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brakes went from wet cardboard to getting thrown thru the window.

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3kgt2nv

10+ Year Contributor
2,024
19
Jan 7, 2011
poughkeepsie, New York
so i have a 90 car with garbage calipers on it. I replaced the calipers and rebuilt a set of 3000gt Non turbo calipers and installed a set of slotted rotors with a set of pads. The brakes were still kind of blah so i decided to also upgrade the master. I used a 3g master which is larger that the 1g or 2g option and it doesnt require hoses for a remote mounted fluid canister.

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The braking now is amazing. It took a bit to get used to the brakes ability to stop the car.

All the info is available in the tech articles for this but i have to say that it is totally worth the money for anyone with the smaller front calipers to do this swap.
 

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I seriously need to do this, I did the dual piston upgrade and the pedal travel before it grabs sucks. Did you have to drain the brake lines before swapping the cylinders? The tech article is a little vague

I had prior to this had removed and inspected and painted the brake lines so they were bone dry. After everything was in place and fitted i removed the master and bench bled it then installed and vacuum bled all the lines.

i'm pretty sure the 3kgt 2 pot brakes are the same as the 2g gsx brakes. why did you go with 3kgt over 2g gsx?
I had them off a 3k i used to own so they were free. and they also didnt require the banjo bolts

what size master cylinder did you install?
you mentioned it's bigger then 1g or 2g but no size given...
just for this threads info it would help.
nice brakes btw.
i'll probably look into doing this now.

as stated i went with a 1 1/16 3g master with the fluid canister attached vs remote mounted.
 
I kept the stock booster, there is a write up for the 3g booster though. Only thing is you have to dent the strut tower to get it to fit and i didnt want to do that if i didnt have to.

Do you have a link to the write up showing the mod to the tower in order to fit the bigger booster? I was under the impression this was not necessary, I am currently running a brake booster from a galant vr4 that is quite bigger than the stock 1g and had no fitment problems. I'll have to compare sizes once I get back home.
 
Do you have a link to the write up showing the mod to the tower in order to fit the bigger booster? I was under the impression this was not necessary, I am currently running a brake booster from a galant vr4 that is quite bigger than the stock 1g and had no fitment problems. I'll have to compare sizes once I get back home.

I cant find the thread right now or it may have been in the brembo brake thread i cant remember now. but all the person did was slightly dent the rear of the strut tower because the booster wouldn't sit flat against the firewall otherwise. If i remember correct and im not sure I think they were using the 9 3/4 inch booster from a 3g.
 
i know its not going to do much but the rotors seem the wrong way for rotation, i believe the only ones that run grooved towards direction of travel are some brembo's, normally there all the other way to help throw off dirt and water
 
they are there to allow superheated gasses and brake dust to escape from between the pads and the rotors.
 
they are there to allow superheated gasses and brake dust to escape from between the pads and the rotors.

I know this haha, im saying there the wrong way around as the grooves shoud be goung from center to left and not center to right that way and debris and water that does make contact will be thrown out and not pushed into the center of the disc!
 
due to rotational inertia the directions of the slots shouldn't matter. As the speed of the rotor increases it will force the debris and gasses to the outside of the rotor
 
due to rotational inertia the directions of the slots shouldn't matter. As the speed of the rotor increases it will force the debris and gasses to the outside of the rotor

thats npt true they go through loads of testing to find the best way to get gasses and water etc out of the pads and rotor face and they design it around that aswell, only ones i know that have them that way are brembo! also if you run them backwards they can ruin pads and wear incorrectly on the rotor aswell, they really do matter but thats why they say L & R on them as they have made them specificity for them sides
 
It's really the vents on the inside of the rotors that matter when talking about mounting/rotation direction. The are designed (slanted in one direction) to draw in air while the rotors are turning to help cool them off. If they're mounted backwards the vents can't draw in air.
 
My power slots have slanted vents which are opposite of direction of travel but the slots in the rotors follow the direction of travel. This is how they said to install them.

thats what these are and they are installed to manufacturer directions. so im not worried about it to much.
 
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