break in/ tune???

[000triple000]

Hello everyone, I have a question, I just built a 2.3l stroker motor and it has only rouglhy 40 miles on it since io started breaking it in. The car runs but idle issue has accured also i did emissions delete so I have a couple questions real quick. 1 is can i get this car tuned or would it be a big waste of money?? and 2 is My car loves to idle at 2000 rpms everytime its started, then it goes back down after about 5 minutes which it will idle around 1000 for about 5 mins and then it does back up again??? any suggestions??? I can get a video of the car running if you guys need to see that just let me know and i will get a video. The car has a small crack in the manifold thats the only thing I can think of to why the car runs a little bit crappier.

 

[sniver]

Boost leak test.

As long as your running a maf it should be able to run the car good enough to get it broke in. What are you using to tune with? Stock injectors?

You should also check out your ISC for the roaming idle.

 

[Dhan]

Over the years, I've heard so many different theories and ideas behind motor break-in, I just play it safe and go easy on the engine within the first 500 miles and get a feel for how everything's working.

I've only rebuilt a handful of cars then actually been the one to drive them after the rebuild. In all instances, everything worked out fine. The definition of "going easy" differs between some, but as long as you're not on the track or redlining it endlessly, you should be all right.

Here's some reading on the subject.....http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...break-breaking-motor-break-merged-10-6-a.html

 

[000triple000]

here is my idliing problem. I starts out at 2000, warms up a bit then goes down to 1300rpm roughly then my car starts running a little bit richer and then it will idle about 1100rpms, then after about 5 mins or so the car will surge back up and idle around 2000rpms, I have teflon tapped all screws such as iac, the screw on the bottom of maf, i put plugs on the intake for emissions delete, chacked all vacuum lines, has new plugs and wires, The only thing that i know thats awrong is about an 1/8 to 1/4 crack in the manifold but thats it. Im uploading a video so you guys can see it. The car runs with the stock chip in, but the dsmlink v3 chip when installed the car will not turn on, but will turn over, I will get a datalog later on to show you guys.

Here is the video of the car start up. Let me know any problems you guys can see or hear or any coments. I'm always wanting to learn more. Please and Thank you..




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-yVDj-vKvg

 

[LiquidX]

Did you take the MAF screw out and put it back in? What injectors are your using and ECMLink is set to stock settings?

Did you mess with the BISS at all? What are the logged numbers for TPS voltage with the foot off the gas and with 100%throttle. That can be done with the car off.

Next what is the ISCposition when idling with a fully warmed up motor?

 

[000triple000]

alright I put the dsmlink chip back in and looked over some things and it actually started for the 1st time with dsmlink in. So how happy am I, very happy haha. I'm going to add a datalog of the car running with dsmlink, its start up which shows you the begining of the idle problem and also at the end of the datalog you will notice the rpms going back down. Can someone help me out and lok through the log and let me know if they see anything off key. I noticed my boostEST was only in -22 most of the time, so does that mean a boost leak??

 

[LiquidX]

1. Your narrow band o2 sensor isn't cycling which can cause some of the problems.
2. Your AirflowPerRev is way too high. It needs to be around 0.24-0.26 gm/rev on a 2.0L at a proper idle of 750-1000 RPM.
3. Have you tested for boost leaks at all?
4. BoostEst will not tell you if you have leaks or not, it's only an estimate based on calculation of airflow, RPM, and some others.

Can you get an idle log of the car fully warmed up?

 

[000triple000]

I have tried to test for boost leaks, and I have also check everything form turbo to intake and everything is tightly sealed and clamped etc. My boost leak tester was jsut so I have to make another one. But on the airflowperrev, I have the displacement set on 2.0l, if i change that to a 2.3l (which mine is) could that solve that problem. Also the oxygen sensor, I will buy a new o2 sensor I also have the one for the rear that I deleted. Can I get rid of a CEL via dsmlink??? Sry for all the questions.

 

[LiquidX]

For a stroker you should be about 0.28-0.32 IIRC. You can cross reverence the ECMLink Wiki for information as well.

Doing your testing, did you use soapy water and look for bubbles?

Under "ECU config" select the tab labeled "DTCs" and that tab will show you your CEL codes, OBD II readiness and enabled DTC checks.

Uncheck "Cat efficiency/O2" to remove the check for the rear o2 sensor. If you remove your emissions then uncheck "Evap/EGR/MDP".