the base tip in and coolant temp fuel adjustment DA tables. I have no idea why these were tweaked, but I put them back to stock. Unless you have some very specific data, or you're trying to adjust for a certain scenario, you really shouldn't make any changes here. For your setup, I don't see any reason why they'd be needed.

I also tweaked your fuel and timing DA tables significantly.

In the ECU config, I just tweaked your SD table to smooth the cells, and bring the max VE down closer to 100%.

Download the files below then copy them to your ECU's config.

Regarding your injector problem, sounds like a mechanical or wiring issue. The changes to the tune probably won't fix any of that, so you need to figure that out first.

 

[96dsmftw]

I figured the same thing on the plugs, so I actually got the BPR7ES the other day. It still did the same thing but I'll keep them instead of the 8's. You weren't joking on the amount of changes. I haven't messed with the tip-in or the coolant temp adj table, must have been left over from the last guy (used ecu). I'll get the new tune in and let you know hopefully in a day or two. I appreciate the help and pointing my tune in a better direction.

 

[96dsmftw]

Well I would say you got it fixed. A few days ago in third I would get the break up as soon as I hit close to full boost. Same boost level +2psi and no break up. I guess this great stuff called E85 just wanted me to let it make some power via timing. Way more powerful down low where the big timing changes were made. Here is the last pull I did. I will be upping the boost to 25psi if it lets me, just to make sure . I got a little knock so I will be changing the timing from 13 to 12 in that column only and see what happens. Might addAlso, I will change the global fuel a bit to bring the AFR closer to 12.0. Other than those tiny things, you hit the nail on the head sir. I appreciate your help and time.

 

[GST with PSI]

Log looks much better.

You still need to adjust your TPS like I said in my first post. You're not even at WOT, so you're losing out on free HP because your TPS isn't adjusted right.

You need to tweak the SD table in the spool up cells from around 2.5k to 3k RPM. Your AFR dips rich there compared to target.

Otherwise, tweak your timing curve and boost for max power. You can adjust your target AFR slightly to see what the car likes, however, I wouldn't deviate too far form the 12.0:1 mark.